Journeys Month 12 – Quilt Assembly

Welcome, Welcome, Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journey’s BOM – Month 12! This has been a spectacular year. You all have worked so hard. Thank you to Deb Luttrell, Founder of Stitchin Heaven, Deb Tucker, Creative Kingpin of Studio 180 Design, Marie Bostwick New York Times best selling author and Jason Yenter Fabric Designer & President of In the Beginning Fabrics for making this all possible. Now to assemble your quilts!

Note: WOF stands for width of fabric. This month you will assemble your quilt top and add the borders.

Gather the following pieces:

4 Corner Sections from Month 6

Block K from Month 7

4 Middle Edge Sections from Month 9

4 Pieced Border sections from Month 11

Finishing Instructions

Step 1 – Lay out the Corner Sections, Middle Edge Sections, and Block K as shown in the diagram on page 35.

Step 2 – Stitch the sections together into rows, press the seams open. Stitch the rows together to create the quilt center.

Step 3 – Attach the 72½” Print 11 inner border strips. Find the center of the quilt and the center of the 72½” border strip. Match the center points with right sides together, pin. Match both ends of the strip with the ends of the quilt and pin in place. Ease the quilt top to match the border strip and add more pins between the others to hold the border in place as you stitch. Attach the other 72½” border to the opposite side in the same manner and press toward the inner border strip.

Step 4 – Repeat step 3 for the 75½” Print 11 border strips.

Step 5 – Attach the 75½” Print 6 middle border strips. Using two of the border strips, stitch them to the quilt in the same manner as in step 3. Press toward Print 6.

Step 6 – Stitch a Print 4 middle border corner stone to each end of the remining 2”x 75½” Print 6 borders. Press toward the middle border.

Step 7 – Attach the remining two middle border strips to the quilt as described in step 3. Make sure to nest the seams. Press toward the middle border.

Step 8 – Add the pieced borders. Start with the borders that do not have the N Units on the ends. Orient the pieced borders so that the Corner Pops are against the middle border and the points of the V Blocks are pointing away from the quilt center. Refer to the diagram. Find the center of the quilt top and the center of the pieced border. Match the centers and pin. Match each end and pin. Ease the border to match the quilt top and add more pins between the others to hold the border in place as you stitch. Stitch in place. Press toward the middle border.

Step 9 – Repeat step 8 for the other pieced borders with the N Units attached to the ends. After you have matched the centers and the ends, make sure that you nest the Corner Beam seam with the seam attaching the pieced border.

Note: We recommend that you wait to cut your outer borders to length until you can measure your quilt top. To determine your specific border length, measure the longest side of your quilt in three different places. If those measurements are different, add the three measurements together and divide by three. That will be the length that you need to cut your first two borders. Once the first two borders are attached to the quilt repeat the process for the remaining two sides.

Step 10 – Add the outer borders. Find the center of the quilt and the center of the 90½” outer border strip. Match the center points with right sides together, pin, match either end of the strip with the ends of the quilt, and pin in place. Add more pins between the others, about every 4”, to hold the border in place as you stitch. Attach the other 90½” border to the opposite side in the same manner and press toward the outer border strip.

Step 11 – Repeat step 10 for the 102½” outer border strips.

Step 12 – Finish with Batting, Backing, Quilting, and Binding! Layer quilt top with batting and backing. Baste and quilt. Bind and Enjoy!

Thank you all so much for joining us on this Journey! Congratulations on a job well done!

Celestial Journey – OBW # 88

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I love Josephine Wall’s art, her fabric panels are glorious. They make spectacular One Block Wonders.

Celestial Journey panel measures 35″ x 43″

These panels must have been either the beginning of the run or the last. The outer edges were off be about 1/2″. I focused on aligning the panels around the unicorn. The outer edges were mostly space so it was not crucial they be perfectly aligned. I cut my strips 3.75″ by WOF.

I wanted to give my travelers a destination. I created a nearby galaxy for them consisting of stars created using my Star 60 Tool and 5 technique sheets: Quad 60, Framed 60, Striped 60, Checkerboard 60, Capped 60.

#studio180design #Star60 #Quad60 #Framed60, #Striped60 #Checkerboard60 #Capped60 #QuiltersDreamBatting #Bernina740

Journeys Month 11 – Victory Block: Part 2

DreamScapes – OBW #87 & Quad 60

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I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.

I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.

I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″

#studio180design #DebTucker #Star60 #Quad60 #Northcottfabrics #Quiltersdreambatting #Irakennedy

Spirit of Flight – OBW #86

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One day, several months ago I received a text from my sister Marti in Arizona. She frantically wanted to know how panels were needed for a One Block Wonder (OBW). I quickly answered “7” panels were needed. I thought she must have a found a fabulous panel to work with. Then about a week later I a received a package from Marti.

Marti had sent me 7 panels by Josephine Wall & 3 Wishes. I was obsessed and couldn’t wait to make this panel into a OBW. Marti said this would be me when I emerged from breast cancer treatment. She was right!

As I was working on this OBW I realized that most of the hexagons would be toward the back. I made these great stars using Studio 180 Design Star 60 Tool and the Framed 60 Technique Sheet to enhance my design. Now she is shooting for the stars and leaving cancer behind!

#studio180design #star60 #framed60 #3wishesfabric #josephinewall #Bernia #Nolting #Quiltersdreambatting

Journeys Month 10 – Victory Block: Part 1

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Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM – Month 10 Victory Block: Part 1. This month you will be using Studio 180 Design V Block tool. Sarah Furrer is my helper this month.

Unit P, V Blocks will be cut from Print 1 & Print 4.

Piecing Instructions

Step 1 – Cut the Center Triangles from Print 4 strips. Lay the strip out and fold over the end of the strip as shown. Position the V Block® tool on the strip so that the Fold Line for Center Triangle is on the fold and the bottom of the strip is lined up with the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool).

Step 2 – Cut along the slanted edge of the tool. Unfold the piece to reveal a Center Triangle. Flip the strip top to bottom as shown.

Step 3 – Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip, and cut the next triangle.

Step 4 – Continue to cut triangles. Flip the strip, cut a center triangle, flip, and cut again. Continue until you have 52 center triangles total.

Line up the ***Center Triangle Trim Line*** with the edge of the strip.

Step 5 – Position the Print 1 Side Triangle strips wrong sides or right sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Cut Line for Side Triangles line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 6 – Rotate the V Block® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the angled edge of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 52 pairs of Side Triangles from Print 1.

Step 7 – Lay out the center triangles and the side triangle pairs.

Step 8 – Align and stitch one side triangle to the center triangle. Use care to make sure you are lining up the correct edges of both the center and side triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Do this for all center triangles.

Step 8 – this photo shows layering the V Block unit on top of the side triangle

Step 9 – Position the remaining side triangles on the other side of the center triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Repeat for all units

Position remaining side triangles on the other side.

Step 10 – Trim the units. Place the V Block unit on the cutting mat right side up with the point of the Center Triangle closest to you. Position the V Block® tool on the unit, aligning the 6” Finished Size measurement with the seam lines. Trim the first two sides of the unit.

Step 11 – Rotate the unit 180o and reposition the tool on top, aligning the trimmed edges of the unit with the Cut Size measurement of 6½” and placing the point of the Center Triangle “V” in the “X” at the top of the tool. Trim the remining two sides. Trim all 52 units.

Trim 2 – trim up the side and across the top.

See instructions for left hand cutting. Congratulations, you have learned another new skill and how to use the V Block tool.

Starget

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I just finished Studio 180 Design pattern “Starget” by Deb Tucker. This quilt finishes at 88″ x 104″. It requires V Block, Square/Squared, Wing Clipper I & Split Rects tools.

I made this quilt for my sister Mary. She came with me to every doctors appointment and every cancer treatment for nine months. Mary had to wait in the car during these (winter) appointments because of COVID restrictions. She loves this pattern and I was so happy to make it for her.

Radioactive

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I obviously can’t get enough of 60 degree triangles. I decided to take a break from One Block Wonders to play with my Star 60 Tool and make Radioactive by Deb Tucker.

Northcott Fabrics provided me with Shimmer Radiance by Deborah Edwards. These fabrics are so beautiful with a soft luscious hand and saturated colors.

Radioactive uses Star 60 units for 12″ and 6″ triangle blocks. First I cut my side triangles for my 12″ Star 60 units, then the 6″ units.

Then I cut my Diamonds using my Star 60 tool.

Once I have cut my units for both my star 60 units it is time to construct my units.

Lay out the bright Diamonds and the background side triangles as shown above. Take a triangle from the right hand side and position it on top of the diamond. Match the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond as shown; align the raw edges.

With the diamond on top, stitch along the matched edges. Press seams open.

Position a remaining triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond. Align the raw edges. With the diamond on top; stitch.

Press seams open. Both the 6″ and the 12″ Star 60 units are constructed the same way.

Choose 6 Star 60 units and 3 companion triangles and layout as shown above.

Note: 3 Star 60 units have the diamonds pointing inward and 3 are pointing outward.

Take the 3 Star 60 units that are pointing outward and position them so the raw edge with both side triangles is either by your right hand if you are right handed or left hand if you are left handed. Locate and align the Flat Edge trim lines on the tool with the seams of the diamond and trim.

Position and stitch each of the 3 trimmed Star 60 units with a Companion Triangle. Stitch with the Star 60 unit on top.

Press the seam toward the Companion Triangle or open.

Trim the Companion Triangle. Position the unit on the cutting mat so that for right handers the Companion Triangle is in the 2 o’clock position or 10 o’clock for left handers. Align the point of point of the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the point of the diamond in the Star 60 unit and the 4 1/4″ horizontal guideline on the seam. Trim the triangle.

Trim the 3 remaining Star 60 units (they are pointing inward in the layout). Position the pieced unit right side up on the cutting mat. Align the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the sewn seams. Trim along both sides of the tool.

Sew the top 3 units as shown. Press all seams open.

Stitch the remaining 3 units as shown above.

Sew the top and bottom sections together. Match the center intersection and the raw edges. Press seams open.

Trim the 12” blocks. Position the block on the cutting mat so that one point is away from you and a flat side near you. Align the 4” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seams of the Star 60 unit at the top of the block and the 8” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seam of the Companion Triangle. The 4¼”, 6¼”, and 8¼” horizontal guidelines will align with seams as well. Trim on both sides of the tool. Because the tool is smaller than the block, trim to about the halfway point on each side of the tool.

Rotate the block so that the next untrimmed point is pointing up, realign the same guidelines and trim again. Then rotate the block to trim the final point. Realign the guidelines and clean up the last point.

Follow the pattern instructions for trimming the 6″ blocks.

Align and center each accent Companion Triangle with the 6” pieced block. Stitch with an accurate ¼” seam. Press all seams toward the Companion Triangles.

Layout your triangle blocks.

Stitch triangles into rows, then add the setting triangles on both ends.

I made the lap size Radioactive, measuring 55″ X 75″. Thank you Northcott Fabrics for these beautiful fabrics. Finished with Quilter’s Dream Batting.

Journeys Month 9 – Corner Beam

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Welcome to Stitchin Heaven‘s Journeys BOM Month 9. You all have worked so hard. This month you will learn to use your Corner Beam tool. Sue Tucker & Naz are my helpers for Month 9.

You will be working with Print 1, 4 and 11 this month.

Cutting the Center Beams

Step 1 – Stack the 7” center beam squares up to 4 layers deep. Align the Center Beam Trim #1 line on your Corner Beam® tool and the 6” finished unit line (bottom edge of tool) with the raw edges of your stack of squares. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 2 – Rotate and cut again. Lift and reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled Center Beam Trim #2 with the previously trimmed angled edge. Cut again. Do this for all your center beam squares.

Cutting the Side Triangles

Step 3 – Fold the side triangle strip right or wrong sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Side Triangles Trim #1 line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 4 – Rotate the Corner Beam® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the bottom of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 8 pairs of side triangles from Print 11 and 4 pairs of side triangles from Print 1.

Step 5 – Lay out and organize your pieces into the correct positions as shown to ensure you sew the proper sides together.

Step 6 – Stitch the first side triangle to each center beam, making sure you sew the correct triangle edge to the center beam. Press the seams open.

Step 7 – Stitch the second side triangle to the other side of each center beam. Press each seam open

Step 8 – Position the trim down area of your Corner Beam® tool on your unit. Carefully line up the diagonal seam guidelines on the Corner Beam® tool with the diagonal seams of your unit. Trim.

Step 9 – Rotate your unit. Align the cleanup lines for the 6½” cut size with the cut edges, the V shaped guideline with the seam intersection, and the tick marks with the seams at the wide end of the beam. Trim. Repeat for all units. Label as indicated in the Unit Summary.