Prism

Northcott Logo The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Northcott.

I have been chosen to participate in Northcott’s Creative Club.  If you have not used Northcott fabrics before you will be pleasantly surprised.  Just like their logo says “Cottons that feel like Silk”!

I chose to make Prism, a pattern created by Pam Goggans of Sager Creek Quilts.  Prism is a companion pattern for the Studio 180 Design Split Rects Tool.

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One of my favorite Disney movies is “Pollyanna”.  Remember this scene when they discover “rainbow makers”?  I do, and that is the inspiration for my version of Prism.

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My fabrics are from Artisan Spirit Shimmer By Deborah Edwards Northcott Studio.  Aren’t they just yummy, looks like a rainbow to me!

I am a purveyor of paper plates!  I use them to stay organized throughout the quilt making process.  I cut everything out but the borders (I save that till the end so I can verify my measurements) and place them on their labeled paper plate.  I can stack them up in a tub or place them in gallon size storage bags when I’m not working on them.

Split Rects Units

To make mirror image split rects units, lay the fabric strip “right sides together OR wrong sides together.  Position the ruler on the strip with the broad black line against the trimmed end of the strip and the desired finished size guide and trim along the slanted edge.  For the second cut, rotate the tool one half turn and align the small second trim “nub” line on the long edge of the strip and the “Second Trim” guide along the just-trimmed edge.  Trim along the straight edge of the tool.

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I am right handed, so my strips are placed horizontally and I cut from left to right.  Left hander’s would place their strips vertically.  See tool instructions for complete left handed cutting.

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Continue to cut all the pieces for the split rects units.

Lay out the pieces as they will be stitched together.  Stitch the elongated triangles by placing them right sides together with the long, bias edge of the pieces aligned.  Center the two pieces with just a bit of overlap at the ends.

Press the seams either toward the darker fabric or open.  As you can see I press mine open.

Align either the “Common Diagonal” or the “Size Diagonal” with the seam you have sewn.  These will vary depending on the slant of the seam in your unit.  Check to make sure that the fabric unit is completely contained within the trim down lines.  For right hander’s trim up the side and across the top.

Rotate the unit and reposition the tool on top.  Align the correct  “Cut Size” measurement with the trimmed corner and the same diagonal line used in the first trim.  Trim the remaining two edges of the unit.

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Above I have laid out my trimmed mirror image split rects units.

Double Split Rects Units

After trimming the split rects units to the correct “Cut Size” choose 24 mirror image units to make special Double Split Rects!

According to pattern instructions trim away the excess of the colored triangle.  Make sure to position the left leaning units right side up and the right leaning units right side down.

Using the Split Rects Tool, cut triangles from the accent fabric according to pattern instructions.img_6058

Lay out the trimmed units and the replacement triangles.

Stitch the dark triangles to the trimmed units.  I press my seams open.

Trim as before.  Place right leaning unit right side up and left leaning unit wrong side up.

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I laid out my units on the design wall, and then I noticed two units were missing!  Tucker my Chihuahua decided I had ignored her long enough.  This is her way getting my attention.  I found the units upstairs by a guilty grinning Tucker!

I stitched the units for the quilt center together and then added the borders.  The secret to this quilt is to use your best accurate 1/4″ seam!

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I quilted Prism with a meandering stitch.  (All that meander are not lost.)

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The Northcott Artisan Spirit Shimmer fabric line was perfect for this quilt!  I love it!

Even the quilt back is beautiful Northcott fabric!

I used Quilter’s Dream Blend Batting, and I do all my piecing with Aurifil thread!

Vintage Quilts Inspiring New Creations

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The April challenge for the Island Batik Ambassador’s is to “Look Back” and get inspired!  Not a problem for me.  My inspiration stems from the Hunter Star quilt.  This quilt is on many quilter’s bucket lists.   The quilt shown below represents a traditional hunter star layout.img_5895

I love Deb Tucker’s Rapid Fire Hunter Star tools.  Once you learn the Rapid Fire Process you will be able to make any version of the Hunter Star Quilt.  I went to Deb Tucker’s new book “Hunter Star Royal Treasures” for my inspiration.  This book contains 40 different king & queen size hunter star layouts, including one from me “Waves of Joy”.  But what got my attention were the “Alternative” layouts.  Wow what a difference a little change can make.  Instead of the traditional piecing of the dark trapezoid to the dark triangle or a light trapezoid to a light triangle, do the reverse and piece a dark trapezoid to a light triangle and vice versa.

I chose “Baths of Tortola”, designed & pieced by Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Heidi Chase (Running With Scissors Quilters).  Heidi’s quilt is a queen size, 8 x 10 block layout, made with the Large Hunter Star tool & 9″ finished blocks.  (The photo on the left of my smaller version of Baths of Tortola (50″x60″) was taken on one of the many trees we lost during one of the many nor’easters this winter.)

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I wanted to make a smaller quilt, so I pulled out my Petite Hunter Star tool, and my Field Guide. This fabulous little book gave me the fabric requirements for a 5″ Hunter Star Petite, 8 by 10 block layout in a two color option. Sweeeet!  This book gives you yardage requirements and cutting instructions for 213 projects in 2, 3 & 4 color options for 5″, 6″ 7″ and 8″ block sizes from wall hanging to king size projects.

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I pulled my  Crystal Cove Water Aqua & Cotton Egg-white Island Batik fabric choices from my stash.

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I start by cutting my triangle, star point & trapezoid strips in both colors.

From my 5″ triangle strips I cut 5″ squares and cut them once diagonally and set them aside for later.

As a righty, I lay my trapezoid strip horizontally on my cutting mat with the selvedges to the left. (Left handed cutting options are included in the tool instructions.)  The strip can be either right or wrong sides together.   I’m making 5″ finished blocks so I place the 5″ line on my hunter star tool on the bottom of the strip and begin cutting my trapezoids for both colors.

I cut my star point strips in half and divide them into 4 piles.  The two aqua piles will be the star points on both ends of the light trapezoids and the two light piles will be the star points on both ends of the aqua trapezoids.   Begin by positioning the trapezoids right sides together with the star point strip, staggering down from the top 2 1/4″, spacing the trapezoids about 1/4″ apart and stitch.  The hunter star tool instructions give detailed guidance. 

Once the trapezoids are stitched to the star point strip, place the strip set on the ironing board with star strip on the bottom and the trapezoids on top and carefully press as shown.  Lay the strip vertically on the cutting mat and trim using the Hunter Star tool.

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I now have an oversized star point on one end of my trapezoid.  This time I add my trapezoids starting from the bottom and spacing them about 1/4″ apart and stitch them.  Lay the strip on the ironing board with the trapezoids on the bottom and the star strip on top and carefully press toward the star strip.  (Remember: whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

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Lay the strip horizontally on the cutting mat and trim according to the instructions.  Repeat this process for both colors.

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The light and the aqua trapezoids have oversized star points on each end.  One of Deb Tucker’s great tips is to lay about 5 strips of painter’s tape layered on top of each other on your cutting mat.  Trim off a little on one side evening up the edges.  Peel up the tape and place it on ruler line to aid in making repetitive cuts. Our trapezoids were precision cut from 1 3/4″ strips. By placing the built up tape edge on the 1 3/4″ line it will make it much easier to trim the sewn units to 1 3/4″.  Trim all the units.

Each hunter star block contains 2 triangles, 2 trapezoids & 4 star points.  Remember, we are breaking the rules by centering and stitching a light trapezoid to a dark triangle & a dark trapezoid to a light triangle.

Match the triangle halves, nest the seams and stitch.  Press the diagonal seam open.

Carefully align the center line of the tool with the center seam of the block. Carefully aligning the diamonds on the tool with the seam lines of the diamonds on the pieced block, trim up the right side and across the top.  Lift the tool and rotate the block and carefully trim the other two sides, using the dashed lines along the side of the tool on the previously trimmed edges.  Trim all the blocks to the cut size.

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Layout the blocks and stitch them together into rows.  I added 5″ borders.

I Loaded it onto the quilt frame and started meandering.  Just remember, “All that Meander are Not Lost”!  I bought Jamie Wallen’s wonderful quilting tools, but I haven’t learned to use them yet! (As you can see, they are still in the original packaging, sigh.)

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This is definitely NOT your grandmother’s Hunter Star Quilt!

#islandbatikambassador  #Islandbatik  #iheartislandbatik

Scrapodopolis – BlockBuster’s #1 – #9

I just finished my quilt containing Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster patterns #1 through #9!  Scrapodopolis seems like a pretty good name.

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I used the Tucker trimmer 1, Wing Clipper 1, Square/Squared, V Block & Four Patch Square up tools from Studio 180 Design.  I was encouraged by fellow Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer to try a block layout a little outside the box, and I totally did!

01 Layout

This is the layout I chose.  I did change it up a little.

02 Square Squared

My blocks are 12″ when finished.  that indicated that my Square/Squared units would finish at 6″.  I Needed 16 square/squared units and decided the center squares would be cut from 16 different fabric pulled from the blocks & the side triangles would be the same background fabric used in the blocks.  The 3″ rectangles on either side of the square/squared units would match the border fabric.  The outer borders would finish at 6″ also.  I added a 3″ border outer border to enhance the four square/squared units in the border.

03 dont do this

Don’t do what I did.  I started in the center and stitched the outer square/squared units to the center blocks, (they had to be un-sewed and sewn to the borders pieces). In each of the corners, I stitched a 12″ block to a square/squared unit & stitched a square/squared unit to a 6.5″ square and then stitched it to the block.  The two blocks on either side of the center were stitched to a square/squared unit

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This is much better. Now there are 3 rows of blocks in the center ready to be stitched together & the border square/squared units are pieced to the border strips.

Once all the pieces were stitched together I decided I needed to add a 3″ outer border so all the units appear to be floating.

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I am so pleased with how it came out!  My finished quilt measures 67″ x 67″.

10 a different view

I can’t wait to start the next quilt with BlockBuster  #10!

BlockBuster #9 – Three In One

This block requires your Tucker Trimmer I and V Block tools.  BlockBuster 09 Three in One provides 3 different possible block layouts.  The block is made up of V Block, Combination & Quarter Square Triangle units.  I’m making Block 1 as a 12″ block, with 4″ finished units.

BlockBuster 9 blocks

All of the units in these three blocks are the same (and placed in the same location), yet just by rotating the units and changing your fabric placement, you’ll get three very different blocks.

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These are my fabric choices.  I will be making Block 1.  I decided where I wanted my fabrics in the block by looking at the colors in block 1 and assigned my fabric choice for the units.

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I need four V Block units with the center triangle cut from the background fabric and the side triangles cut from each of my four fabric colors.  For a 4″ finished unit I cut a 5″ WOF strip of the background and each of the four fabric color groups.  (check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions and on the tool itself.)

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The center unit is a Quarter Square Triangle made from each of the four fabrics.  I cut a 5 1/2″ square from each of my four fabrics. ( Check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions.)

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The corner units are Combination Units.  Each combo unit is made from fabrics that match the side triangles on either side of the V Block units and the background fabric. Cut 2 each 5 1/2″ squares from each of the four fabrics and four 5 1/2″ squares from the background fabric.

V Bock Units

Everything you need to know for making V Block units is in the tool instructions.  I’m starting with the V Block center triangles.  To cut the center triangles, layer no more than two layers deep.  Fold the ends deep enough to accommodate the slanted cut for a 4″ finished unit and finger press it.

Position the tool on the strip so that the dashed line labeled “Fold Line for Center Triangle” is aligned with the fold and the correct size line of the tool is against the bottom edge of the strip. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool and unfold to reveal the center triangle pieces.

Move the cut triangles to the side and flip the strip over from top to bottom.  Align the center triangle trim line with the previously trimmed edge and cut your next pair of center triangles.  For this block you need four center triangles.

For the Side triangles. place the strips facing each other, either right sides or wrong sides together on the cutting mat.  Locate the bold solid line on the tool that reads “Cut Line for Side Triangles”.  Position that line against the trimmed end of the strip and the proper size line against the bottom of the strip.  Trim along the slanted edge of the tool. 

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Cut one set from each of the four fabrics. 

Lay out the V Block units, making sure you are lining up the long edge of the side triangles with the edges of the center triangle.  Position pieces right sides together lining up the slanted cut edges “tip to tip” and stitch one side triangle to the unit. Press toward the side triangle.  Position second triangle, stitch & press as shown.  Repeat with the other V Blocks.

Lay the V Block unit on the cutting mat with “V” pointing toward you.  Lay the tool on the unit aligning the “Finished Size” measurement with the seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top.  (For left hand cutting directions see tool instructions.)

Lift the tool and rotate the unit. Reposition the tool on top aligning the correct “Cut Size” measurements with the previously trimmed corner and “X” with the sewn seam intersection.  Trim up the right side across the top.

Quarter Square Triangle – Center Unit

Check the Size Cutting Chart to determine size of the starter squares.  For 4″ finished units cut one 5 1/2″ square from each of the four colors.  Make half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of 2 of the fabric squares with your Magic Wand, stitch on the lines and cut apart.  Press seams toward the darker fabric.  Do Not Trim. Check your fabric placement choices to determine which fabrics to make HST’s out of.

Note:  When making half square triangles, combination units and quarter square triangles, you will be making two units at a time.  You can make two blocks or save the units for something later.

On the back of one of the HST’s, use your Magic Wand  and mark two diagonal lines. Position the HST units right sides together, carefully nesting the sewn seams.   Stitch on the lines, cut apart and press swirling the center.

Position your Tucker Trimmer over the pieced unit. Carefully align both the common diagonal and the size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Lift the Tucker Trimmer tool and rotate the unit.  This time be sure to position both the common diagonal, the size diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement desired. Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top.

Combination Units

Check you fabric placement choice to group your fabrics for making the combo units.  There are three 5 1/2″ squares (one background & 2 darker fabrics) for each combo unit.  Start by making half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of one of the darker fabric squares and placing it right sides together with the other dark fabric square.  Stitch on the lines and cut apart and press.  Do Not Trim.  Do this for each color group.

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Mark two diagonal lines on the back of one HST. Place one HST on one background square centering it and stitch on the lines.

Cut apart and press toward the large triangle.  When you make combination units with this process, you are making mirror image  combo units.  You will only need one set of combo units for one block.  Deb Tucker has a Non Mirror Combo Technique Sheet that shows you how to make only the combo units you need.

Position the Tucker trimmer over the unit, carefully aligning both the common diagonal and the size diagonal with the stitched seams.  Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top.  Lift the tool and rotate the unit.  This time line up both diagonal lines and the outline to the exact measurement desired and trim as before.

Lay out your units and stitch into rows, pressing as shown.

Stitch your rows to make your block.  I now have BlockBuster’s #1 – #9 completed!  Time to make a quilt!

BlockBuster #8 54-40 or Fight

BlockBuster # 08 54 – 40 or Fight is a fun & easy block.  It requires Deb Tucker’s  V Block tool.  This block also has four patch units, which you can make by cutting individual squares.  I made my four patch units by using Deb’s Tucker’s new Four Patch Square Up tool.  The cutting chart gives you options for making a 6″, 9″ or 12″ block.  I made a 12″ block.

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I chose the 3 fabric colors shown above.

V Block Units

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Everything you need to know for making V Block’s is in the tool instructions.  I’m starting with the V Block center triangles, I chose a dark fabric for my star.  For a 12″ block the cut size of my units will be 4 1/2″.  The  Size chart and/or the tool itself tells me that for a 4″ finished unit, I need to cut a 5″ strip.  To cut the center triangles, layer no more than two layers deep.  Fold the ends deep enough to accommodate the slanted cut for a 4″ finished unit and finger press it.

Position the tool on the strip so that the dashed line labeled “Fold Line for Center Triangle” is aligned with the fold and the correct size line of the tool is against the bottom edge of the strip.

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Trim along the slanted edge of the tool and unfold to reveal the center triangle pieces.

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Move the cut triangles to the side and flip the strip over from top to bottom.  Align the center triangle trim line with the previously trimmed edge and cut your next pair of center triangles.  For this block you need four center triangles.

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Place the strips facing each other, either right sides or wrong side together on the cutting mat.  Locate the bold solid line on the tool that reads “Cut Line for Side Triangles”.  Position that line against the trimmed end of the strip and the proper size line against the bottom of the strip.  Trim along the slanted edge of the tool.

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To make the next cut, keep the fabric in the same position on the mat and rotate the tool as shown above and cut.  Rotate the tool back to the first position and cut again.  You will need four mirror image sets of side triangles for this block.

Lay out the V Block units, making sure you are lining up the long edge of the side triangles with the edges of the center triangle.  To sew position pieces right sides together lining up the slanted cut edges “tip to tip” and chain stitch one side triangle to each unit.

Press all seams toward the side triangles.

Position the second side triangles and stitch onto each unit as before.

Have you ever tried to sew with a Chihuahua on your lap?  I don’t recommend it.

 

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Press toward the side triangle.  Lay the V Block unit on the cutting mat with “V” pointing toward you.  Lay the tool on the unit aligning the “Finished Size” measurement with the seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top.  (For left hand cutting directions see tool instructions.)

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Lift the tool and rotate the unit. Reposition the tool on top aligning the correct “Cut Size” measurements with the previously trimmed corner and “X” with the sewn seam intersection.  Trim up the right side across the top.

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Trim all four V Block units.  Remember for more help, there are free video’s for each of Deb’s tools at Studio 180 Design.

Four Patch Units

I love Deb Tucker’s new Four Patch Square Up tool, because four patch units are easy to make, so I save them for last.  By then I’m tired and my brains have fallen on the floor somewhere.  I know for this block I need four 4″ finished four patch units.  I simply go to the size cutting chart that came with the tool.  I cut one WOF 2 3/4″ strip from each of my two color choices.  Position the strips right sides together and stitch them together along the long edge.  Cut the sewn strips in half crosswise and press toward the darker fabric.  Reverse one half of the strip over the other so each color is opposite the other color.  Nest the seams well.

Sub-cut into units the same size as the width that you cut  the strips.  In this case my strips were 2 3/4″ wide.  Chain stitch down the long side of the layered pair.

Swirl the centers and press.

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Locate the desired Finished Size circle on your Four Patch Square Up tool and position this circle over the seam intersection of your four patch unit.  Line up the dashed lines radiating from the center with your seams.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Lift the tool and rotate the unit.  Realign the finished size circle with the center and the dashed lines with the seams.  Also make sure the outside trimmed edges of the unit are aligned with the solid cut size clean up lines.  Trim up the right side and across the top, and presto you have a beautiful perfectly square Four Patch unit!

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Cut a 4 1/2″ center square that matches your star points.  Lay out your V Block and four patch units.

Sew the units into rows and press as shown.  Join the rows, stitch and press away from the center.

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Check out the other color options on the supply list.  One more BlockBuster block and I will put together my sampler quilt.

What a Big Pin Cushion You Have My Dear!

The March Island Batik Challenge is to try a technique that is new to me.  As a person totally addicted to all things quilting I was having a hard time coming up with an idea.

Try a Technique

Early in February I was at a quilt retreat with gal pals at Needle in a Haystack Retreat Center in Findley Lake, NY (fabulous retreat center).  In their fabric store I spotted something high on a shelf.

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I asked “is that a mini tuffet kit”?  the answer was “yes”.  “What would you do with a 8″ tuffet” I asked?  She said “it could be for an American Girl Doll”.  Then it struck me….it could be a pin cushion on steroids!  I have never tried to make a tuffet before, so that was my choice for “try a technique new to me!!!

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I had these beautiful 2.5″ inch strips from Island Batik’s “Spoolin Around” collection.  I love how accurate and clean the edges are on Island Batik pre-cuts!

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First task was to staple the batting around the foam, to round the edges and attach it to the wooden base.  I’m already in trouble because apparently I tugged too hard on the batting, more about that later.

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I had to pick 9 strips, trim them to 1.25″ wide, and sew them together pressing the seams open.  So far so good.

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Cut them into four units 9.5″ wide.

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Sew the four units together forming a tube.  Here is where things start to go astray.  I placed the form into the tube to check on the fit.  It seemed a little loose to me.  I guess I tugged too hard on the batting when stapling it to the wooden base.

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Next I had to zig-zag a gathering cord on both ends of the tube.  My computerized sewing machine couldn’t handle the job so I had to break out “Libby” my Free-Westinghouse, 60’s era sewing machine to get the job done!  This was the hardest part to accomplish, many expletives were flying around Tuckerville!

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First attempt showed that the tube was way too big.  I had to remove 2 strips to make it smaller, (again, I tugged too hard on the batting while stapling it to the wooden base)!  I don’t think mine looks anything like the pictures in the instructions.

Tuffet Source

I don’t know how they got theirs so smooth!  I used a glue gun to attached the button and cover the bottom.  I got glue every where, not to mention burns from dripping it on my fingers.

Tucker is not sure what to think of it.

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I think I would rather make a King Size quilt than make another tuffet!  But I will smile every time I look at it, and aren’t the colors lovely?

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Mini Love

As an Island Batik Ambassador the products featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Do you like mini quilts?  Part two of Island Batik’s Ambassador February assignment was to make a mini quilt 24″ square or smaller.  I chose a simple block.

I used Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk & Mini Flower Carnation Pink, plus 2 fat quarters from  the Galentine Day Bundle, one red for the star points and another red for the border.

24 Block front

I decided to make 4 blocks.  Each block has a center square, 4 two color quarter square triangles for the star points and 4 half square triangles.  My block units are 2 1/2″ finished, and the block measures 7 1/2″ finished.  I decided to start with the half square triangles (HST).  For four blocks I would need 16 HST.  With my Tucker Trimmer I,  I can make two at a time.  Deb Tucker has a new Technique Sheet called “Eight at Once”.  This technique sheet has a chart that gives you the fabric requirements for oversized HST in 11 sizes.  For 16 – 2 1/2″ finished HST I would need two 7″ squares of the Mini Flower Carnation Pink and two 7″ squares of Neutral Buttermilk.

03 layer

 

Using my Magic Wand, draw diagonal lines on the wrong side of the lightest fabric.  I also marked the vertical halfway mark & the horizontal halfway mark.

02 Mark

Stitch on all four diagonal lines only.

First trim  the vertical halfway mark & then the horizontal halfway mark.  Then trim in between the stitched diagonal lines. And, all at once you’ve got 8 HST.

06 Press

Press toward the pink.  Do you know that “what ever you are pressing toward…goes on top”?  That means lay your units with pink fabric on top.  Set your seams, then push over the pink fabric and press.

Lay your unit on the cutting mat.  We always trim our units to the cut size.  My units are 2 1/2″ finished, that means the cut size is 3″.  Find the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer, align the 3″ diagonal line on the HST’s diagonal line and center it.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Rotate the unit, align the just trimmed edge with the 3″ clean up line, again align the 3″ diagonal, trim up the right side and across the top.  If you are left-handed, position your unit to the left and the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer would be positioned to the left also. You woud trim up the left side and across the top.

Now we will make our Quarter Square Triangles (QST).  I check the chart in my Tucker Trimmer instructions.  For 2 1/2″ finished units, my starter squares should be 4″.  For all four blocks I need Eight Red 4″ squares & Eight Pink 4″ squares.  Using my Magic wand I draw 2 diagonal lines on each pink square.  Layer one pink square with one red square aligning the raw edges.  Stitch on both diagonal lines and cut apart.

We are going to press toward the red , so lay your units red side up and press as before.  Divide your HST’s into two even piles.  Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines as shown above on half of your HST’s.

Position one HST marked with the stitch lines with a HST without the stitching lines, right side together, and opposite colors facing each other.  Align and nest the center seams.

Stitch on the lines and cut apart.  Swirl the center as shown above and press.

Position the Tucker Trimmer over the pieced square.  Carefully align both the common diagonal and the 3″ size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Rotate the unit, line up the Tucker trimmer again.  This time be sure to position both the diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement of 3″, trim up the right side and across the top.

Cut four 3″ red squares for the block centers.  Lay out the block as shown above.

Stitch the units into rows, press the seam as shown.

Stitch the rows together and press as shown.

Make all four blocks.  I added sashing.  I cut two 1 1/2″ x 8″ strips and joined the two blocks on top row, and then the two blocks on the bottom row.  I cut three strips 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″.  I joined the top row to the bottom row and added a strip on either side of the square.  Cut two strips 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ for the top and bottom of the square.  Note:  Always measure your blocks for accurate sashing measurements.  

From another Galentine Day fat quarter  I cut 3″ outer borders.  I finished it with my Hobbs Cotton Batting.  I stitched in the ditch and bound it with some Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk.  It was pieced & quilted with Aurifil Mako 50 thread.

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This is a sweet simple quilt.  Reminds me of Forest Gump, “Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get”, these blocks look like nicely wrapped chocolates.  Happy February!