Blast From The Past

The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

The Island Batik Ambassador’s challenge for June is “Modern Batik”. Lord have mercy! I had no idea what to do. I love all types of quilts. For some reason I wondered……what colors were popular in 1953? A search on Pinterest revealed an O’Brien Paints Color Card from 1953! It must be a sign!

I racked my brain. I had these really cool precut rolls of 5″ WOF strips I’d received in my box “O” fabric from Island Batik.

Last year I was constantly looking for quilt blocks containing Shaded Four Patch units. This year it seems to be Split Rects units that have my mind whirling.

The above photo’s are my teaching step outs that explain the process of making Spilt Rects Units in case you weren’t sure what I was talking about.

I chose 8 – 5″ WOF strips of color & cut 8 – 5″ strips of neutral. Each strip yielded 12 pair mirror image elongated triangles for a total of 192 – 2″ x 4″ finished Split Rects Units that I will put together to make a multi-faceted Diamond unit.

I Combined the Split Rects units to make multifaceted diamonds.

I was very closely supervised during this part.

I had an idea of what I wanted, but wasn’t sure how to get there. I had 48 diamond units but needed to add something more. I decided on Rapid Fire Lemoyne Stars.

I went to Island Batik stash and used 2 1/2″ strips from Spoolin’ Around. These beautiful pieces of batik have been hand dyed by skilled fabric artists in the garden village of Sanur, Bali.

This is what I came up with. Is it modern? The challenge description was “must incorporate ONE of the characteristics of modern quilts as defined by the Modern Quilt Guild: the use of bold colors & prints, high contrast & graphic areas of solid color, improvisational piecing, minimalism, expansive negative space, alternate grid work”.

I may have hit one or two points! But if you look to the past for inspiration what can you expect! “Blast From The Past” measures 42′ x 62″.

As always, my quilts are lovingly pieced with Aurifil thread!

#islandbatik #debtucker #studio180design #aurifilthread

The Heron

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The Artisan Spirit, Water Garden fabric in this post was given to me by Northcott Fabrics for the Creators Club.

This is my 63rd One Block Wonder, and I love it! It came out better than I had anticipated. This OBW started as a 28″ x 42″ panel.

When choosing fabric for a One Block Wonder (OBW) I look for a large repeat and a large design in colors that I like. OBW’s require 6 repeats of fabric plus more if you want to put the original fabric in the border. With a panel, the repeat is pre-determined. I bought 7 panels, one to integrate into the top of the quilt and 6 for the blocks.

The process starts with aligning your repeats, evening up one end and cutting them into 3 3/4″ WOF strips. With a 24″ repeat I get 6 strips, but this had a 28″ repeat. Bonus, I got 7 WOF strips. I was able to cut equilateral triangles for 127 .hexagon blocks

There are several 60 degree rulers out there. I prefer to cut my triangles using a 6″ x 12″ Olfa ruler with a 60 line.

Each stack of six triangles is a kaleidoscope giving you 3 choices on how to stitch your block together. I have free, detailed video tutorials available here on my site and on YouTube that guide you through the process of making a One Block Wonder. Plus you should check out Maxine Rosenthal’s books, One Block Wonder’s, One Block Wonders Encore, One Block Wonders Cubed and One Block Wonders of the World (2 of my OBW’s are included in that book).

Usually I wait till all my blocks are sewn before going to the design wall. I was so excited that every few blocks I had to start designing. When constructing OBW blocks, you stitch 3 triangles together, pressing all seams open and then sew the other 3 triangles together. DO NOT sew the center seam. Simply overlap the halves at the center and pin it. My goal with this panel was to design it so it seemed the colors were swirling right off the panel.

Once you have a design you like it’s time to sew the blocks into rows.

Un-pin the blocks one row at a time and sew into rows, press all seams open. I love my pressing stick. It makes it much easier to press all the seams open without disturbing what was previously pressed.

Stitch your rows together. I love my Clover Fork Pins. They are thin and grip and hold the fabric in place.

Did I tell you to press all seams open? That pressing stick really helps.

Putting together a One Block Wonder made using a panel in the quilt top is a little trickier than with just stitched rows. I divided rows into four sections to attach them to the panel. It is like making a log cabin block. I wanted the rows to attach in certain places so color seemed as though it continued right off the panel. I began by trimming the bottom section first and attaching it to the panel.

I could now attach the rows to the right to the panel, using a partial seam and leaving room to adjust the top section of triangles and then add the rows to left of the panel.

I trimmed the edges of the quilt to square it up. I love it, but still wanted to soften the panel edges.

I did not use all the blocks in the quilt top design. I sewed the left over blocks together and trimmed them to make smaller hexagons. I randomly placed them along the edges of the panel and appliqued them down.

The finished quilt measures 60″ x 68″. I did not feel it needed a border. Thank you to Northcott Fabrics and Water Garden designer Ira Kennedy. I really love this quilt.

For OBW inspiration check out the Facebook page “One Block Wonder Quilt Forum”. I am available to teach One Block Wonder Workshops.

#northcottfabrics # Northcottcreatorsclub #oneblockwonders #OBW #Watergarden

What’s on My Design Wall Today!

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I am having so much fun! I don’t even have all the blocks designed yet, I keep going to the design wall. This panel is Artisan Spirit, Water Garden by Northcott. I am making it as part of Northcott’s Creative Club. I can’t wait to finish it! Have you ever made a One Block Wonder using panels?

Pillow Possibilities

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The products featured in this post were given to my by Island Batik.

The Island Batik challenge for May is “Playful Pillows”. As I was thinking about what pillow design I would choose, it occurred to me I had a wealth of ideas at my fingertips. So many of my favorite quilt patterns have blocks large enough for a pillow. I decided I would make the center block from Deb Tucker’s “Carolina Lily: One Block” wall quilt pattern.

Carolina Lily is a companion pattern for the Wing Clipper I.

My fabrics from Island Batik & threads from Aurifil.

For each of the 3 flower blocks you will need 4 flying geese units. Two of the flying geese units will have one pink point & one green point as shown above. Deb Tucker’s method for constructing flying geese requires one large square and 4 small squares. The large square is my background fabric. Three of the small squares are my pink fabric, and one is the green fabric. Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines on the back of your small squares.

To make a flying geese units position one green square and one pink square right sides together in diagonally opposite corners of the one large square. Do Not align the raw edges, instead nudge them in toward the center just a few threads & overlapping the two small squares. Stitch on the lines and cut apart.

Press the seams toward the smaller triangles.

Position the remaining pink squares in the corner of the previously pieced units. Nudge the squares as you did before. Stitch on the lines and cut apart as before.

You now have four flying geese units, two with pink points and two with one green & one pink point. For Right handed cutting position your geese unit horizontally on the cutting mat so it points toward you. Align the diagonal guide lines of the Wing Clipper with the sewn seams of the flying geese unit. Trim up the side and across the top. (See your tool instructions for left handed cutting.)

Rotate the unit and reposition the Wing Clipper to align cleanup guidelines with the previously trimmed raw edges and the “X” at the top with the intersection of the seams. Trim up the side and across the top. Do this for all your geese units.

Construct your lily block according to pattern instructions. The lily block measures about a 16 1/2″, I added 2 1/2″ borders all around it. I like the inside of the pillow to be neat with no raw edges showing. I want to quilt this block so I cut a backing and batting larger than my block and pin basted it.

I used my walking foot and cross hatched the basket portion of the block.

I was carefully supervised during this process.

Once I finished with the basket, I outlined the flower parts and squared up the pillow top.

My pillow top now measures 20 1/2″. I cut two pieces of fabric 12″ x 20 1/2″. On each piece, along one of the 20 1/2″ edges fold it over about 1/4″, press it & fold it over again and press it. Stitch on the pressed over edges for a nice finish. Position these two pieces on the pillow with WRONG sides together aligning the raw edges so the finished edges overlap in the middle. Pin in place and stitch around the outside edges of the pillow using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Now you have a pillow with raw edges around the outside edge. I like to add a binding just like it was a quilt. That way the inside of the pillow is completely finished with no unfinished edges, which is nice for washing the pillow case.

I made this pillow for my sister Mary, but I think Tucker & Zoey are claiming it!

#islandbatik #Aurifilthread #islandbatikambassador #debtucker #studio180design

Refraction

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As I was preparing for an upcoming Tucker University Diamond Rects Class I though I would make Deb Tucker’s Refraction. It is a companion pattern for the Diamond Rects tool.

This is a great pattern to make to expand your skill at using your Diamond Rects Tool. Using six 2 1/2″ strips & background fabric this table runner is fun and quick to make.

I chose six 2 1/2″ strips from Island Batik’s “Spoolin Around” Island Strips pack & Cotton Egg-White for the background.

Cutting the Diamond

I opened my strips and positioned 3 strips right sides up ( you can stack more if you are comfortable), aligning the raw edges. I am right handed, so the selvedges are to the left. Align the guidelines of the ruler with the raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge and across the top.

Rotate the first piece around to make the second diagonal cut near the selvedge edge.

Continue to make cuts until you have 7 diamonds from each strip.

Layer 3 more strip and continue to cut as before.

Cut 6 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ from the remainder of each of the 2 1/2″ strips.

Cutting the Side Triangles

Cut your rectangles from the background fabric per pattern instructions.

Position the Side triangle Cutting Section of the ruler against the raw edges of the stacked rectangles and cut along the slanted edge of the ruler.

Stitch, Press, & Trim

Always lay out all the pieces right sides up as they are going to be stitched. Stitch two opposite side triangles to opposite edges of the center diamond. I align the raw edges, but instead of centering the diamond over the side triangle, I personally nudge my side triangle toward the thicker point of the center diamond. This gives me extra when it comes to the trim down process. Press toward the side triangle and away from the center diamond.

Align and stitch the remaining two side triangles to the raw edges of the center diamond as before. Press away from the center diamond.

Place the stitched and pressed unit on the cutting mat. Position the trim down side of the ruler on the unit, aligning the “X’s” and the dashed lines with the seam intersections and the sewn seams. Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the unit and reposition the ruler, this time align the clean up lines on the previously trimmed sides along with the “X’s” and the dashed lines. Trim up the side and across the top. See tool instructions for left hand cutting.

Complete all your diamonds.

Layout the pattern pieces, stitch into rows and add borders per pattern instructions.

This was quick & fun! Finished project measures 16″ x 51″. Proudly stitched with Aurifil thread and completed with Quilter’s Dream Blend Batting.

#studio180design #debtucker #islandbatik #aurifil #diamondrects #refraction

Prism

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The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Northcott.

I have been chosen to participate in Northcott’s Creative Club. If you have not used Northcott fabrics before you will be pleasantly surprised. Just like their logo says “Cottons that feel like Silk”!

I chose to make Prism, a pattern created by Pam Goggans of Sager Creek Quilts. Prism is a companion pattern for the Studio 180 Design Split Rects Tool.

One of my favorite Disney movies is “Pollyanna”. Remember this scene when they discover “rainbow makers”? I do, and that is the inspiration for my version of Prism.

My fabrics are from Artisan Spirit Shimmer By Deborah Edwards Northcott Studio. Aren’t they just yummy, looks like a rainbow to me!

I am a purveyor of paper plates! I use them to stay organized throughout the quilt making process. I cut everything out but the borders (I save that till the end so I can verify my measurements) and place them on their labeled paper plate. I can stack them up in a tub or place them in gallon size storage bags when I’m not working on them.

Split Rects Units

To make mirror image split rects units, lay the fabric strip “right sides together OR wrong sides together. Position the ruler on the strip with the broad black line against the trimmed end of the strip and the desired finished size guide and trim along the slanted edge. For the second cut, rotate the tool one half turn and align the small second trim “nub” line on the long edge of the strip and the “Second Trim” guide along the just-trimmed edge. Trim along the straight edge of the tool.

I am right handed, so my strips are placed horizontally and I cut from left to right. Left hander’s would place their strips vertically. See tool instructions for complete left handed cutting.

Continue to cut all the pieces for the split rects units.

Lay out the pieces as they will be stitched together. Stitch the elongated triangles by placing them right sides together with the long, bias edge of the pieces aligned. Center the two pieces with just a bit of overlap at the ends.

Press the seams either toward the darker fabric or open. As you can see I press mine open.

Align either the “Common Diagonal” or the “Size Diagonal” with the seam you have sewn. These will vary depending on the slant of the seam in your unit. Check to make sure that the fabric unit is completely contained within the trim down lines. For right hander’s trim up the side and across the top.

Rotate the unit and reposition the tool on top. Align the correct “Cut Size” measurement with the trimmed corner and the same diagonal line used in the first trim. Trim the remaining two edges of the unit.

Above I have laid out my trimmed mirror image split rects units.

Double Split Rects Units

After trimming the split rects units to the correct “Cut Size” choose 24 mirror image units to make special Double Split Rects!

According to pattern instructions trim away the excess of the colored triangle. Make sure to position the left leaning units right side up and the right leaning units right side down.

Using the Split Rects Tool, cut triangles from the accent fabric according to pattern instructions.

Lay out the trimmed units and the replacement triangles.

Stitch the dark triangles to the trimmed units. I press my seams open.

Trim as before. Place right leaning unit right side up and left leaning unit wrong side up.

I laid out my units on the design wall, and then I noticed two units were missing! Tucker my Chihuahua decided I had ignored her long enough. This is her way getting my attention. I found the units upstairs by a guilty grinning Tucker!

I stitched the units for the quilt center together and then added the borders. The secret to this quilt is to use your best accurate 1/4″ seam!

I quilted Prism with a meandering stitch. (All that meander are not lost.)

The Northcott Artisan Spirit Shimmer fabric line was perfect for this quilt! I love it!

Even the quilt back is beautiful Northcott fabric!

I used Quilter’s Dream Blend Batting, and I do all my piecing with Aurifil thread!

Vintage Quilts Inspiring New Creations

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The April challenge for the Island Batik Ambassador’s is to “Look Back” and get inspired! Not a problem for me. My inspiration stems from the Hunter Star quilt. This quilt is on many quilter’s bucket lists. The quilt shown below represents a traditional hunter star layout.

I love Deb Tucker’s Rapid Fire Hunter Star tools. Once you learn the Rapid Fire Process you will be able to make any version of the Hunter Star Quilt. I went to Deb Tucker’s new book “Hunter Star Royal Treasures” for my inspiration. This book contains 40 different king & queen size hunter star layouts, including one from me “Waves of Joy”. But what got my attention were the “Alternative” layouts. Wow what a difference a little change can make. Instead of the traditional piecing of the dark trapezoid to the dark triangle or a light trapezoid to a light triangle, do the reverse and piece a dark trapezoid to a light triangle and vice versa.

I chose “Baths of Tortola”, designed & pieced by Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Heidi Chase (Running With Scissors Quilters). Heidi’s quilt is a queen size, 8 x 10 block layout, made with the Large Hunter Star tool & 9″ finished blocks. (The photo on the left of my smaller version of Baths of Tortola (50″x60″) was taken on one of the many trees we lost during one of the many nor’easters this winter.)

I wanted to make a smaller quilt, so I pulled out my Petite Hunter Star tool, and my Field Guide. This fabulous little book gave me the fabric requirements for a 5″ Hunter Star Petite, 8 by 10 block layout in a two color option. Sweeeet! This book gives you yardage requirements and cutting instructions for 213 projects in 2, 3 & 4 color options for 5″, 6″ 7″ and 8″ block sizes from wall hanging to king size projects.

I pulled my Crystal Cove Water Aqua & Cotton Egg-white Island Batik fabric choices from my stash.

I start by cutting my triangle, star point & trapezoid strips in both colors.

From my 5″ triangle strips I cut 5″ squares and cut them once diagonally and set them aside for later.

As a righty, I lay my trapezoid strip horizontally on my cutting mat with the selvedges to the left. (Left handed cutting options are included in the tool instructions.) The strip can be either right or wrong sides together. I’m making 5″ finished blocks so I place the 5″ line on my hunter star tool on the bottom of the strip and begin cutting my trapezoids for both colors.

I cut my star point strips in half and divide them into 4 piles. The two aqua piles will be the star points on both ends of the light trapezoids and the two light piles will be the star points on both ends of the aqua trapezoids. Begin by positioning the trapezoids right sides together with the star point strip, staggering down from the top 2 1/4″, spacing the trapezoids about 1/4″ apart and stitch. The hunter star tool instructions give detailed guidance.

Once the trapezoids are stitched to the star point strip, place the strip set on the ironing board with star strip on the bottom and the trapezoids on top and carefully press as shown. Lay the strip vertically on the cutting mat and trim using the Hunter Star tool.

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I now have an oversized star point on one end of my trapezoid. This time I add my trapezoids starting from the bottom and spacing them about 1/4″ apart and stitch them. Lay the strip on the ironing board with the trapezoids on the bottom and the star strip on top and carefully press toward the star strip. (Remember: whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

Lay the strip horizontally on the cutting mat and trim according to the instructions. Repeat this process for both colors.

The light and the aqua trapezoids have oversized star points on each end. One of Deb Tucker’s great tips is to lay about 5 strips of painter’s tape layered on top of each other on your cutting mat. Trim off a little on one side evening up the edges. Peel up the tape and place it on ruler line to aid in making repetitive cuts. Our trapezoids were precision cut from 1 3/4″ strips. By placing the built up tape edge on the 1 3/4″ line it will make it much easier to trim the sewn units to 1 3/4″. Trim all the units.

Each hunter star block contains 2 triangles, 2 trapezoids & 4 star points. Remember, we are breaking the rules by centering and stitching a light trapezoid to a dark triangle & a dark trapezoid to a light triangle.

Match the triangle halves, nest the seams and stitch. Press the diagonal seam open.

Carefully align the center line of the tool with the center seam of the block. Carefully aligning the diamonds on the tool with the seam lines of the diamonds on the pieced block, trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the tool and rotate the block and carefully trim the other two sides, using the dashed lines along the side of the tool on the previously trimmed edges. Trim all the blocks to the cut size.

Layout the blocks and stitch them together into rows. I added 5″ borders.

I Loaded it onto the quilt frame and started meandering. Just remember, “All that Meander are Not Lost”! I bought Jamie Wallen’s wonderful quilting tools, but I haven’t learned to use them yet! (As you can see, they are still in the original packaging, sigh.)

This is definitely NOT your grandmother’s Hunter Star Quilt!

#islandbatikambassador #Islandbatik #iheartislandbatik

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