I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.
I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.
I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″
One day, several months ago I received a text from my sister Marti in Arizona. She frantically wanted to know how panels were needed for a One Block Wonder (OBW). I quickly answered “7” panels were needed. I thought she must have a found a fabulous panel to work with. Then about a week later I a received a package from Marti.
Marti had sent me 7 panels by Josephine Wall & 3 Wishes. I was obsessed and couldn’t wait to make this panel into a OBW. Marti said this would be me when I emerged from breast cancer treatment. She was right!
As I was working on this OBW I realized that most of the hexagons would be toward the back. I made these great stars using Studio 180 Design Star 60 Tool and the Framed 60 Technique Sheet to enhance my design. Now she is shooting for the stars and leaving cancer behind!
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM – Month 10 Victory Block: Part 1. This month you will be using Studio 180 Design V Block tool. Sarah Furrer is my helper this month.
Unit P, V Blocks will be cut from Print 1 & Print 4.
Step 1 – Cut the Center Triangles from Print 4 strips. Lay the strip out and fold over the end of the strip as shown. Position the V Block® tool on the strip so that the Fold Line for Center Triangle is on the fold and the bottom of the strip is lined up with the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool).
Step 2 – Cut along the slanted edge of the tool. Unfold the piece to reveal a Center Triangle. Flip the strip top to bottom as shown.
Step 3 – Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip, and cut the next triangle.
Step 4 – Continue to cut triangles. Flip the strip, cut a center triangle, flip, and cut again. Continue until you have 52 center triangles total.
Step 5– Position the Print 1 Side Triangle strips wrong sides or right sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Cut Line for Side Triangles line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 6– Rotate the V Block® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the angled edge of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 52 pairs of Side Triangles from Print 1.
Step 7– Lay out the center triangles and the side triangle pairs.
Step 8– Align and stitch one side triangle to the center triangle. Use care to make sure you are lining up the correct edges of both the center and side triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Do this for all center triangles.
Step 9– Position the remaining side triangles on the other side of the center triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Repeat for all units
Step 10– Trim the units. Place the V Block unit on the cutting mat right side up with the point of the Center Triangle closest to you. Position the V Block® tool on the unit, aligning the 6” Finished Size measurement with the seam lines. Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 11– Rotate the unit 180o and reposition the tool on top, aligning the trimmed edges of the unit with the Cut Size measurement of 6½” and placing the point of the Center Triangle “V” in the “X” at the top of the tool. Trim the remining two sides. Trim all 52 units.
See instructions for left hand cutting. Congratulations, you have learned another new skill and how to use the V Block tool.
I made this quilt for my sister Mary. She came with me to every doctors appointment and every cancer treatment for nine months. Mary had to wait in the car during these (winter) appointments because of COVID restrictions. She loves this pattern and I was so happy to make it for her.
I obviously can’t get enough of 60 degree triangles. I decided to take a break from One Block Wonders to play with my Star 60 Tool and make Radioactive by Deb Tucker.
Northcott Fabrics provided me with Shimmer Radiance by Deborah Edwards. These fabrics are so beautiful with a soft luscious hand and saturated colors.
Radioactive uses Star 60 units for 12″ and 6″ triangle blocks. First I cut my side triangles for my 12″ Star 60 units, then the 6″ units.
Then I cut my Diamonds using my Star 60 tool.
Once I have cut my units for both my star 60 units it is time to construct my units.
Lay out the bright Diamonds and the background side triangles as shown above. Take a triangle from the right hand side and position it on top of the diamond. Match the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond as shown; align the raw edges.
With the diamond on top, stitch along the matched edges. Press seams open.
Position a remaining triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond. Align the raw edges. With the diamond on top; stitch.
Press seams open. Both the 6″ and the 12″ Star 60 units are constructed the same way.
Choose 6 Star 60 units and 3 companion triangles and layout as shown above.
Note: 3 Star 60 units have the diamonds pointing inward and 3 are pointing outward.
Take the 3 Star 60 units that are pointing outward and position them so the raw edge with both side triangles is either by your right hand if you are right handed or left hand if you are left handed. Locate and align the Flat Edge trim lines on the tool with the seams of the diamond and trim.
Position and stitch each of the 3 trimmed Star 60 units with a Companion Triangle. Stitch with the Star 60 unit on top.
Press the seam toward the Companion Triangle or open.
Trim the Companion Triangle. Position the unit on the cutting mat so that for right handers the Companion Triangle is in the 2 o’clock position or 10 o’clock for left handers. Align the point of point of the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the point of the diamond in the Star 60 unit and the 4 1/4″ horizontal guideline on the seam. Trim the triangle.
Trim the 3 remaining Star 60 units (they are pointing inward in the layout). Position the pieced unit right side up on the cutting mat. Align the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the sewn seams. Trim along both sides of the tool.
Sew the top 3 units as shown. Press all seams open.
Stitch the remaining 3 units as shown above.
Sew the top and bottom sections together. Match the center intersection and the raw edges. Press seams open.
Trim the 12” blocks. Position the block on the cutting mat so that one point is away from you and a flat side near you. Align the 4” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seams of the Star 60 unit at the top of the block and the 8” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seam of the Companion Triangle. The 4¼”, 6¼”, and 8¼” horizontal guidelines will align with seams as well. Trim on both sides of the tool. Because the tool is smaller than the block, trim to about the halfway point on each side of the tool.
Rotate the block so that the next untrimmed point is pointing up, realign the same guidelines and trim again. Then rotate the block to trim the final point. Realign the guidelines and clean up the last point.
Follow the pattern instructions for trimming the 6″ blocks.
Align and center each accent Companion Triangle with the 6” pieced block. Stitch with an accurate ¼” seam. Press all seams toward the Companion Triangles.
Layout your triangle blocks.
Stitch triangles into rows, then add the setting triangles on both ends.
I made the lap size Radioactive, measuring 55″ X 75″. Thank you Northcott Fabrics for these beautiful fabrics. Finished with Quilter’s Dream Batting.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven‘s Journeys BOM Month 9. You all have worked so hard. This month you will learn to use your Corner Beam tool. Sue Tucker & Naz are my helpers for Month 9.
You will be working with Print 1, 4 and 11 this month.
Cutting the Center Beams
Step 1 – Stack the 7” center beam squares up to 4 layers deep. Align the Center Beam Trim #1 line on your Corner Beam® tool and the 6” finished unit line (bottom edge of tool) with the raw edges of your stack of squares. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 2 – Rotate and cut again. Lift and reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled Center Beam Trim #2 with the previously trimmed angled edge. Cut again. Do this for all your center beam squares.
Cutting the Side Triangles
Step 3 – Fold the side triangle strip right or wrong sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Side Triangles Trim #1 line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 4 – Rotatethe Corner Beam® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the bottom of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 8 pairs of side triangles from Print 11 and 4 pairs of side triangles from Print 1.
Step 5 – Lay out and organize your pieces into the correct positions as shown to ensure you sew the proper sides together.
Step 6 – Stitch the first side triangle to each center beam, making sure you sew the correct triangle edge to the center beam. Press the seams open.
Step 7 – Stitch the second side triangle to the other side of each center beam. Press each seam open
Step 8 – Position the trim down area of your Corner Beam® tool on your unit. Carefully line up the diagonal seam guidelines on the Corner Beam® tool with the diagonal seams of your unit. Trim.
Step 9 – Rotate your unit. Align the cleanup lines for the 6½” cut size with the cut edges, the V shaped guideline with the seam intersection, and the tick marks with the seams at the wide end of the beam. Trim. Repeat for all units. Label as indicated in the Unit Summary.
Assemble 4 Middle Edge Sections
It is time to assemble the four Middle Edge Sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:
Step 10 – Lay out the units as shown to create the Middle Edge Section.
Step 11 – Stitch the units together into rows. Press the seams open between the units.
Step 12 – Stitch the rows together into the Middle Edge Section. Press the seams open between rows.
Step 13 – Repeat steps 10-12 to make a total of 4 Middle Edge Sections.
Make 4 Middle Edge Sections. Congratulations on work well done!
I’ve discovered a whole new way to jazz up my One Block Wonders (OBW)!
I pin my orphan blocks to the drop ceiling in my quilt studio. As I was looking up at them I realized that a Cyclone block could be added to a Octagon OBW! You only need the Cyclone Technique Sheet and a Tucker Trimmer I.
You can make this block in 9 sizes from 4″ to 12″. This block is fun and easy. You don’t have to match up seams!
I made my octagons 6″ finished, so I will follow the instructions for 6″ finished Cyclones. I chose 3 colors from my original fabric and cut my strip sizes according to the technique sheet.
Step 1 – Piece your strips together in the order shown on the technique sheet. Pressing the seams open gives you a flatter block in the end. Your strip set should measure the “Unfinished Strip Set Width” in the chart.
Step 2 – Sub-cut your strips sets into squares using the “Unfinished Set Width” from the chart. For 6″ finished block I cut my squares 4″.
Step 3 – Cut. Position your square so that Fabric 1 runs from north east to south west. Cut the square north to south. You will get two opposite triangles, separate them into two piles. Use extreme care when making these diagonal cuts. It will effect the spin of your block.
Step 4 – Trim. Working with one one group at a time, position the triangle as above with the longest strip at the top of the triangle. Line up the edge of your Tucker Trimmer with the right side of the triangle, the the lower point of your triangle positioned at the number corresponding to your sub-cut size, for a 6″ finished block it is 4″. The lower left edge of the triangle should align with the sizing diagonal.
Cut across the top of the tool.
Step 5 – Lay out 8 of the kite shaped pieces that you just trimmed. Make sure that all of your pieces have the same fabric in the outer position.
Step 6 – Stitch two kite pieces together so that you create quadrants. Press seams open.
Step 7 – Trim. True the 90 degree corner using your Tucker Trimmer. Align the common diagonal with the seam and trim. You will only be trimming the dog ears and probably a few “whiskers” of fabric, just enough to ensure a true 90 degree.
Step 8 – Stitch together four like quadrants to create an oversized octagon. Press all seams open.
The cyclones are now the same size as my octagons made from the Lotus Leaves fabric, and you have two different cyclones from the same strip set. This is where we stop following the Cyclone Technique Sheet instructions. We will trim the cyclones when we trim the octagons.
Start to create your design layout, then add the corners to the octagons & cyclones.
You trim the cyclone block the same as the octagons but ONLY trimming the edges that will have corner stitched to them as with the octagon blocks.
Click here for the supply list to make the wall hanging shown above.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Block of the Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2. I know you all worked so hard last month on your Liberty Stars. You learned how to make Uneven Chains in month 1, so this month should be a breeze. We will again be using the Four Patch Square Up tool.
This month we will be using prints 6, 10 & 11
Step 1 – Stitch your strips together into Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam.
Step 2 – Press your strip sets. In all strip sets, press toward Print 6. A helpful pressing tip: whatever you are pressing toward goes on top.
Step 3 – Sub-cut the strip sets using the information in the diagrams above. Make sure to use the correct sub-cut size for the strip set you are working with and cut the correct number of pieces needed.
Step 4 – Lay out the pieces from Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C as shown. Stitch an A piece to one side of the C piece and Stitch a B piece to the other side. Make sure you sew the correct piece on each side so that it looks like the diagram.
Step 5 – Press the unit so that the seams spin. To spin the seam, lay the last sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the two or three threads in the center on both sides that run north to south, and press so all the seams go in the same direction.
Step 6 – Trim the unit to size. Position the unit as shown on your cutting mat and locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square up® tool. The finished sizes are located above the words Finished Size Four Patches – Center. Position the circle over the seam intersection between the small and large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines radiating from the circle align with your seams.
Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees. Align the 3” finished size circle over the other intersection of the small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines align with your seams and that the 6½” cut size clean up lines align with the outside trimmed edges. Trim the remaining two sides. Once all 16 units are made, label them Unit L.
Congratulations, you’ve completed month 8 and I’ll bet you are even more comfortable using the Four Patch Square Up tool.
Remember, you can go back and search for any of the Journey’s posts, they are never deleted and I’m always available for questions.
Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.
I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.
I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.
I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.
Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.
Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.
Make the first cut.
From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.
You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.
Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.
Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.
Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.
Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.
Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.
Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.
Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.
Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.
As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journey BOM – Month 7 Liberty Star. This month, you will be using the 12” markings on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool, but you will be working with them as quarters that will be trimmed to 6½” using your Tucker Trimmer 1 before you sew them into the quilt.
Note: Some of your strip sizes are in sixteenths of an inch. These are necessary in order to equally divide the diamond into three sections. To cut the sixteenth of an inch you will see that after the sixteenth measurement there is a 1¼”+ listed. This means that you should locate the 1¼” mark on your ruler then move up just a bit to get to a 1⁵/16” measurement. You want to be as close to the half way point between the ¼” mark and the ⅜” mark as possible.
You will be using the standard Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star strip piecing for the “B” sections and fussy cut piecing for the “A” sections.
Step 1 – Lay out the Print 1, Print 2, and Print 8 strips as shown in the diagram.
Stitch together Print 2, Print 8 & Print 1, making four strip sets.
Step 2 – Stitch the strips into 4 strip sets, two will be used to create your “A” sections and two will be used to create your “B” sections.
Step 3 – Press all the seams toward Print 2, the widest strip.
Tip: To keep strip sets straight while pressing – it helps to draw a line on your ironing board with a sharpie and ruler. If the strip set wants to curve just keep re-adjusting it along the straight line.
Tip: After stitching your strips together measure the strip set to be sure it measures 3 1/4″ wide.
“B” Section Construction
Step 4 – Sew a strip set from step 3 on page 19 to a background strip to make a “B” section strip. Stagger your pieced strip 4¾” down the background strip. Be sure to sew the Print 1 to the Print 11 background strip. Press the seam toward your colored strip set. Make two.
Step 5 – Cut the “B” sections by placing the strip set right side up on the cutting mat. Make your first diagonal cut to clean up the end and set your angle. Then sub-cut the strip set into 3¼” sections. You will need a total of 16 sub-cuts.
Note: When cutting the Section B segments, place your 45 degree line on a seam to help establish the correct angle. Section B sections are cut 3 1/4″ wide. Cut almost to the end of the ruler and move the ruler up re-aligning the ruler on the 3 1/4″ line.
Step 6 – Cut Again. Make a vertical “second cut” to each sub-cut section. Make sure to leave a small gap between the tip of the diamond and the start of your vertical cut. One quarter of an inch will suffice.
Step 7 – Lay out, stitch, and press your pieced “B” sections toward the small side triangles you just stitched.
Remember, “whatever you are pressing toward goes on top”, so lay your pieced units on the ironing board with the small triangles on top and press.
“A” Section Construction
Step 8 – Cut the 4¾” x 4¾” Print 11 squares in half diagonally. Make the diagonal cut ¼” from the true diagonal to create small and large half square triangles.
Tip: You can use your regular ruler or your Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star tool to make the diagonal cuts as shown below.
Step 9 – Cut the remaining two colored strip sets into individual diamonds. Place a strip right side up on the cutting mat as shown, align the 3¼” window template on the back end of the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool over the strip set and cut up the side. Rotate the first diamond and again align the 3¼” lines with the edges of the diamond and trim off the excess fabric. Continue repositioning the tool and cutting using the 3¼” window template until you have 16 diamonds.
Step 10 – Lay out, stitch, and press. Lay out the fussy cut diamonds, the large and small half square triangles right sides up as shown. Be sure Print 1 (Dark Blue) is positioned by the small triangle.
Stitch the large triangles in place first and press the seam toward the background fabric.
Stitch the small triangles next and press these seams toward the diamond section. Make 16 “A” star points.
Step 11 – Trim all “A” and “B” triangle sections using the 12” line on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool. See diagram. Pay Attention here! It’s easy to forget this step.
Step 12 – Assemble quarters. Arrange the sewn and trimmed “A” and “B” sections into quarter blocks. Stitch the sections together and press the seams open to best distribute bulk. You should have 16 quarters total.
Step 13 – Trim the quarters to 6½” x 6½”. Clean up the dog ears and true up the first corner as shown. You should only be trimming off the dog ears and an additional thread or two in this trim. Then rotate the unit to trim the opposite corner. Align the common diagonal with the seam and the 6½” clean up lines with the trimmed edges to trim the remaining two sides. Repeat for all 16 quarters.
Step 14 – Assemble the quarters into the center block. Lay out the quarters as shown and sew them together into rows. Press the seams open.
Step 15 – Stitch the rows together and press the seams open. Label this Section K.