I saw this fabric by Alexander Henry and just had to have it. It is a large print with a 24″ repeat and is full of vibrant colors. I knew I want to add a large star constructed from Star 60 & Quad 60 units.
I made 3″ finished Quad 60 and Star 60 units.
I thought I would incorporate this 12″ hexagon into my design as is.
But, I decided to add points turning it into a 24″ star by adding 6″ finished Quad 60’s for the points.
The photo’s above show how I made the 6″ hexagons and the 24″ star fit together.
Rainbow Forest is not yet quilted, but it will be soon.
I have been on a journey this year to see how many stars and shapes I can place in a One Block Wonder.
I found this great fabric from Timeless Treasures called “Last Dance”. The Skeletons are about 6 1/2″ tall.
Last Dance made some great octagons. I wanted to add a bat in my design also.
My friend and fellow Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Beth Sidley designs great patterns. I love Moonlight Flight and decided to use her bat for my quilt. You can purchase Moonlight Flight from her Etsy shop Park Bench Designs.
Welcome, Welcome, Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journey’s BOM – Month 12! This has been a spectacular year. You all have worked so hard. Thank you to Deb Luttrell, Founder of Stitchin Heaven, Deb Tucker, Creative Kingpin of Studio 180 Design, Marie Bostwick New York Times best selling author and Jason Yenter Fabric Designer & President of In the Beginning Fabrics for making this all possible. Now to assemble your quilts!
Note: WOF stands for width of fabric. This month you will assemble your quilt top and add the borders.
Gather the following pieces:
4 Corner Sections from Month 6
Block K from Month 7
4 Middle Edge Sections from Month 9
4 Pieced Border sections from Month 11
Step 1 – Lay out the Corner Sections, Middle Edge Sections, and Block K as shown in the diagram on page 35.
Step 2 – Stitch the sections together into rows, press the seams open. Stitch the rows together to create the quilt center.
Step 3 – Attach the 72½” Print 11 inner border strips. Find the center of the quilt and the center of the 72½” border strip. Match the center points with right sides together, pin. Match both ends of the strip with the ends of the quilt and pin in place. Ease the quilt top to match the border strip and add more pins between the others to hold the border in place as you stitch. Attach the other 72½” border to the opposite side in the same manner and press toward the inner border strip.
Step 4 – Repeat step 3 for the 75½” Print 11 border strips.
Step 5 – Attach the 75½” Print 6 middle border strips. Using two of the border strips, stitch them to the quilt in the same manner as in step 3. Press toward Print 6.
Step 6 – Stitch a Print 4 middle border corner stone to each end of the remining 2”x 75½” Print 6 borders. Press toward the middle border.
Step 7 – Attach the remining two middle border strips to the quilt as described in step 3. Make sure to nest the seams. Press toward the middle border.
Step 8 – Add the pieced borders. Start with the borders that do not have the N Units on the ends. Orient the pieced borders so that the Corner Pops are against the middle border and the points of the V Blocks are pointing away from the quilt center. Refer to the diagram. Find the center of the quilt top and the center of the pieced border. Match the centers and pin. Match each end and pin. Ease the border to match the quilt top and add more pins between the others to hold the border in place as you stitch. Stitch in place. Press toward the middle border.
Step 9 – Repeat step 8 for the other pieced borders with the N Units attached to the ends. After you have matched the centers and the ends, make sure that you nest the Corner Beam seam with the seam attaching the pieced border.
Note: We recommend that you wait to cut your outer borders to length until you can measure your quilt top. To determine your specific border length, measure the longest side of your quilt in three different places. If those measurements are different, add the three measurements together and divide by three. That will be the length that you need to cut your first two borders. Once the first two borders are attached to the quilt repeat the process for the remaining two sides.
Step 10 – Add the outer borders. Find the center of the quilt and the center of the 90½” outer border strip. Match the center points with right sides together, pin, match either end of the strip with the ends of the quilt, and pin in place. Add more pins between the others, about every 4”, to hold the border in place as you stitch. Attach the other 90½” border to the opposite side in the same manner and press toward the outer border strip.
Step 11 – Repeat step 10 for the 102½” outer border strips.
Step 12 – Finish with Batting, Backing, Quilting, and Binding! Layer quilt top with batting and backing. Baste and quilt. Bind and Enjoy!
Thank you all so much for joining us on this Journey! Congratulations on a job well done!
I love Josephine Wall’s art, her fabric panels are glorious. They make spectacular One Block Wonders.
These panels must have been either the beginning of the run or the last. The outer edges were off be about 1/2″. I focused on aligning the panels around the unicorn. The outer edges were mostly space so it was not crucial they be perfectly aligned. I cut my strips 3.75″ by WOF.
Welcome everyone to Stitchin Heavens Journey Month 11 BOM – Victory Block: Part 2. Time fly’s when you are having fun! This month you are learning to use Studio 180 Design Corner Pop tool.
You will be popping off the corners of the of 52 Victory blocks from Month 10 and adding Print 3 to the corners.
Step 1 – Position a Unit P from month 10 right side up with the point away from you on the cutting mat. On your Corner Pop® tool, find the 3” Cut Away Corners line. Position the 3” Cut Away lines of the tool over one of the corners that has a seam going into the corner as shown.
Step 2 – Cut away the corner. Repeat on the same corner for all 52 units.
Step 3 – Center one 4¼” Print 3 replacement triangle with its long side on the trimmed corner of each V Block unit. Stitch using an accurate ¼” seam. Press the seam toward the replacement triangle.
Step 4 – Position the 3” Corner Trim Down line of the tool over the seam. Align the diagonal guideline with the seam and the edges of the unit with the edges of the tool. Trim the Corner. Repeat for all P units.
Step 5 – Cut away the second corner of all 52 units. Position the 3” Cut Away lines on the tool over the second corner that has a seam going into the corner as shown.
Step 6 – Repeat steps 3 & 4 for all units so that you have 52 Victory Blocks. This time around, in step 3, press the seam away from the replacement triangle toward the V Block unit.
Step 7 – Lay out your Victory Block units as shown to make 4 pieced border sections. Each border section has 13 Victory Block units.
Step 8 – Stitch the units together into the 4 pieced border sections needed. Press the seams between the units open.
Step 9 – Set two border sections aside. With the remining two borders, add a Unit N from month 9 to each end of the border section as shown.
Step 10 – Press the seams open. Set the final two borders aside to use next month to finish your quilt top.
Congratulations, you all have done so well in months 1 – 11. Next month is our final post. I can’t wait to see your completed Journey quilts!
I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.
I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.
I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″
One day, several months ago I received a text from my sister Marti in Arizona. She frantically wanted to know how panels were needed for a One Block Wonder (OBW). I quickly answered “7” panels were needed. I thought she must have a found a fabulous panel to work with. Then about a week later I a received a package from Marti.
Marti had sent me 7 panels by Josephine Wall & 3 Wishes. I was obsessed and couldn’t wait to make this panel into a OBW. Marti said this would be me when I emerged from breast cancer treatment. She was right!
As I was working on this OBW I realized that most of the hexagons would be toward the back. I made these great stars using Studio 180 Design Star 60 Tool and the Framed 60 Technique Sheet to enhance my design. Now she is shooting for the stars and leaving cancer behind!
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM – Month 10 Victory Block: Part 1. This month you will be using Studio 180 Design V Block tool. Sarah Furrer is my helper this month.
Unit P, V Blocks will be cut from Print 1 & Print 4.
Step 1 – Cut the Center Triangles from Print 4 strips. Lay the strip out and fold over the end of the strip as shown. Position the V Block® tool on the strip so that the Fold Line for Center Triangle is on the fold and the bottom of the strip is lined up with the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool).
Step 2 – Cut along the slanted edge of the tool. Unfold the piece to reveal a Center Triangle. Flip the strip top to bottom as shown.
Step 3 – Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip, and cut the next triangle.
Step 4 – Continue to cut triangles. Flip the strip, cut a center triangle, flip, and cut again. Continue until you have 52 center triangles total.
Step 5– Position the Print 1 Side Triangle strips wrong sides or right sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Cut Line for Side Triangles line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 6– Rotate the V Block® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the angled edge of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 52 pairs of Side Triangles from Print 1.
Step 7– Lay out the center triangles and the side triangle pairs.
Step 8– Align and stitch one side triangle to the center triangle. Use care to make sure you are lining up the correct edges of both the center and side triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Do this for all center triangles.
Step 9– Position the remaining side triangles on the other side of the center triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Repeat for all units
Step 10– Trim the units. Place the V Block unit on the cutting mat right side up with the point of the Center Triangle closest to you. Position the V Block® tool on the unit, aligning the 6” Finished Size measurement with the seam lines. Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 11– Rotate the unit 180o and reposition the tool on top, aligning the trimmed edges of the unit with the Cut Size measurement of 6½” and placing the point of the Center Triangle “V” in the “X” at the top of the tool. Trim the remining two sides. Trim all 52 units.
See instructions for left hand cutting. Congratulations, you have learned another new skill and how to use the V Block tool.
I made this quilt for my sister Mary. She came with me to every doctors appointment and every cancer treatment for nine months. Mary had to wait in the car during these (winter) appointments because of COVID restrictions. She loves this pattern and I was so happy to make it for her.
I obviously can’t get enough of 60 degree triangles. I decided to take a break from One Block Wonders to play with my Star 60 Tool and make Radioactive by Deb Tucker.
Northcott Fabrics provided me with Shimmer Radiance by Deborah Edwards. These fabrics are so beautiful with a soft luscious hand and saturated colors.
Radioactive uses Star 60 units for 12″ and 6″ triangle blocks. First I cut my side triangles for my 12″ Star 60 units, then the 6″ units.
Then I cut my Diamonds using my Star 60 tool.
Once I have cut my units for both my star 60 units it is time to construct my units.
Lay out the bright Diamonds and the background side triangles as shown above. Take a triangle from the right hand side and position it on top of the diamond. Match the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond as shown; align the raw edges.
With the diamond on top, stitch along the matched edges. Press seams open.
Position a remaining triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond. Align the raw edges. With the diamond on top; stitch.
Press seams open. Both the 6″ and the 12″ Star 60 units are constructed the same way.
Choose 6 Star 60 units and 3 companion triangles and layout as shown above.
Note: 3 Star 60 units have the diamonds pointing inward and 3 are pointing outward.
Take the 3 Star 60 units that are pointing outward and position them so the raw edge with both side triangles is either by your right hand if you are right handed or left hand if you are left handed. Locate and align the Flat Edge trim lines on the tool with the seams of the diamond and trim.
Position and stitch each of the 3 trimmed Star 60 units with a Companion Triangle. Stitch with the Star 60 unit on top.
Press the seam toward the Companion Triangle or open.
Trim the Companion Triangle. Position the unit on the cutting mat so that for right handers the Companion Triangle is in the 2 o’clock position or 10 o’clock for left handers. Align the point of point of the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the point of the diamond in the Star 60 unit and the 4 1/4″ horizontal guideline on the seam. Trim the triangle.
Trim the 3 remaining Star 60 units (they are pointing inward in the layout). Position the pieced unit right side up on the cutting mat. Align the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the sewn seams. Trim along both sides of the tool.
Sew the top 3 units as shown. Press all seams open.
Stitch the remaining 3 units as shown above.
Sew the top and bottom sections together. Match the center intersection and the raw edges. Press seams open.
Trim the 12” blocks. Position the block on the cutting mat so that one point is away from you and a flat side near you. Align the 4” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seams of the Star 60 unit at the top of the block and the 8” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seam of the Companion Triangle. The 4¼”, 6¼”, and 8¼” horizontal guidelines will align with seams as well. Trim on both sides of the tool. Because the tool is smaller than the block, trim to about the halfway point on each side of the tool.
Rotate the block so that the next untrimmed point is pointing up, realign the same guidelines and trim again. Then rotate the block to trim the final point. Realign the guidelines and clean up the last point.
Follow the pattern instructions for trimming the 6″ blocks.
Align and center each accent Companion Triangle with the 6” pieced block. Stitch with an accurate ¼” seam. Press all seams toward the Companion Triangles.
Layout your triangle blocks.
Stitch triangles into rows, then add the setting triangles on both ends.
I made the lap size Radioactive, measuring 55″ X 75″. Thank you Northcott Fabrics for these beautiful fabrics. Finished with Quilter’s Dream Batting.