I saw this fabric by Alexander Henry and just had to have it. It is a large print with a 24″ repeat and is full of vibrant colors. I knew I want to add a large star constructed from Star 60 & Quad 60 units.
I made 3″ finished Quad 60 and Star 60 units.
I thought I would incorporate this 12″ hexagon into my design as is.
But, I decided to add points turning it into a 24″ star by adding 6″ finished Quad 60’s for the points.
The photo’s above show how I made the 6″ hexagons and the 24″ star fit together.
Rainbow Forest, measure 64″ x 68″
Rainbow Forest is not yet quilted, but it will be soon.
I have been on a journey this year to see how many stars and shapes I can place in a One Block Wonder.
Timeless Treasures Last Dance
I found this great fabric from Timeless Treasures called “Last Dance”. The Skeletons are about 6 1/2″ tall.
Octagons
Last Dance made some great octagons. I wanted to add a bat in my design also.
Moonlight Flight
My friend and fellow Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Beth Sidley designs great patterns. I love Moonlight Flight and decided to use her bat for my quilt. You can purchase Moonlight Flight from her Etsy shop Park Bench Designs.
I love Josephine Wall’s art, her fabric panels are glorious. They make spectacular One Block Wonders.
Celestial Journey panel measures 35″ x 43″
These panels must have been either the beginning of the run or the last. The outer edges were off be about 1/2″. I focused on aligning the panels around the unicorn. The outer edges were mostly space so it was not crucial they be perfectly aligned. I cut my strips 3.75″ by WOF.
I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.
I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.
I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″
One day, several months ago I received a text from my sister Marti in Arizona. She frantically wanted to know how panels were needed for a One Block Wonder (OBW). I quickly answered “7” panels were needed. I thought she must have a found a fabulous panel to work with. Then about a week later I a received a package from Marti.
Spirit of Flight by Josephine Wall
Marti had sent me 7 panels by Josephine Wall & 3 Wishes. I was obsessed and couldn’t wait to make this panel into a OBW. Marti said this would be me when I emerged from breast cancer treatment. She was right!
Spirit of Flight measures 97″ x 71″
As I was working on this OBW I realized that most of the hexagons would be toward the back. I made these great stars using Studio 180 Design Star 60 Tool and the Framed 60 Technique Sheet to enhance my design. Now she is shooting for the stars and leaving cancer behind!
I’ve discovered a whole new way to jazz up my One Block Wonders (OBW)!
I pin my orphan blocks to the drop ceiling in my quilt studio. As I was looking up at them I realized that a Cyclone block could be added to a Octagon OBW! You only need the Cyclone Technique Sheet and a Tucker Trimmer I.
You can make this block in 9 sizes from 4″ to 12″. This block is fun and easy. You don’t have to match up seams!
My original Fabric, Lotus Leaves
I made my octagons 6″ finished, so I will follow the instructions for 6″ finished Cyclones. I chose 3 colors from my original fabric and cut my strip sizes according to the technique sheet.
sew strips together
Press seams open
Step 1 – Piece your strips together in the order shown on the technique sheet. Pressing the seams open gives you a flatter block in the end. Your strip set should measure the “Unfinished Strip Set Width” in the chart.
Step 2 – Sub-cut your strips sets into squares using the “Unfinished Set Width” from the chart. For 6″ finished block I cut my squares 4″.
Step 3 – Cut. Position your square so that Fabric 1 runs from north east to south west. Cut the square north to south. You will get two opposite triangles, separate them into two piles. Use extreme care when making these diagonal cuts. It will effect the spin of your block.
Step 4
Step 4 – Trim. Working with one one group at a time, position the triangle as above with the longest strip at the top of the triangle. Line up the edge of your Tucker Trimmer with the right side of the triangle, the the lower point of your triangle positioned at the number corresponding to your sub-cut size, for a 6″ finished block it is 4″. The lower left edge of the triangle should align with the sizing diagonal.
Step 4 cont.
Cut across the top of the tool.
Layout trimmed triangles
Step 5 – Lay out 8 of the kite shaped pieces that you just trimmed. Make sure that all of your pieces have the same fabric in the outer position.
Stitch pairs
Step 6 – Stitch two kite pieces together so that you create quadrants. Press seams open.
Trim
Step 7 – Trim. True the 90 degree corner using your Tucker Trimmer. Align the common diagonal with the seam and trim. You will only be trimming the dog ears and probably a few “whiskers” of fabric, just enough to ensure a true 90 degree.
Step 8 – Stitch together four like quadrants to create an oversized octagon. Press all seams open.
Pieced octagons
The cyclones are now the same size as my octagons made from the Lotus Leaves fabric, and you have two different cyclones from the same strip set. This is where we stop following the Cyclone Technique Sheet instructions. We will trim the cyclones when we trim the octagons.
Start to create your design layout, then add the corners to the octagons & cyclones.
You trim the cyclone block the same as the octagons but ONLY trimming the edges that will have corner stitched to them as with the octagon blocks.
Trimmed units
Cyclones Amongst the Lotus Leaves, measures 67″ x 73″.
Cyclone Wall Hanging
Click here for the supply list to make the wall hanging shown above.
Continuing my journey to create interesting embellishments for my hexagon and octagon One Block Wonders (OBW’s). I created fabulous stars using Studio 180 Design’s Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet and the Wedge Star Tool.
Flowers of the Sun by South Sea Imports
Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.
Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite
I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.
I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.
I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.
Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.
Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.
Make the first cut.
From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.
You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.
Pair a section “A” with a section “B”Mark seam intersection
Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.
Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.
StitchPress your seams open.
Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.
Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.
Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.
Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.
Diamond Four Patch Wedge18″ Diamond Star Wedge
Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.
Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.
As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.
I pulled this 2004 Alexander Henry fabric called Misty Jungle from my stash to play with adding Capped 60 cubes to my OBW.
Alexander Henry Misty Jungle
Although the fabric has a 24″ repeat the design elements were about 3 to 4 inches, so I decided to cut my strips 3 1/4″ to make 5″ finished hexagons. Using my Star 60 tool, I cut my equilateral triangles.
Once I designed my hexies to get an almost final design, It’s time to decide about cubes. I am using Deb Tucker’s Capped 60 Techniques Sheet. The Capped 60 Technique Sheet offers cutting instruction for 17 sizes in whole & half inch increments.
Capped 60 Unit
Above is a Capped 60 Unit. The cutting instructions are based on finished units. I cut my triangles for a 5″ finished hexagon, which would mean my individual triangles would measure 3″ unfinished and 2 1/2″ finished.
We begin by choosing 3 fabrics, light, medium and dark values. Where you place the light fabric gives the illusion of light shinning on it. The strips for both the trapezoids and triangles are the same width.
CuttingTrapezoids. I am making 2 1/2″ finished units so I cut 2″ strips and placed the 3 1/2″ Bottom Horizontal Line on the bottom of my strip to cut my trapezoids. Then rotate the Star 60 tool and place the 3 1/2″ line on the top of the strip and continue cutting trapezoids.
Cutting Triangles. Align the mark near the tip of the tool with the top of the strip and the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the width of the strip and cut. Rotate the Star 60 tool and continue cutting your triangles.
For each cubed hexagon you will need 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark trapezoids, and 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark triangles.
To make this cube begin by laying out your trapezoids and triangles shown above.
Align one edge of the triangle with the top of the trapezoid, matching the flat edge of the triangle to the top of the trapezoid as shown above.
Once you have laid out your trapezoids and triangles and know what triangles are to be stitched to what trapezoids you can chain stitch and make the process go fast.
Stitch and press seams open. Your unit consists of the Point, Left Side, Right Side and Base.
Trimming the Base. Position the unit so that the base is on the right if right handed or left if left handed. Align the Diamond Point Guideline that corresponds to the finished size of the unit on the seam between the triangle and trapezoid as shown. Trim the base along the side of the ruler.
Trimming the Right and/or Left Side. Locate the Triangle Point Trim Line in the chart for your size. Position the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the Triangle Point Trim Line on the seam between the trapezoid and triangle. Trim both sides.
Layout your trimmed units and stitch them into pairs of three as you do your equilateral triangles for the hexagons. Press seams open.
I chose to make Capped 60 Cubes in three color ways. I auditioned them in several places before deciding on the best placement.
Misty Jungle, OBW 83, measures 61″ x 62″
When I cut my strips for the hexagons I had 2 1/2″ left, not enough for the hexies. I decided to cut out smaller triangles to add to a border.
To give the illusion that the hexies are floating I added Half Hexies cut from the border fabric. The instructions for cutting Half Hexagons are located on page 10 of your Star 60 Instructions.
I just finished quilting “Lion Eyes” Octagonal One Block Wonder. I had 18 Sensational Squares sets left over.
Remember, Sensational Squares are the triangles that fill the space between the octagons.
I wanted to add the left over Sensational Squares to the borders of the quilt.
I made my Sensational Squares into Square/Squared units using my Studio 180 Design Square/Squared tool.
There are 3 parts to this tool.
TheCenter Square Section, which gives you a series of squares that are precisely drafted so that their diagonal measurement is exactly the finished size of the Square²™ unit.
The Trim Down Section gives you guide lines to align with the seams of the pieced Square²™ unit so you can trim each to a precise size with a proper ¼” seam allowance on all sides.
The Size Chart for Triangles gives the recommended size squares to cut that when cut in half diagonally will yield two slightly oversized triangles for constructing the unit.
Note: The fabric in the photo is different from the Lion Eyes.
Per my Wedge Star Instructions I had cut my Large Wedges from 4″ strips and my Corner Squares from 3″ strips (you must have at least 4 aligned repeats). Cut 3″ square sets.
Cut your square sets once diagonally.
Each stack of 4 half square triangles will give you one 4 Patch Posie.
Stitch 2 triangles together and press the seams the same way on both halves.
The seams will nest when stitching the halves together.
Swirl the seams and press.
Use your Square²™ ruler to precision cut your center squares from your 4 Patch Posie. I lined up the diagonal line on the tool with the diagonal seam centering the lines for a 4″ finished square making sure I had fabric to trim on all 4 sides. Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the unit lining up the just trimmed sides with the size lines and the diagonal line with the diagonal seam and trim up the side and across the top. The Square²™ unit looks great with a fussy cut square in the center or simply cut chosen fabric as usual. Just remember that this square will be diagonal in the pieced unit.
The 4 Patch Posie is now trimmed and ready for oversized triangles.
Check the chart on the Square/Squared Tool for strip size to cut squares for side triangles. I’m making 4″ finished units so I cut my strips from a folded strip 3 1/4″ wide.
Cut once diagonally.
Position two triangles on opposite sides of the center square. No need to fuss with matching the middles as the triangles are larger than they need to be. Just basically center them and try to keep the raw edges aligned.
Press seams away from the center square.
Position remaining two triangles on the remaining two sides of the center square. Again, don’t fuss too much with aligning the centers, just get them close. Stitch and press the triangles away from the center square.
Ready for the trim.
Position the Trim Down Section of the Square²™ ruler over the pieced unit. Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit over the sewn seams. If they do not line up exactly, simply center the ruler over the area by finding the middle ground of all four marks. Trim up the side and across the top. For the second cut, rotate the unit, position the ruler on top of unit again lining up the “X’s”, and also lining up the cleanup lines on the ruler with the edges previously trimmed.
This ensures that you end up with a square that has proper ¼” seams on all sides and is exactly the correct size to use in your quilt project. I added 1″ strips to two sides of the units to make the units measure 4 1/2″ by 6 1/2″. I did this so when I add the binding I won’t lose the points on my square/squared unit. Measuring the correct lengths I cut the 6 1/2″ strips to add to my border additions.
The Square/Squared tool makes finished diamond in square units in six sizes from 1″ to 6″. If you require mores sizes you can purchase the Large Square/Squared Tool which can make them in sizes from 1″ to 12″.
The official name for this quilt is Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty. This quilt was made with love for my Granddaughter Sam. It was supposed to be finished for Christmas but it is in time for my special Valentine.
Panel by Chong-A-Hwang for Timeless Treasures
Why did I choose 5.5″ Finished Hexagons?
This panel measured 23 inches wide. I chose 5.5″ (Cut my strips 3.5″) finished hexies because 4 X 5.5 = 22″. Now I only have trim 1/2″ from both sides and my hexies will fit along the bottom and the top of the panel.
I began by deciding on what size to make my star. I wanted it twice as big as my 5.5″ finished hexies, hmmm, that means an 11″ finished star. The Checkerboard Technique sheet makes beautiful stars in 17 sizes from 2″ up to 18″ in 1″ increments. I needed to make 5.5″ Finished units. I followed technique sheet instructions for a 6″ Finished Units and will trim them so they would finish at 5.5″ units.
Step 1 – Make two strip sets.
Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other right sides down. Using the Star 60 tool and a regular ruler establish the 60 degree angle.
From the first cut, cut additional angled sections the same width as the as the cut size of the diamond strips.
Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure the inner and outer diamonds are oriented correctly. The pink diamonds will be the inner part of my star. The outer diamonds are yellow.
Mark 1/4″ seam allowance using the Magic Wand.
On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams on the wrong side.
Pin section A & B
Stitch your section “A” with Section “B” units.
Press the seams open.
Step 4 – Trim the outer diamond using the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the Outer Diamond Trim Guidelines for a 5″ finished unit.
First cut.
Continue cutting side triangles.
Step 5 – Add the side triangles.
Layout the right side triangles.
Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.
Stitch with the diamond on top.
Press toward the diamond. (Whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)
Layout the left side triangle.
Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.
After it is stitched, but before you press, trim the unit as shown above to remove bulk.
Press toward the side triangle.
Step 6 – Trim the pieced Star 60 unit suing the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the 5″ finished unit guidelines.
Step 7 – Describes the trimming the final edge. I did not complete this trim. Remember, I need an 11″ finished star, which means I need 5.5″ finished units. I accomplished this by trimming the diamonds per the 5″ guidelines. I created an 11″ finished star by NOT trimming the outer edges of the star.
Layout your diamond units.
Stitch your diamond units together creating two halves.
Making Star 60’s – To make 5.5″ finished Stars, I am following the cutting instructions for 3″ Finished Units. Remember, the chart refers to UNITS not to Finished Stars! To use the chart, first determine the desired finished size of your unit, then follow the row across for the strip size for the shape you want to cut.
Cutting the Diamonds – I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units. Trim one short edge at a 60 degree angle as shown above. Locate the Diamond Sub-Cut Guideline in the chart which for 3″ finished units is 4″. Align those guidelines with the raw edges of the strip and the angled cut just made as shown in the diagram. Cut along the leading edge of the tool to create oversized diamond shapes.
Cut your side triangles. For 3″ finished units the side triangle strips are 2 1/2″.
Layout the right side triangle.
Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.
Stitch with the diamond on top.
Press toward the Diamond. Layout the remaining side triangle.
Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.
Trim the bulk as shown above.
Press toward the side triangle.
I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units, BUT I’m making 5.5″ finished stars, so I’m trimming the Diamond Point using the 2 1/2″ guidelines. I do not trim the outer edges of the unit to obtain a 5.5″ finished star.
Star 60 Units
Stitch units into two halves.
Designing With the Hexagons
The final layout
After I numbered my rows, I stitched the four rows above the checkerboard star into two rows, and the same with the four rows under the checkerboard star as shown in photo 1. Photo 2 shows stitching the top and bottom row to the checkerboard star halves. Photo 3 shows the two rows joined together.
Continue to stitch rows into 4 sections, Left, Right, Top & Bottom.
I placed the bottom section right sides together to verify how much I need to trim off the sides of the panel so it will be the same width as the top and bottom hexies. In this case I trimmed 1/2″ off both sides.
You can choose to attach either the top or bottom hexies first. I chose the bottom because I wanted to control where the hexies attached to the bottom of the panel. After the hexies are laid out and stitched together we loose 1/4″ between them. I felt I could safely loose a couple of inches off the top of the panel without affecting the design. But I did not want to loose inches off the panel bottom.
I pressed the bottom hexies under 1/4″ and top stitched them to the panel.
Match up the hexies/dog ears of the left side with hexies/dog ears on the bottom. Stitch leaving about 12″ from the top of the panel.
Place the panel and partially stitched left side on a table and place the top hexies on top of the panel matching up the dog ears to establish where the top hexies will be stitched to the panel.
Pin top to the panel being sure the dog ears match up to the left side hexies.
Top Stitch the top hexies to the panel. Finish stitching the left side to the panel and top hexies.
Match up the dog ears of the right side and stitch.
Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty, measures 75″ X 70″. I will quilt it as soon as the backing arrives.
If These Threads Could Talk 