Category Archives: Studio 180 Design

Crossfire

The fabrics in the post were generously given to me by Northcott Fabrics.

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I chose Northcott fabrics from the Sew Musical Row by Row Palette 2018.  When I choose my fabrics from Northcott, I get so excited when they are delivered.  As soon as I touch the fabric, I feel the quality.  These colors are luscious with just enough texture to give depth and interest.

Crossfire is a Studio 180 Design pattern designed by talented Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer.  It is a companion pattern for the Large Square/Squared tool.

The block featured in this quilt is called “Bird of Paradise”.  The pattern describes this quilt as “whirling stars with accents and chains of black and grey.  A new fun variation of a Flying Goose makes for a star with loads more sparkle”, and it does.

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If you follow me, you know I love to organize my quilt making process by labeling paper plates for my block pieces as I cut them out.  I never get lost or forget what the pieces are for.  All my block pieces are cut and ready to put together.

Star Blocks:  You will be making 8 star blocks, they will be made in pairs.  Each pair will contain the same colors, but their arrangements will give you two different looking blocks.  Label one of the colors in each pair as Color 1 & Color 2.  If you follow the instructions in the pattern you wont have any trouble.  After construction the diamond square units are trimmed to the cut size of 6.5″ x 6.5″

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Beautiful, perfectly trimmed units leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance, so I will not lose my points.  After all…no one wants to be pointless!

Next, we make half square triangles and perfectly trim them using our Large Square/Squared tool.

Lay out your trimmed half square triangles and the and two white triangles as shown.  Work with one triangle at a time, stitch & carefully press toward the white triangle as not to distort the shape.

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Laying Out the Blocks:   Pay close attention to Step 10.  Split your pieced geese into two piles of four.  Lay out your side triangles so that on one pile you have four Color 1 side triangles on the right side & four Color 2 side triangles on the left side.  The other pile will have four Color 2 side triangles on the right side & four Color 1 side triangles on the left side.  If you lay them as I did above for every color combination, you will be fine.

It is very important to pay attention to Step 11:  Position the right side triangle so that Color 1 shows a bit beyond the white along the top edge.  Stitch and press toward the side triangle.  Trim the units according to pattern instructions and put your blocks together.

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Crossfire is a fun, skill expanding pattern.  Finished quilt measures 60″ x 84″.

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Pillow Possibilities

The products featured in this post were given to my by Island Batik.

Playful Pillows

The Island Batik challenge for May is “Playful Pillows”.  As I was thinking about what pillow design I would choose, it occurred to me I had a wealth of ideas at my fingertips.  So many of my favorite quilt patterns have blocks large enough for a pillow.  I decided I would make the center block from Deb Tucker’s “Carolina Lily: One Block” wall quilt pattern.

DTP005_-_No_Y_Carolina_Lily_-_One_Block_1024x1024Carolina Lily is a companion pattern for the Wing Clipper I.

My fabrics from Island Batik & threads from Aurifil.

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For each of the 3 flower blocks you will need 4 flying geese units.  Two of the flying geese units will have one pink point & one green point as shown above.  Deb Tucker’s method for constructing flying geese requires one large square and 4 small squares.  The large square is my background fabric. Three of the small squares are my pink fabric, and one is the green fabric.  Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines on the back of your small squares.

To make a flying geese units position one green square and one pink square right sides together in diagonally opposite corners of the one large square.  Do Not align the raw edges, instead nudge them in toward the center just a few threads & overlapping the two small squares.  Stitch on the lines and cut apart.

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Press the seams toward the smaller triangles.

Position the remaining pink squares in the corner of the previously pieced units.  Nudge the squares as you did before.  Stitch on the lines and cut apart as before.

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You now have four flying geese units, two with pink points and two with one green & one pink point.  For Right handed cutting position your geese unit horizontally on the cutting mat so it points toward you.  Align the diagonal guide lines of the Wing Clipper with the sewn seams of the flying geese unit.  Trim up the side and across the top.  (See your tool instructions for left handed cutting.)

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Rotate the unit and reposition the Wing Clipper to align cleanup guidelines with the previously trimmed raw edges and the “X” at the top with the intersection of the seams.  Trim up the side and across the top.  Do this for all your geese units.

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Construct your lily block according to pattern instructions.  The lily block measures about  a 16 1/2″, I added 2 1/2″ borders all around it.  I like the inside of the pillow to be neat with no raw edges showing.  I want to quilt this block so I cut a backing and batting larger than my block and pin basted it.

I used my walking foot and cross hatched the basket portion of the block.

I was carefully supervised during this process.

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Once I finished with the basket, I outlined the flower parts and squared up the pillow top.

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My pillow top now measures 20 1/2″.  I cut two pieces of fabric 12″ x 20 1/2″.  On each piece, along one of the 20 1/2″ edges fold it over about 1/4″, press it & fold it over again and press it.  Stitch on the pressed over edges for a nice finish.  Position these two pieces on the pillow with WRONG sides together aligning the raw edges so the finished edges overlap in the middle.  Pin in place and stitch around the outside edges of the pillow using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

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Now you have a pillow with raw edges around the outside edge.  I like to add a binding just like it was a quilt.  That way the inside of the pillow is completely finished with no unfinished edges, which is nice for washing the pillow case.

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I made this pillow for my sister Mary, but I think Tucker & Zoey are claiming it!

#islandbatik #Aurifilthread #islandbatikambassador #debtucker #studio180design

Refraction

As I was preparing for an upcoming Tucker University Diamond Rects Class I though I would make Deb Tucker’s Refraction.  It is a companion pattern for the Diamond Rects tool.

This is a great pattern to make to expand your skill at using your Diamond Rects Tool.  Using six 2 1/2″ strips & background fabric this table runner is fun and quick to make.

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I chose six 2 1/2″ strips from Island Batik’s “Spoolin Around” Island Strips pack & Cotton Egg-White for the background.

Cutting the Diamond

I opened my strips and positioned 3 strips right sides up ( you can stack more if you are comfortable), aligning the raw edges.  I am right handed, so the selvedges are to the left.  Align the guidelines of the ruler with the raw edge of the strip.  Cut along the angled edge and across the top.

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Rotate the first piece around to make the second diagonal cut near the selvedge edge.

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Continue to make cuts until you have 7 diamonds from each strip.

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Layer 3 more strip and continue to cut as before.

Cut 6 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ from the remainder of each of the 2 1/2″ strips.

Cutting the Side Triangles

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Cut your rectangles from the background fabric per pattern instructions.

Position the Side triangle Cutting Section of the ruler against the raw edges of the stacked rectangles and cut along the slanted edge of the ruler.

Stitch, Press, & Trim

Always lay out all the pieces right sides up as they are going to be stitched.  Stitch two opposite side triangles to opposite edges of the center diamond.  I align the raw edges, but instead of centering the diamond over the side triangle, I personally nudge my side triangle toward the thicker point of the center diamond.  This gives me extra when it comes to the trim down process.  Press toward the side triangle and away from the center diamond.

Align and stitch the remaining two side triangles to the raw edges of the center diamond as before.  Press away from the center diamond.

Place the stitched and pressed unit on the cutting mat.  Position the trim down side of the ruler on the unit, aligning the “X’s” and the dashed lines with the seam intersections and the sewn seams.  Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the unit and reposition the ruler, this time align the clean up lines on the previously trimmed sides along with the “X’s” and the dashed lines.  Trim up the side and across the top.  See tool instructions for left hand cutting.

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Complete all your diamonds.

img_6127Layout the pattern pieces, stitch into rows and add borders per pattern instructions.

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This was quick & fun!  Finished project measures 16″ x 51″.  Proudly stitched with Aurifil thread and completed with Quilter’s Dream Blend Batting.

#studio180design #debtucker #islandbatik #aurifil #diamondrects #refraction

Prism

Northcott Logo The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Northcott.

I have been chosen to participate in Northcott’s Creative Club.  If you have not used Northcott fabrics before you will be pleasantly surprised.  Just like their logo says “Cottons that feel like Silk”!

I chose to make Prism, a pattern created by Pam Goggans of Sager Creek Quilts.  Prism is a companion pattern for the Studio 180 Design Split Rects Tool.

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One of my favorite Disney movies is “Pollyanna”.  Remember this scene when they discover “rainbow makers”?  I do, and that is the inspiration for my version of Prism.

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My fabrics are from Artisan Spirit Shimmer By Deborah Edwards Northcott Studio.  Aren’t they just yummy, looks like a rainbow to me!

I am a purveyor of paper plates!  I use them to stay organized throughout the quilt making process.  I cut everything out but the borders (I save that till the end so I can verify my measurements) and place them on their labeled paper plate.  I can stack them up in a tub or place them in gallon size storage bags when I’m not working on them.

Split Rects Units

To make mirror image split rects units, lay the fabric strip “right sides together OR wrong sides together.  Position the ruler on the strip with the broad black line against the trimmed end of the strip and the desired finished size guide and trim along the slanted edge.  For the second cut, rotate the tool one half turn and align the small second trim “nub” line on the long edge of the strip and the “Second Trim” guide along the just-trimmed edge.  Trim along the straight edge of the tool.

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I am right handed, so my strips are placed horizontally and I cut from left to right.  Left hander’s would place their strips vertically.  See tool instructions for complete left handed cutting.

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Continue to cut all the pieces for the split rects units.

Lay out the pieces as they will be stitched together.  Stitch the elongated triangles by placing them right sides together with the long, bias edge of the pieces aligned.  Center the two pieces with just a bit of overlap at the ends.

Press the seams either toward the darker fabric or open.  As you can see I press mine open.

Align either the “Common Diagonal” or the “Size Diagonal” with the seam you have sewn.  These will vary depending on the slant of the seam in your unit.  Check to make sure that the fabric unit is completely contained within the trim down lines.  For right hander’s trim up the side and across the top.

Rotate the unit and reposition the tool on top.  Align the correct  “Cut Size” measurement with the trimmed corner and the same diagonal line used in the first trim.  Trim the remaining two edges of the unit.

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Above I have laid out my trimmed mirror image split rects units.

Double Split Rects Units

After trimming the split rects units to the correct “Cut Size” choose 24 mirror image units to make special Double Split Rects!

According to pattern instructions trim away the excess of the colored triangle.  Make sure to position the left leaning units right side up and the right leaning units right side down.

Using the Split Rects Tool, cut triangles from the accent fabric according to pattern instructions.img_6058

Lay out the trimmed units and the replacement triangles.

Stitch the dark triangles to the trimmed units.  I press my seams open.

Trim as before.  Place right leaning unit right side up and left leaning unit wrong side up.

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I laid out my units on the design wall, and then I noticed two units were missing!  Tucker my Chihuahua decided I had ignored her long enough.  This is her way getting my attention.  I found the units upstairs by a guilty grinning Tucker!

I stitched the units for the quilt center together and then added the borders.  The secret to this quilt is to use your best accurate 1/4″ seam!

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I quilted Prism with a meandering stitch.  (All that meander are not lost.)

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The Northcott Artisan Spirit Shimmer fabric line was perfect for this quilt!  I love it!

Even the quilt back is beautiful Northcott fabric!

I used Quilter’s Dream Blend Batting, and I do all my piecing with Aurifil thread!

BlockBuster #7 – Whimsy Turndash

I love this block So sweet & easy.   All the instructions you will need for BlockBuster # 07 Whimsy Turndash  came with your Square/Squared & Tucker Trimmer I tools which are required to make this block.  You will also need to reference your Little Houses Technique Sheet.

Whimsy Turndash is made up of 3 different units.  Unit A is Square/Squared, one for the block center.  Unit B is Little Houses, 4 are needed.  Unit C is Half Square Triangles (HST), 4 are needed for the block corners.  I made a 12″ finished block containing 4″ finished units.

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The Whimsy Turndash supply list (link in the first paragraph above) offers you 3 different layouts and a black line master to play with.  I chose 2 colors and a background fabric shown above.

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Unit A – Square/Squared:  Determine the desired finished size of your unit.  Go to the Center Square Section on your Square/Squared Tool.  Mine finished size is 4″, The Center Square Sections tells me to cut a strip 3 1/2″ wide.

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I already trimmed off the selvage of my 3 1/2″ strip.  Place the line for 4″ finished units on the bottom of the strip up against the trimmed end.  Trim up the left side and across the top.  You now have a perfect precision cut center square for your unit.

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On your Square/Squared tool find the Size Chart for Triangles.  For 4″ finished units I cut two 3 1/4″ squares and cut them once diagonally.

Center a side triangle over the center square and stitch. Center another side triangle to the opposite side of the center square and stitch.  Press toward the side triangle.

Center another side triangle as before and stitch, repeat on the opposite side so all sides of the center square have a side triangle stitched to it, press toward the side triangle.

Position the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool over the pieced unit.  Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit.  Mine is 4″ finished, so there is a 4 at each corner of the center square.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Check your tool instructions for Left handed cutting tool position.

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For the second cut Lift your tool & rotate your unit.  Position the tool lining up the “X’s” again and lining up the cleanup lines on the tool with edges previously trimmed.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Unit B – Little House:  You will need to make 4 Little Houses.  Each little house is made up of 3 squares, one large and two small.  For a 4″ finished unit cut four 4 3/4″ squares and eight 2 3/4″ squares.

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Begin by marking a diagonal line on the back of your small squares, this will be a stitching line.

Note:  you may want to mark an additional line 1/2″ from the center diagonal line to use as a secondary stitching line for creating half square triangles out of the left over fabric.

Position one small square in one of the corners of a large square, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line going across the corner of the large square as shown above.  Stitch on both lines and trim apart.

Press toward the triangle.  Position a second small square in the corner next to corner you just stitched.  Stitch on both lines, cut apart press toward the triangle.  Press your half square triangles to the dark.  The small half square triangles are not used in this unit.  If you don’t want to make them for another project just draw the one diagonal line and once it is stitched discard the corner fabric.

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Using the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool line up the peak of the House with the “X” corresponding with your finished unit size.  Align the seams with the dotted lines extending down from the “X”.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Rotate your Little House around, and line up the two trimmed edges with the cleanup line corresponding to your unit cut size.  This time aligning the peak with the “X” at the bottom.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Repeat with the other 3 large squares.

Unit C – Half Square Triangles:  We need four Half Square Triangles.  Go to the “Starting Square Size Chart” in your Tucker Trimmer instructions.  I am making 4″ finished units, so I need to cut two 5″ background squares and two 5″ squares your color of choice.

Use your Magic Wand and draw to diagonal lines on the back of your background squares as shown above.

Place background squares right sides together with your color of choice squares, stitch on the lines, cut apart and press toward the dark fabric.

We always trim our units to the cut size.  My HST are 4″ finished and 4 1/2″ cut size.  therefore I look for the half circle in the corner of my tool and position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit with the half circle in the upper right hand corner, carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  If you are left handed, you would position your tool with half circles in the lower left hand corner of the unit.  

Rotate your unit and line up the trimmed edges with the corresponding cut size of your unit, and carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

Lay out your completed units.  Sew into rows.

This is the back of the block showing how I pressed  the seams.

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I love the completed Whimsy Turndash and I hope you will too.  This is a great block to practice these easy techniques with.

 

Royal Treasures is here at last!

After three long years of labor, Deb Tucker’s newest book, Hunter’s Star Royal Treasures, has finally arrived!

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Royal Treasures is a follow up to Deb Tucker’s Hunter’s Star Hidden Treasures book.  After publishing Hidden Treasures, which focused exclusively on throw sized Hunter Star quilts, Deb began getting requests and questions about bigger, bed-sized projects.  Hunter’s Star Royal Treasures has over 40 brand new quilt designs, all made exclusively with Studio 180 Design’s Large Hunter’s Star Tool.

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The quilts in Royal Treasures were created by Deb Tucker and dozens of Certified Instructors, including ME!  With that many different creators there is something for everybody in this book.

Waves of Joy

I am over the moon proud to have my quilt “Waves of Joy” included in Royal Treasures!  Waves of Joy is a King Size quilt made with fabric from V and Co., Simply Colorful II by Moda.  I chose 4 basic colors with varying prints in each color.  But you could choose to use a simple two color format of lights and darks.

Using Deb Tucker’s Rapid Fire Hunter Star process, you will increase your productivity and decrease your stress.  Each Hunter Star block consists of 2 triangles. 2 trapezoids, plus 4 star points.  It’s all about the color play.

I offer Hunter Star workshops where you will make a “Basic Recipe Wall Quilt” using the Hunter Star tool. When you are done you will understand and have the skills to make any Hunter Star quilt.  Contact me for workshop information or find a Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor near you.

I Love New York OBW #62

I had a really busy Fall teaching schedule this year.  I am so looking forward to 2018.  I got a jump start by making a quilt for Granddaughter Bailey’s 19th birthday.  She absolutely loves New York City.  We have visited there several times and walked from one end of the city to the other.  I had this fabric from Timeless Treasures for several years.  It just occurred to me that I must have been saving it for Bailey.

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It is about 9 degrees in Central NY today.  This is my 62nd One Block Wonder.

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The back also has a New York City themed fabric.  Happy Birthday Bailey!

I Love NY

Deb Tucker had a busy year also, Studio 180 has many new patterns out.  I’m working on one now called Whirling Dervish that is so fun.  I will be posting about it soon.  There are also new Studio 180 Design Technique Sheets to expand our skills.

Stacked Squares

“Stacked Squares” is a technique that will allow you to make the “Economy” block perfectly every time without using paper foundation piecing. Like all Studio 180 Design processes, you’ll be constructing oversized units and then trimming them down.  Above I made a block using the “Stacked Squares” technique sheet and the required Large Square/Squared Tool to make a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square! Whew!

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You have heard of the “Shaded Four Patch”, well here is a sample of what you can do with the “Shaded Nine Patch” units.  The Shaded Nine Patch is an amazing unit that has endless possibilities all by itself or it can be combined with other fundamental units to create even more designs. With the Shaded Nine Patch Technique Sheet you can make this unit in 7 sizes.

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I made this block using  the Bird of Paradise Technique Sheet.  This techniques requires the Large Square/Squared tool, it is so very cool.  You can make this unit in 6 sizes from 1″x 2″ to 6″ x 12″.

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I love this new “Eight at Once” technique sheet!  With the Tucker Trimmer I you can make Half Square Triangles (HST) 2 at a time.  With this technique you can make 8 HST’s at a time in 11 different sizes! Wowza!

Deb also gave us a new tool, the Four Patch Square Up.  Four Patches are basic units that seem so simple to make. Just stitch 4 squares together and you’re good to go.  But anyone who attempted these units knows they are notoriously difficult to make.  The Four Patch Square Up tool is the solution.  The tool’s perfectly engineered lines are designed to quickly locate and align with the unit center and sewn seams, allowing for easy trimming on all four sides.  You will be able to make Four Patch Units in 12 sizes!

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I played with the Four Patch Square up using Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster #24 Compounding Four block pattern. I love the design it makes when you put 4 blocks together.

I wish you all a Happy & Healthy New Year!  Let’s go quilt something!