Tag Archives: OBW’s

Rainbow Forest OBW #90

Rainbow Forest by Alexander Henry

I saw this fabric by Alexander Henry and just had to have it. It is a large print with a 24″ repeat and is full of vibrant colors. I knew I want to add a large star constructed from Star 60 & Quad 60 units.

I made 3″ finished Quad 60 and Star 60 units.

I thought I would incorporate this 12″ hexagon into my design as is.

But, I decided to add points turning it into a 24″ star by adding 6″ finished Quad 60’s for the points.

The photo’s above show how I made the 6″ hexagons and the 24″ star fit together.

Rainbow Forest, measure 64″ x 68″

Rainbow Forest is not yet quilted, but it will be soon.

There’s a Bat in the Belfry OBW #89

I have been on a journey this year to see how many stars and shapes I can place in a One Block Wonder.

Timeless Treasures Last Dance

I found this great fabric from Timeless Treasures called “Last Dance”. The Skeletons are about 6 1/2″ tall.

Octagons

Last Dance made some great octagons. I wanted to add a bat in my design also.

Moonlight Flight

My friend and fellow Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Beth Sidley designs great patterns. I love Moonlight Flight and decided to use her bat for my quilt. You can purchase Moonlight Flight from her Etsy shop Park Bench Designs.

Twisted Wedge

I also wanted to add stars representing cobwebs using the Twisted Wedge Technique Sheet and the Wedge Star Tool. The bat is made using the Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star and Moonlight Flight pattern.

You can see how using the lemoyne star quarters fit to makes the bat.

Once I added the octagon corners I could stitch the rows together.

There’s a Bat in the Belfry measures 63″ x 69″

It looks like my bat took flight and spread the cobwebs everywhere!

Celestial Journey – OBW # 88

I love Josephine Wall’s art, her fabric panels are glorious. They make spectacular One Block Wonders.

Celestial Journey panel measures 35″ x 43″

These panels must have been either the beginning of the run or the last. The outer edges were off be about 1/2″. I focused on aligning the panels around the unicorn. The outer edges were mostly space so it was not crucial they be perfectly aligned. I cut my strips 3.75″ by WOF.

Celestial Journey, 76″ x 100″

I wanted to give my travelers a destination. I created a nearby galaxy for them consisting of stars created using my Star 60 Tool and 5 technique sheets: Quad 60, Framed 60, Striped 60, Checkerboard 60, Capped 60.

#studio180design #Star60 #Quad60 #Framed60, #Striped60 #Checkerboard60 #Capped60 #QuiltersDreamBatting #Bernina740

DreamScapes – OBW #87 & Quad 60

I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.

I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.

I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″

#studio180design #DebTucker #Star60 #Quad60 #Northcottfabrics #Quiltersdreambatting #Irakennedy

Spirit of Flight – OBW #86

One day, several months ago I received a text from my sister Marti in Arizona. She frantically wanted to know how panels were needed for a One Block Wonder (OBW). I quickly answered “7” panels were needed. I thought she must have a found a fabulous panel to work with. Then about a week later I a received a package from Marti.

Spirit of Flight by Josephine Wall

Marti had sent me 7 panels by Josephine Wall & 3 Wishes. I was obsessed and couldn’t wait to make this panel into a OBW. Marti said this would be me when I emerged from breast cancer treatment. She was right!

Spirit of Flight measures 97″ x 71″

As I was working on this OBW I realized that most of the hexagons would be toward the back. I made these great stars using Studio 180 Design Star 60 Tool and the Framed 60 Technique Sheet to enhance my design. Now she is shooting for the stars and leaving cancer behind!

#studio180design #star60 #framed60 #3wishesfabric #josephinewall #Bernia #Nolting #Quiltersdreambatting

Flowers of the Sun – OBW #84 & the Diamond Four Patch Wedge

Continuing my journey to create interesting embellishments for my hexagon and octagon One Block Wonders (OBW’s). I created fabulous stars using Studio 180 Design’s Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet and the Wedge Star Tool.

Flowers of the Sun by South Sea Imports

Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.

Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite

I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.

I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.

I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.

Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.

Make the first cut.

From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.

You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.

Pair a section “A” with a section “B”
Mark seam intersection

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.

Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.

Stitch
Press your seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.

Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.

Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.

Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.

Diamond Four Patch Wedge
18″ Diamond Star Wedge

Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.

Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.

As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.

Tucker Trimmer I

Tucker Trimmer III

Flowers of the Sun measures 65″ X 77″.

Misty Jungle OBW #83 with Capped 60 Cubes

I pulled this 2004 Alexander Henry fabric called Misty Jungle from my stash to play with adding Capped 60 cubes to my OBW.

Alexander Henry Misty Jungle

Although the fabric has a 24″ repeat the design elements were about 3 to 4 inches, so I decided to cut my strips 3 1/4″ to make 5″ finished hexagons. Using my Star 60 tool, I cut my equilateral triangles.

Once I designed my hexies to get an almost final design, It’s time to decide about cubes. I am using Deb Tucker’s Capped 60 Techniques Sheet. The Capped 60 Technique Sheet offers cutting instruction for 17 sizes in whole & half inch increments.

Capped 60 Unit

Above is a Capped 60 Unit. The cutting instructions are based on finished units. I cut my triangles for a 5″ finished hexagon, which would mean my individual triangles would measure 3″ unfinished and 2 1/2″ finished.

We begin by choosing 3 fabrics, light, medium and dark values. Where you place the light fabric gives the illusion of light shinning on it. The strips for both the trapezoids and triangles are the same width.

Cutting Trapezoids. I am making 2 1/2″ finished units so I cut 2″ strips and placed the 3 1/2″ Bottom Horizontal Line on the bottom of my strip to cut my trapezoids. Then rotate the Star 60 tool and place the 3 1/2″ line on the top of the strip and continue cutting trapezoids.

Cutting Triangles. Align the mark near the tip of the tool with the top of the strip and the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the width of the strip and cut. Rotate the Star 60 tool and continue cutting your triangles.

For each cubed hexagon you will need 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark trapezoids, and 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark triangles.

To make this cube begin by laying out your trapezoids and triangles shown above.

Align one edge of the triangle with the top of the trapezoid, matching the flat edge of the triangle to the top of the trapezoid as shown above.

Once you have laid out your trapezoids and triangles and know what triangles are to be stitched to what trapezoids you can chain stitch and make the process go fast.

Stitch and press seams open. Your unit consists of the Point, Left Side, Right Side and Base.

Trimming the Base. Position the unit so that the base is on the right if right handed or left if left handed. Align the Diamond Point Guideline that corresponds to the finished size of the unit on the seam between the triangle and trapezoid as shown. Trim the base along the side of the ruler.

Trimming the Right and/or Left Side. Locate the Triangle Point Trim Line in the chart for your size. Position the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the Triangle Point Trim Line on the seam between the trapezoid and triangle. Trim both sides.

Layout your trimmed units and stitch them into pairs of three as you do your equilateral triangles for the hexagons. Press seams open.

I chose to make Capped 60 Cubes in three color ways. I auditioned them in several places before deciding on the best placement.

Misty Jungle, OBW 83, measures 61″ x 62″

When I cut my strips for the hexagons I had 2 1/2″ left, not enough for the hexies. I decided to cut out smaller triangles to add to a border.

To give the illusion that the hexies are floating I added Half Hexies cut from the border fabric. The instructions for cutting Half Hexagons are located on page 10 of your Star 60 Instructions.

Click here to download Star 60 Instructions:

Sensational Squares with the Square/Squared Tool

I just finished quilting “Lion Eyes” Octagonal One Block Wonder. I had 18 Sensational Squares sets left over.

Remember, Sensational Squares are the triangles that fill the space between the octagons.

I wanted to add the left over Sensational Squares to the borders of the quilt.

I made my Sensational Squares into Square/Squared units using my Studio 180 Design Square/Squared tool.

There are 3 parts to this tool.

The Center Square Section, which gives you a series of squares that are precisely drafted so that their diagonal measurement is exactly the finished size of the Square²™ unit.

The Trim Down Section gives you guide lines to align with the seams of the pieced Square²™ unit so you can trim each to a precise size with a proper ¼” seam allowance on all sides.

The Size Chart for Triangles gives the recommended size squares to cut that when cut in half diagonally will yield two slightly oversized triangles for constructing the unit.

Note: The fabric in the photo is different from the Lion Eyes.

Per my Wedge Star Instructions I had cut my Large Wedges from 4″ strips and my Corner Squares from 3″ strips (you must have at least 4 aligned repeats). Cut 3″ square sets.

Cut your square sets once diagonally.

Each stack of 4 half square triangles will give you one 4 Patch Posie.

Stitch 2 triangles together and press the seams the same way on both halves.

The seams will nest when stitching the halves together.

Swirl the seams and press.

Use your Square²™ ruler to precision cut your center squares from your 4 Patch Posie. I lined up the diagonal line on the tool with the diagonal seam centering the lines for a 4″ finished square making sure I had fabric to trim on all 4 sides. Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the unit lining up the just trimmed sides with the size lines and the diagonal line with the diagonal seam and trim up the side and across the top. The Square²™ unit looks great with a fussy cut square in the center or simply cut chosen fabric as usual. Just remember that this square will be diagonal in the pieced unit.

The 4 Patch Posie is now trimmed and ready for oversized triangles.

Check the chart on the Square/Squared Tool for strip size to cut squares for side triangles. I’m making 4″ finished units so I cut my strips from a folded strip 3 1/4″ wide.

Cut once diagonally.

Position two triangles on opposite sides of the center square. No need to fuss with matching the middles as the triangles are larger than they need to be. Just basically center them and try to keep the raw edges aligned.

Press seams away from the center square.

Position remaining two triangles on the remaining two sides of the center square. Again, don’t fuss too much with aligning the centers, just get them close. Stitch and press the triangles away from the center square.

Ready for the trim.

Position the Trim Down Section of the Square²™ ruler over the pieced unit. Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit over the sewn seams. If they do not line up exactly, simply center the ruler over the area by finding the middle ground of all four marks. Trim up the side and across the top. For the second cut, rotate the unit, position the ruler on top of unit again lining up the “X’s”, and also lining up the cleanup lines on the ruler with the edges previously trimmed.

This ensures that you end up with a square that has proper ¼” seams on all sides and is exactly the correct size to use in your quilt project. I added 1″ strips to two sides of the units to make the units measure 4 1/2″ by 6 1/2″. I did this so when I add the binding I won’t lose the points on my square/squared unit. Measuring the correct lengths I cut the 6 1/2″ strips to add to my border additions.

The Square/Squared tool makes finished diamond in square units in six sizes from 1″ to 6″. If you require mores sizes you can purchase the Large Square/Squared Tool which can make them in sizes from 1″ to 12″.

Rainbow Kitty OBW #82 & the Star 60 Tool

The official name for this quilt is Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty. This quilt was made with love for my Granddaughter Sam. It was supposed to be finished for Christmas but it is in time for my special Valentine.

Panel by Chong-A-Hwang for Timeless Treasures

Why did I choose 5.5″ Finished Hexagons?

This panel measured 23 inches wide. I chose 5.5″ (Cut my strips 3.5″) finished hexies because 4 X 5.5 = 22″. Now I only have trim 1/2″ from both sides and my hexies will fit along the bottom and the top of the panel.

Checkerboard 60

I wanted to add a large star to my design. Using my Star 60 Tool and Checkerboard 60 Technique Sheet I was able to make a great star.

I began by deciding on what size to make my star. I wanted it twice as big as my 5.5″ finished hexies, hmmm, that means an 11″ finished star. The Checkerboard Technique sheet makes beautiful stars in 17 sizes from 2″ up to 18″ in 1″ increments. I needed to make 5.5″ Finished units. I followed technique sheet instructions for a 6″ Finished Units and will trim them so they would finish at 5.5″ units.

Step 1 – Make two strip sets.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other right sides down. Using the Star 60 tool and a regular ruler establish the 60 degree angle.

From the first cut, cut additional angled sections the same width as the as the cut size of the diamond strips.

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure the inner and outer diamonds are oriented correctly. The pink diamonds will be the inner part of my star. The outer diamonds are yellow.

Mark 1/4″ seam allowance using the Magic Wand.

On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams on the wrong side.

Pin section A & B

Stitch your section “A” with Section “B” units.

Press the seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer diamond using the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the Outer Diamond Trim Guidelines for a 5″ finished unit.

First cut.

Continue cutting side triangles.

Step 5 – Add the side triangles.

Layout the right side triangles.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the diamond. (Whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

Layout the left side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

After it is stitched, but before you press, trim the unit as shown above to remove bulk.

Press toward the side triangle.

Step 6 – Trim the pieced Star 60 unit suing the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the 5″ finished unit guidelines.

Step 7 – Describes the trimming the final edge. I did not complete this trim. Remember, I need an 11″ finished star, which means I need 5.5″ finished units. I accomplished this by trimming the diamonds per the 5″ guidelines. I created an 11″ finished star by NOT trimming the outer edges of the star.

Layout your diamond units.

Stitch your diamond units together creating two halves.

Making Star 60’s – To make 5.5″ finished Stars, I am following the cutting instructions for 3″ Finished Units. Remember, the chart refers to UNITS not to Finished Stars! To use the chart, first determine the desired finished size of your unit, then follow the row across for the strip size for the shape you want to cut.

Cutting the Diamonds – I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units. Trim one short edge at a 60 degree angle as shown above. Locate the Diamond Sub-Cut Guideline in the chart which for 3″ finished units is 4″. Align those guidelines with the raw edges of the strip and the angled cut just made as shown in the diagram. Cut along the leading edge of the tool to create oversized diamond shapes.

Cut your side triangles. For 3″ finished units the side triangle strips are 2 1/2″.

Layout the right side triangle.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the Diamond. Layout the remaining side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

Trim the bulk as shown above.

Press toward the side triangle.

I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units, BUT I’m making 5.5″ finished stars, so I’m trimming the Diamond Point using the 2 1/2″ guidelines. I do not trim the outer edges of the unit to obtain a 5.5″ finished star.

Star 60 Units

Stitch units into two halves.

Designing With the Hexagons

The final layout

After I numbered my rows, I stitched the four rows above the checkerboard star into two rows, and the same with the four rows under the checkerboard star as shown in photo 1. Photo 2 shows stitching the top and bottom row to the checkerboard star halves. Photo 3 shows the two rows joined together.

Continue to stitch rows into 4 sections, Left, Right, Top & Bottom.

I placed the bottom section right sides together to verify how much I need to trim off the sides of the panel so it will be the same width as the top and bottom hexies. In this case I trimmed 1/2″ off both sides.

You can choose to attach either the top or bottom hexies first. I chose the bottom because I wanted to control where the hexies attached to the bottom of the panel. After the hexies are laid out and stitched together we loose 1/4″ between them. I felt I could safely loose a couple of inches off the top of the panel without affecting the design. But I did not want to loose inches off the panel bottom.

I pressed the bottom hexies under 1/4″ and top stitched them to the panel.

Match up the hexies/dog ears of the left side with hexies/dog ears on the bottom. Stitch leaving about 12″ from the top of the panel.

Place the panel and partially stitched left side on a table and place the top hexies on top of the panel matching up the dog ears to establish where the top hexies will be stitched to the panel.

Pin top to the panel being sure the dog ears match up to the left side hexies.

Top Stitch the top hexies to the panel. Finish stitching the left side to the panel and top hexies.

Match up the dog ears of the right side and stitch.

Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty, measures 75″ X 70″. I will quilt it as soon as the backing arrives.

Something Fishy – OBW #81 & the Wedge Star Tool

Something Fishy was made with fabric called Atlantis by Sentimental Studios for Moda. I have had this 6 yard piece in my One Block Wonder (OBW) stash for 12 o 13 years. Evidently I like to age my fabric before I cut it up.

This is my second octagon OBW. Like hexagon OBW’s, octagon OBW’s can be made in many sizes. I will show you how to use the Wedge Star Tool Instructions to choose different size octagons and add different octagon blocks to your quilt. The numbered steps in this post refer to steps outlined in the Wedge Star Tool Instructions. The basic octagon OBW is made with 45 degree wedges as sown below. The Wedge Star tool instructions refer to this as the Wedge Block. We use the Wedge Block instructions to make the basic octagon OBW.

The Wedge Block instructions begin on page 7
The Wedge Star Block instructions begin on page 3

The Mixed Block can be made up of any combination of Diamond Wedges and Large Wedges, plus four corner triangles.

Download the Wedge Star Instructions here:

Cutting Chart

Use the chart on page 2 of the Wedge Star instructions, find your desired finished block size (first column), then follow the row across to determine the strip and square sizes you need to cut.

I chose 6″ finished blocks. From the first column follow to right to the “Large Wedge Strip” and see to cut the wedge strips 4″ Width of Fabric (WOF) and “Corner Square” strips 3″ by WOF.

After I have aligned my 8 repeats and trimmed one long edge so all the repeats end in the same place, I re-measure my repeat to verify how many strips I can cut.

Note: For every 2 Large Wedge strips you will need to cut 1 Corner Square strip.

I ended up with 22″ trimmed repeats, so I was able to cut four 4″ Large Wedge WOF Strips and two 3″ WOF Corner Square strips for 6″ finished octagons.

Wedge Block

Cutting the Large Wedges (Page 7, Step 2.01)

When making an octagonal OBW, we are cutting 8 layers of fabric at once. Our Large Wedge and Corner Square strips are from one fabric. Putting a new blade in your rotary cutter is important!

The cutting instructions on page 2 show you how to cut your wedges with the strip placed horizontally on the mat. I prefer to cut the wedges by placing my strips vertically on the mat. Try both and see what works best for you.

Wedges cut from one strip

Cutting the Corner Triangles (Step 2.02)

I use my Tucker Trimmer I to cut my Corner Squares from my 3″ WOF strips.

Once your Corner Squares are cut, cut them once diagonally. Each set of corner triangles contains 8 identical corner triangles. When cutting the squares diagonally, consider what design elements will be in both halves.

Constructing the Wedge Block (Step 2.03)

From each stack of 8 wedges, stitch 2 together making 4 pair, press seams open.

Remove the Dog Ears (Step 2.06)

Step 2.06

Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the wedge pair. Position the Wedge Pair on the cutting mat. Righties as shown above position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right (see tool instructions for left handed cutting). Align the common diagonal line on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam and slide it forward just until it meets with either edge or the point of the wedge, trim up the side and across the top. There may only be a few whiskers trimmed here. Trim all the wedge pairs.

Match up the points, stitch into halves, press seams open (Step 2.08).

Tip: Find the center of one wedge half by placing a pin where seams meet and go through the second wedge half in the same place. Align the two halves, pin on both sides of the center pin.

Remove the center pin and stitch the halves together. Press seams open.

It helps to place your octagon blocks on a design wall as you finish them.

The next step (Step 2.09), is to trim the octagon wedges that will have a corner triangle stitched to them. But before that I want to make some Wedge Star & Mixed Blocks to enhance my octagons and strengthen certain colors .

Wedge Star Block (Page 3)

Cutting the Diamonds (Step 1.01)

All my octagons will be 6″ finished blocks. Go to the chart on page 2, find the first column “Finished Block Size” move down to 6″, move across the row to “Diamond Strip”. Cut the Diamonds strips 1 3/4″ by WOF. Trim one short edge at 45 degree angle by placing the 1/4″ line of your Wedge Star tool on the top edge of the strip. Using a regular 6″by 12″ ruler, bump it up to the Wedge Star tool placing the 45 degree line of the ruler on the bottom edge of the strip.

Remove the Wedge Star tool and cut using the regular ruler.

The rule here is to cut your diamonds the same width as the diamond strip. Continue cutting Diamonds every 1 3/4″ using the ruler. See tool instructions for left handed cutting.

I wanted two color Diamonds so I chose two fabrics.

Cutting the Small Wedges (Step 1.02)

Following the chart for 6″ finished blocks, move across to the “Small Wedge Strip”. Cut the Small Wedge strips 2 3/4″ wide, WOF.

Align the small mark near the top of the tool with the top of the strip, and the line on the tool that corresponds with the width of the strip (2 3/4″).

Step 1.04 – Rotate the Wedge Star tool 180 degrees so the sharp point is closest to you. Align the same guidelines as before and continue cutting the wedges. (I prefer to place my strips vertically when cutting the wedges. Find what works best for you.)

Two fabric color Small Wedges, blue & teal.

Note: We are skipping from Step 1.04 to Step 1.06 because we are making a OBW and will address the corners later.

Piecing the Diamond Wedges

Step 1.06 – Lay out the Diamonds and Small Wedges as shown. I am making two color diamonds first I laid out the Yellow diamonds with the blue small wedges.

Step 1.07 – Take a small wedge from the right hand side and position it it on top.

Note: My interpretation is to place a diamond right sides together with a small wedge as show above.

Stitch small wedges to the diamonds right sides together as show above. Press toward the Diamonds.

Note: Remember that “whatever you are pressing toward goes on top”! So, you would place all your units with the diamond on top.

Step 1.08 – With the Diamond on top, stitch along the matched edges with a ¼” seam. Press the seam toward the Diamond and trim off the “dog ear”. Repeat with the rest of the diamonds.

Trim the Dog Ears

Step 1.09 & 1.10

Step 1.09 – Using the other pile of Small Wedges, take one and position it on the other side of the Diamond point. Align the raw edges and center the shapes right sides together as shown above.

Step 1.10 – With the Diamond on top, stitch with a ¼” seam. Press the seam toward the Small Wedge. Repeat with the rest of the Diamonds.

Step 1.11 – Use the Wedge Star™ tool to trim each Diamond Wedge unit to an exact size.

Step 1.12 – Position the unit right side up on the cutting mat. Righties point the Diamond toward the 2 o’clock position, lefties point the Diamond toward the 10 o’clock position. Align the desired finished block size lines with the sewn seams. Trim along both sides of the ruler. See tool instructions for left handed cutting.

Layout wedges. Stitch wedges together into pairs.

Press seams open.

Step 1.13 – Remove the “dog ears”.

Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the wedge pair. Position the Wedge Pair on the cutting mat. Righties as shown above position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right (see tool instructions for left handed cutting). Align the common diagonal line on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam and slide it forward just until it meets with eight the edge or the point of the wedge, trim up the side and across the top. There may only be just a few whiskers trimmed her. Trim all the wedge pairs.

Step 1.15 – Stitch quarters in halves, then stitch halves together, pressing seams open.

Step 1.16 – To turn your octagon into a square you will need to add triangles to the corners. Determine which wedge sections will be located in the corners of your
finished block. Align the Outside Edge Trim Line on the Wedge Star™ tool with the seams of the Diamond on one corner wedge. Trim along the edge of the tool. Repeat this for the other three corners, making sure you are only trimming every other edge. The remaining edges will be trimmed after the corners are added.

Trim Mixed blocks the same as the Wedge Star Block
Final layout.

Mixed Blocks – See page 10

Mixed block variations combining wedge star and large wedge units.

Mixed blocks are made by simply combining Wedge Stars with Large Wedges as shown above. Once I made several Wedge Star Blocks and Mixed Blocks I added them to my other octagons. The fabric choices for my Wedge Stars and Mixed blocks was to strengthen my orange/golds and turquoises.

Prepping Wedge Blocks for adding the Corners: If there is a way to square up a difficult unit/block Deb Tucker will find it!

Step 2.09 (Pg. 8) – Determine which Large Wedges are going to have Corner Triangles attached.
Step 2.10 – Make a halfway registration mark on these four wedges. Wedges can be folded in half matching the seams and then lightly pressed to give a centerfold line. Or the centerline of the tool can be placed on the sewn seam with the point of the tool at the center. Mark with a removable marking tool.

Note: Add a flower pin to the top wedge unit for each block to aid in orientation. This will help you throughout the trimming process.


Step 2.11 – Place your Wedge Star® tool upside down, with the Invisigrip™ facing up. Find the Block Center dimension for your project on the chart.


Step 2.12 – Measure down that distance from the flat edge of the tool and make a mark on the back of the tool, across the centerline as illustrated. Use a fine point Sharpie® marker. For our example, make a mark 3¼” from the tool edge.

Step 2.13 – Working on your cutting mat, place the intersection of the centerline of the tool and the Sharpie® marked line on the center of the sewn block. At the same time, align the centerline of the tool with the halfway registration mark on the fabric block.

Step 2.14 – Cut along the flat edge of the tool. You should only be trimming off a small amount of fabric. If you are trimming more than ¼”, recheck your tool mark!

Step 2.15 – Repeat for the other three Corner Wedges.


For prepping Wedge Star & Mixed Blocks for adding corners see tool instructions page 5, Step 1.16.

Add Corners:

Block corners are trimmed and ready for Corners

Choose corner triangles that will help blend the octagons and create flow.

When four octagons are put together, there is a diamond spaced shape between them. You fill this space with 4 identical triangles cut from the 3″ Corner Strip.

Keep adding corners to the octagons and place back on the design wall.

Corners have been added to all the inner octagons.

I add corners to all the inner octagons first, then continue adding them to the outer edges.

Now all the octagons have 4 corner

Squaring up the Octagon Blocks

Step 2.18 – For blocks that finish to 12” or less, we prefer to use our Tucker Trimmer®. Consult the Block Cut Size in the chart and align the common diagonal and sizing diagonal with the marks made for the previous trimming. Make sure that the intersection of the tool lines is over the center. Trim two sides. Rotate the block 180° and line up the diagonal lines as well as the clean up lines with the trimmed edges. Trim the final two sides.

My octagon blocks will be 6″ finished. Therefore, I can use my Tucker Trimmer I and square up my blocks to 6 1/2″. Make sure the intersecting lines for 6 1/2″ are over the center of the block and trim as shown above.

All my octagons are now trimmed to 6 1/2″ and are ready to be sewn into rows.

Tip: To line up your blocks, pin where the seams intersect on both blocks. Pin on both sides, then pull out the pin in the seams and stitch.

See how nicely the points line up when the blocks are trimmed and squared.

Something Fishy

Something Fishy, 72″ x 72″

As you can see, this project was closely supervised by Tucker!

Included in your Wedge Star Tool Instructions is a free project “Freelancer”.

Freelancer

Download the Freelancer Supply list in 3 sizes: