Prism

The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Northcott.

I have been chosen to participate in Northcott’s Creative Club. If you have not used Northcott fabrics before you will be pleasantly surprised. Just like their logo says “Cottons that feel like Silk”!

I chose to make Prism, a pattern created by Pam Goggans of Sager Creek Quilts. Prism is a companion pattern for the Studio 180 Design Split Rects Tool.

One of my favorite Disney movies is “Pollyanna”. Remember this scene when they discover “rainbow makers”? I do, and that is the inspiration for my version of Prism.

My fabrics are from Artisan Spirit Shimmer By Deborah Edwards Northcott Studio. Aren’t they just yummy, looks like a rainbow to me!

I am a purveyor of paper plates! I use them to stay organized throughout the quilt making process. I cut everything out but the borders (I save that till the end so I can verify my measurements) and place them on their labeled paper plate. I can stack them up in a tub or place them in gallon size storage bags when I’m not working on them.

Split Rects Units

To make mirror image split rects units, lay the fabric strip “right sides together OR wrong sides together. Position the ruler on the strip with the broad black line against the trimmed end of the strip and the desired finished size guide and trim along the slanted edge. For the second cut, rotate the tool one half turn and align the small second trim “nub” line on the long edge of the strip and the “Second Trim” guide along the just-trimmed edge. Trim along the straight edge of the tool.

I am right handed, so my strips are placed horizontally and I cut from left to right. Left hander’s would place their strips vertically. See tool instructions for complete left handed cutting.

Continue to cut all the pieces for the split rects units.

Lay out the pieces as they will be stitched together. Stitch the elongated triangles by placing them right sides together with the long, bias edge of the pieces aligned. Center the two pieces with just a bit of overlap at the ends.

Press the seams either toward the darker fabric or open. As you can see I press mine open.

Align either the “Common Diagonal” or the “Size Diagonal” with the seam you have sewn. These will vary depending on the slant of the seam in your unit. Check to make sure that the fabric unit is completely contained within the trim down lines. For right hander’s trim up the side and across the top.

Rotate the unit and reposition the tool on top. Align the correct “Cut Size” measurement with the trimmed corner and the same diagonal line used in the first trim. Trim the remaining two edges of the unit.

Above I have laid out my trimmed mirror image split rects units.

Double Split Rects Units

After trimming the split rects units to the correct “Cut Size” choose 24 mirror image units to make special Double Split Rects!

According to pattern instructions trim away the excess of the colored triangle. Make sure to position the left leaning units right side up and the right leaning units right side down.

Using the Split Rects Tool, cut triangles from the accent fabric according to pattern instructions.

Lay out the trimmed units and the replacement triangles.

Stitch the dark triangles to the trimmed units. I press my seams open.

Trim as before. Place right leaning unit right side up and left leaning unit wrong side up.

I laid out my units on the design wall, and then I noticed two units were missing! Tucker my Chihuahua decided I had ignored her long enough. This is her way getting my attention. I found the units upstairs by a guilty grinning Tucker!

I stitched the units for the quilt center together and then added the borders. The secret to this quilt is to use your best accurate 1/4″ seam!

I quilted Prism with a meandering stitch. (All that meander are not lost.)

The Northcott Artisan Spirit Shimmer fabric line was perfect for this quilt! I love it!

Even the quilt back is beautiful Northcott fabric!

I used Quilter’s Dream Blend Batting, and I do all my piecing with Aurifil thread!

Vintage Quilts Inspiring New Creations

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The April challenge for the Island Batik Ambassador’s is to “Look Back” and get inspired! Not a problem for me. My inspiration stems from the Hunter Star quilt. This quilt is on many quilter’s bucket lists. The quilt shown below represents a traditional hunter star layout.

I love Deb Tucker’s Rapid Fire Hunter Star tools. Once you learn the Rapid Fire Process you will be able to make any version of the Hunter Star Quilt. I went to Deb Tucker’s new book “Hunter Star Royal Treasures” for my inspiration. This book contains 40 different king & queen size hunter star layouts, including one from me “Waves of Joy”. But what got my attention were the “Alternative” layouts. Wow what a difference a little change can make. Instead of the traditional piecing of the dark trapezoid to the dark triangle or a light trapezoid to a light triangle, do the reverse and piece a dark trapezoid to a light triangle and vice versa.

I chose “Baths of Tortola”, designed & pieced by Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Heidi Chase (Running With Scissors Quilters). Heidi’s quilt is a queen size, 8 x 10 block layout, made with the Large Hunter Star tool & 9″ finished blocks. (The photo on the left of my smaller version of Baths of Tortola (50″x60″) was taken on one of the many trees we lost during one of the many nor’easters this winter.)

I wanted to make a smaller quilt, so I pulled out my Petite Hunter Star tool, and my Field Guide. This fabulous little book gave me the fabric requirements for a 5″ Hunter Star Petite, 8 by 10 block layout in a two color option. Sweeeet! This book gives you yardage requirements and cutting instructions for 213 projects in 2, 3 & 4 color options for 5″, 6″ 7″ and 8″ block sizes from wall hanging to king size projects.

I pulled my Crystal Cove Water Aqua & Cotton Egg-white Island Batik fabric choices from my stash.

I start by cutting my triangle, star point & trapezoid strips in both colors.

From my 5″ triangle strips I cut 5″ squares and cut them once diagonally and set them aside for later.

As a righty, I lay my trapezoid strip horizontally on my cutting mat with the selvedges to the left. (Left handed cutting options are included in the tool instructions.) The strip can be either right or wrong sides together. I’m making 5″ finished blocks so I place the 5″ line on my hunter star tool on the bottom of the strip and begin cutting my trapezoids for both colors.

I cut my star point strips in half and divide them into 4 piles. The two aqua piles will be the star points on both ends of the light trapezoids and the two light piles will be the star points on both ends of the aqua trapezoids. Begin by positioning the trapezoids right sides together with the star point strip, staggering down from the top 2 1/4″, spacing the trapezoids about 1/4″ apart and stitch. The hunter star tool instructions give detailed guidance.

Once the trapezoids are stitched to the star point strip, place the strip set on the ironing board with star strip on the bottom and the trapezoids on top and carefully press as shown. Lay the strip vertically on the cutting mat and trim using the Hunter Star tool.

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I now have an oversized star point on one end of my trapezoid. This time I add my trapezoids starting from the bottom and spacing them about 1/4″ apart and stitch them. Lay the strip on the ironing board with the trapezoids on the bottom and the star strip on top and carefully press toward the star strip. (Remember: whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

Lay the strip horizontally on the cutting mat and trim according to the instructions. Repeat this process for both colors.

The light and the aqua trapezoids have oversized star points on each end. One of Deb Tucker’s great tips is to lay about 5 strips of painter’s tape layered on top of each other on your cutting mat. Trim off a little on one side evening up the edges. Peel up the tape and place it on ruler line to aid in making repetitive cuts. Our trapezoids were precision cut from 1 3/4″ strips. By placing the built up tape edge on the 1 3/4″ line it will make it much easier to trim the sewn units to 1 3/4″. Trim all the units.

Each hunter star block contains 2 triangles, 2 trapezoids & 4 star points. Remember, we are breaking the rules by centering and stitching a light trapezoid to a dark triangle & a dark trapezoid to a light triangle.

Match the triangle halves, nest the seams and stitch. Press the diagonal seam open.

Carefully align the center line of the tool with the center seam of the block. Carefully aligning the diamonds on the tool with the seam lines of the diamonds on the pieced block, trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the tool and rotate the block and carefully trim the other two sides, using the dashed lines along the side of the tool on the previously trimmed edges. Trim all the blocks to the cut size.

Layout the blocks and stitch them together into rows. I added 5″ borders.

I Loaded it onto the quilt frame and started meandering. Just remember, “All that Meander are Not Lost”! I bought Jamie Wallen’s wonderful quilting tools, but I haven’t learned to use them yet! (As you can see, they are still in the original packaging, sigh.)

This is definitely NOT your grandmother’s Hunter Star Quilt!

#islandbatikambassador #Islandbatik #iheartislandbatik

Scrapodopolis – BlockBuster’s #1 – #9

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I just finished my quilt containing Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster patterns #1 through #9! Scrapodopolis seems like a pretty good name.

I used the Tucker trimmer 1, Wing Clipper 1, Square/Squared, V Block & Four Patch Square up tools from Studio 180 Design. I was encouraged by fellow Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer to try a block layout a little outside the box, and I totally did!

This is the layout I chose. I did change it up a little.

My blocks are 12″ when finished. that indicated that my Square/Squared units would finish at 6″. I Needed 16 square/squared units and decided the center squares would be cut from 16 different fabric pulled from the blocks & the side triangles would be the same background fabric used in the blocks. The 3″ rectangles on either side of the square/squared units would match the border fabric. The outer borders would finish at 6″ also. I added a 3″ border outer border to enhance the four square/squared units in the border.

Don’t do what I did. I started in the center and stitched the outer square/squared units to the center blocks, (they had to be un-sewed and sewn to the borders pieces). In each of the corners, I stitched a 12″ block to a square/squared unit & stitched a square/squared unit to a 6.5″ square and then stitched it to the block. The two blocks on either side of the center were stitched to a square/squared unit

This is much better. Now there are 3 rows of blocks in the center ready to be stitched together & the border square/squared units are pieced to the border strips.

Once all the pieces were stitched together I decided I needed to add a 3″ outer border so all the units appear to be floating.

I am so pleased with how it came out! My finished quilt measures 67″ x 67″.

I can’t wait to start the next quilt with BlockBuster #10!

BlockBuster #9 – Three In One

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This block requires your Tucker Trimmer I and V Block tools. BlockBuster 09 Three in One provides 3 different possible block layouts. The block is made up of V Block, Combination & Quarter Square Triangle units. I’m making Block 1 as a 12″ block, with 4″ finished units.

All of the units in these three blocks are the same (and placed in the same location), yet just by rotating the units and changing your fabric placement, you’ll get three very different blocks.

These are my fabric choices. I will be making Block 1. I decided where I wanted my fabrics in the block by looking at the colors in block 1 and assigned my fabric choice for the units.

I need four V Block units with the center triangle cut from the background fabric and the side triangles cut from each of my four fabric colors. For a 4″ finished unit I cut a 5″ WOF strip of the background and each of the four fabric color groups. (check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions and on the tool itself.)

The center unit is a Quarter Square Triangle made from each of the four fabrics. I cut a 5 1/2″ square from each of my four fabrics. ( Check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions.)

The corner units are Combination Units. Each combo unit is made from fabrics that match the side triangles on either side of the V Block units and the background fabric. Cut 2 each 5 1/2″ squares from each of the four fabrics and four 5 1/2″ squares from the background fabric.

V Bock Units

Everything you need to know for making V Block units is in the tool instructions. I’m starting with the V Block center triangles. To cut the center triangles, layer no more than two layers deep. Fold the ends deep enough to accommodate the slanted cut for a 4″ finished unit and finger press it.

Position the tool on the strip so that the dashed line labeled “Fold Line for Center Triangle” is aligned with the fold and the correct size line of the tool is against the bottom edge of the strip. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool and unfold to reveal the center triangle pieces.

Move the cut triangles to the side and flip the strip over from top to bottom. Align the center triangle trim line with the previously trimmed edge and cut your next pair of center triangles. For this block you need four center triangles.

For the Side triangles. place the strips facing each other, either right sides or wrong sides together on the cutting mat. Locate the bold solid line on the tool that reads “Cut Line for Side Triangles”. Position that line against the trimmed end of the strip and the proper size line against the bottom of the strip. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool.

Cut one set from each of the four fabrics.

Lay out the V Block units, making sure you are lining up the long edge of the side triangles with the edges of the center triangle. Position pieces right sides together lining up the slanted cut edges “tip to tip” and stitch one side triangle to the unit. Press toward the side triangle. Position second triangle, stitch & press as shown. Repeat with the other V Blocks.

Lay the V Block unit on the cutting mat with “V” pointing toward you. Lay the tool on the unit aligning the “Finished Size” measurement with the seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. (For left hand cutting directions see tool instructions.)

Lift the tool and rotate the unit. Reposition the tool on top aligning the correct “Cut Size” measurements with the previously trimmed corner and “X” with the sewn seam intersection. Trim up the right side across the top.

Quarter Square Triangle – Center Unit

Check the Size Cutting Chart to determine size of the starter squares. For 4″ finished units cut one 5 1/2″ square from each of the four colors. Make half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of 2 of the fabric squares with your Magic Wand, stitch on the lines and cut apart. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Do Not Trim. Check your fabric placement choices to determine which fabrics to make HST’s out of.

Note: When making half square triangles, combination units and quarter square triangles, you will be making two units at a time. You can make two blocks or save the units for something later.

On the back of one of the HST’s, use your Magic Wand and mark two diagonal lines. Position the HST units right sides together, carefully nesting the sewn seams. Stitch on the lines, cut apart and press swirling the center.

Position your Tucker Trimmer over the pieced unit. Carefully align both the common diagonal and the size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the Tucker Trimmer tool and rotate the unit. This time be sure to position both the common diagonal, the size diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement desired. Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top.

Combination Units

Check you fabric placement choice to group your fabrics for making the combo units. There are three 5 1/2″ squares (one background & 2 darker fabrics) for each combo unit. Start by making half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of one of the darker fabric squares and placing it right sides together with the other dark fabric square. Stitch on the lines and cut apart and press. Do Not Trim. Do this for each color group.

Mark two diagonal lines on the back of one HST. Place one HST on one background square centering it and stitch on the lines.

Cut apart and press toward the large triangle. When you make combination units with this process, you are making mirror image combo units. You will only need one set of combo units for one block. Deb Tucker has a Non Mirror Combo Technique Sheet that shows you how to make only the combo units you need.

Position the Tucker trimmer over the unit, carefully aligning both the common diagonal and the size diagonal with the stitched seams. Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top. Lift the tool and rotate the unit. This time line up both diagonal lines and the outline to the exact measurement desired and trim as before.

Lay out your units and stitch into rows, pressing as shown.

Stitch your rows to make your block. I now have BlockBuster’s #1 – #9 completed! Time to make a quilt!

BlockBuster #8 54-40 or Fight

What a Big Pin Cushion You Have My Dear!

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The March Island Batik Challenge is to try a technique that is new to me. As a person totally addicted to all things quilting I was having a hard time coming up with an idea.

Early in February I was at a quilt retreat with gal pals at Needle in a Haystack Retreat Center in Findley Lake, NY (fabulous retreat center). In their fabric store I spotted something high on a shelf.

I asked “is that a mini tuffet kit”? the answer was “yes”. “What would you do with a 8″ tuffet” I asked? She said “it could be for an American Girl Doll”. Then it struck me….it could be a pin cushion on steroids! I have never tried to make a tuffet before, so that was my choice for “try a technique new to me!!!

I had these beautiful 2.5″ inch strips from Island Batik’s “Spoolin Around” collection. I love how accurate and clean the edges are on Island Batik pre-cuts!

First task was to staple the batting around the foam, to round the edges and attach it to the wooden base. I’m already in trouble because apparently I tugged too hard on the batting, more about that later.

I had to pick 9 strips, trim them to 1.25″ wide, and sew them together pressing the seams open. So far so good.

Cut them into four units 9.5″ wide.

Sew the four units together forming a tube. Here is where things start to go astray. I placed the form into the tube to check on the fit. It seemed a little loose to me. I guess I tugged too hard on the batting when stapling it to the wooden base.

Next I had to zig-zag a gathering cord on both ends of the tube. My computerized sewing machine couldn’t handle the job so I had to break out “Libby” my Free-Westinghouse, 60’s era sewing machine to get the job done! This was the hardest part to accomplish, many expletives were flying around Tuckerville!

First attempt showed that the tube was way too big. I had to remove 2 strips to make it smaller, (again, I tugged too hard on the batting while stapling it to the wooden base)! I don’t think mine looks anything like the pictures in the instructions.

I don’t know how they got theirs so smooth! I used a glue gun to attached the button and cover the bottom. I got glue every where, not to mention burns from dripping it on my fingers.

Tucker is not sure what to think of it.

I think I would rather make a King Size quilt than make another tuffet! But I will smile every time I look at it, and aren’t the colors lovely?

Mini Love

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As an Island Batik Ambassador the products featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Do you like mini quilts? Part two of Island Batik’s Ambassador February assignment was to make a mini quilt 24″ square or smaller. I chose a simple block.

I used Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk & Mini Flower Carnation Pink, plus 2 fat quarters from the Galentine Day Bundle, one red for the star points and another red for the border.

I decided to make 4 blocks. Each block has a center square, 4 two color quarter square triangles for the star points and 4 half square triangles. My block units are 2 1/2″ finished, and the block measures 7 1/2″ finished. I decided to start with the half square triangles (HST). For four blocks I would need 16 HST. With my Tucker Trimmer I, I can make two at a time. Deb Tucker has a new Technique Sheet called “Eight at Once”. This technique sheet has a chart that gives you the fabric requirements for oversized HST in 11 sizes. For 16 – 2 1/2″ finished HST I would need two 7″ squares of the Mini Flower Carnation Pink and two 7″ squares of Neutral Buttermilk.

Using my Magic Wand, draw diagonal lines on the wrong side of the lightest fabric. I also marked the vertical halfway mark & the horizontal halfway mark.

Stitch on all four diagonal lines only.

First trim the vertical halfway mark & then the horizontal halfway mark. Then trim in between the stitched diagonal lines. And, all at once you’ve got 8 HST.

Press toward the pink. Do you know that “what ever you are pressing toward…goes on top”? That means lay your units with pink fabric on top. Set your seams, then push over the pink fabric and press.

Lay your unit on the cutting mat. We always trim our units to the cut size. My units are 2 1/2″ finished, that means the cut size is 3″. Find the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer, align the 3″ diagonal line on the HST’s diagonal line and center it. Trim up the right side and across the top. Rotate the unit, align the just trimmed edge with the 3″ clean up line, again align the 3″ diagonal, trim up the right side and across the top. If you are left-handed, position your unit to the left and the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer would be positioned to the left also. You woud trim up the left side and across the top.

Now we will make our Quarter Square Triangles (QST). I check the chart in my Tucker Trimmer instructions. For 2 1/2″ finished units, my starter squares should be 4″. For all four blocks I need Eight Red 4″ squares & Eight Pink 4″ squares. Using my Magic wand I draw 2 diagonal lines on each pink square. Layer one pink square with one red square aligning the raw edges. Stitch on both diagonal lines and cut apart.

We are going to press toward the red , so lay your units red side up and press as before. Divide your HST’s into two even piles. Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines as shown above on half of your HST’s.

Position one HST marked with the stitch lines with a HST without the stitching lines, right side together, and opposite colors facing each other. Align and nest the center seams.

Stitch on the lines and cut apart. Swirl the center as shown above and press.

Position the Tucker Trimmer over the pieced square. Carefully align both the common diagonal and the 3″ size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. Rotate the unit, line up the Tucker trimmer again. This time be sure to position both the diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement of 3″, trim up the right side and across the top.

Cut four 3″ red squares for the block centers. Lay out the block as shown above.

Stitch the units into rows, press the seam as shown.

Stitch the rows together and press as shown.

Make all four blocks. I added sashing. I cut two 1 1/2″ x 8″ strips and joined the two blocks on top row, and then the two blocks on the bottom row. I cut three strips 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″. I joined the top row to the bottom row and added a strip on either side of the square. Cut two strips 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ for the top and bottom of the square. Note: Always measure your blocks for accurate sashing measurements.

From another Galentine Day fat quarter I cut 3″ outer borders. I finished it with my Hobbs Cotton Batting. I stitched in the ditch and bound it with some Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk. It was pieced & quilted with Aurifil Mako 50 thread.

This is a sweet simple quilt. Reminds me of Forest Gump, “Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get”, these blocks look like nicely wrapped chocolates. Happy February!

The Island Batik Box Has Arrived!

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As an Island Batik Ambassador the products featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

My box from Island Batik has finally arrived. I’m so excited to see and share the contents with you.

My box is so special, I got a chihuahua ! No, that is my girl Tucker, she helps me with everything I’m doing whether I want help or not!

First up is the wrapped bundle. It is wrapped because it contains fabric from Island Batik’s new line to be launched at Spring Market. I haven’t even opened it yet.

To help us create our projects Hobbs Batting has given us Premium Cotton Batting & Hobbs Thermore, it is a polyester batting that eliminates fiber migration.

Aurifil, my absolute favorite thread. They are so pretty lined up like little soldiers waiting for their orders. If you haven’t tried Aurifil thread you should. This thread is thinner, stronger & produces less lint in the bobbin case.

Island Batik’s product line also includes batik rayon for apparel use. I was given 2 yards of Pomegranate Seeds Red and a rayon scarf in a beautiful blend of greens and purple! Should look good with my white hair!

3 yards of Switzerland, I mean Neutral. You can never have too much neutral!

Batik Foundations 1/2 yard Bundle! Wowza, those colors are yummy!

Alpine Jungle Fat Eighth Bundle with 1.5 yards of coordinating fabric. I love this bundle. I can’t wait to make something out it.

These little bundles of 5 inch strips will come in handy, I’m sure of it!

This fat quarter bundle was for Galentine’s day, which is today. But I didn’t want to be late so I made mine from Island Batik’s Drizzle Collection.

And last but not least, this is a layer cake from the City Culture 2 line & 1.5 yards of coordinating light and dark fabric.

So join Tuck & me on this year long adventure of discovering new fabrics and fun projects!

As I finish this post, Tucker is trying to put her scent all over my Island Batik’s!

#islandbatik #islandbatikambassador

Celebrating GALentine’s Day

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First things first… I am an Island Batik Ambassador!!! I am so excited to have been accepted as apart of this talented group of quilters. Island Batik Company has been around for over 15 years providing quality products and outstanding customer service.

Island Batik Ambassador’s are from all over the world. As an Island Batik Ambassador, I will be sharing their fabric lines and projects to help inspire you. Every month there will be something new to share.

I am one of those people who can’t stand to be late. Even when I try to not to be the first person at the party, I’m always on time! The 2017 Island Batik Ambassador’s just ended their year with the Four Season Blog Hop January 31st. The boxes filled with Island Batik goodies for the 2018 Ambassador’s have been mailed. Unfortunately mine will be delivered while I’m away at a quilting retreat. I can’t stand to be late so I pulled out some Island Batik fabric from my stash to share my GALentine’s Day project with you.

If you were a Parks & Recreation’s fan you’ll remember when Leslie Knope created “Galentine”s Day” as a celebration of our best gal pal’s and lady friends! So this February 13th (that’s right, the day before Valentines Day) let’s celebrate our fellow females who encourage and inspire us.

I heart you.

I am also a Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor, so the way I roll is with Deb Tucker Tools! This Mug Rug was made with Deb’s Split Rects & Corner Pop Tools.

I started by choosing my Island Batik fabrics from the Drizzle Collection and my favorite thread from Aurifil. I made this Mug Rug by making two 3″ x 6″ finished mirror image Split Rects units. First thing was to check the size chart in my Split Rects instructions. I had fat quarters of dark purple & light purple, and yardage of my background fabric. The tool instructions will tell you that for 3″x 6″ finished units you will need 7″ wide strips of each color. I cut a 7″ strip from each of my purple fat quarters, and a 7″ WOF strip from my background fabric.

For Mirror Image units I placed my purple 7″ strips right sides together and trimmed off the selvages.

Right handers place strips horizontally on the cutting mat and position the tool on the strip with the broad black line against the trimmed end of the strips and the desired finished size guide line along the raw edge of the strips. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool. You will now have mirror image elongated triangles. (See tool instructions for left handed cutting.)

Repeat the process and cut two mirror image elongated triangles from your background fabric. Place the background triangles with purple triangles as shown above.

Stitch the elongated triangles by placing them right sides together with the long, bias edge of the pieces aligned. Because they are oversized there is no need to fuss, just center the two pieces with just a bit of overlap at the ends and stitch. I press the seams open, but you can press to the dark if you are morally opposed to pressing the seams open.

First trim, for right handers, position the unit horizontally on the cutting mat (see tool instructions for left handed trimming). Align either the “Common Diagonal” or the correct “Size Diagonal” with the seam you have sewn (this will vary depending on the slant of your unit). The photo above has the common diagonal lined up with the sewn seam. Check to make sure that the unit is completely contained within the trim down lines for 3″x6″ unit. Trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the tool and rotate the unit. Reposition the tool over the unit. Align the cut size measurement with the trimmed corner and the same Common Diagonal line used the first time. Trim the two remaining edges.

For the second Split Rects unit you will use the “Size Diagonal” line (this will vary depending on the slant of your unit) positioned over the sewn seam making sure the unit is completely contained within the 3″x6″ trim down lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the tool, rotate the unit. Align the cut size measurement with the trimmed corner and the same Size Diagonal line used the first time. Trim the two remaining edges.

You now have two perfectly trimmed mirror image Split Rects Units. For the top of our heart I used Deb Tucker’s Corner Pop tool.

Cut two 3 1/2″ squares, one from the dark purple & one from the light purple fabric. Cut two 2″ squares from the background fabric, and then cut them once diagonally ( the size of the replacement triangle squares varies per cut away size & is found in the chart in the tool instructions).

With the Corner Poop tool you can choose from 22 size options and remove a 90 degree corner from your base unit while leaving the 1/4″ seam allowance. For this project I popped off a 3/4″ corner from the dark purple 3 1/2″ square. Place the 3/4″ ruler lines over the corner you wish to remove as shown above and trim.

Center the replacement triangles right sides together with the base shape and stitch. Press toward the small triangle.

Locate the Trim Down Section on your Corner Pop tool and find the diagonal line that corresponds to the Cut Away Size, which is 3/4″. Trim away the excess replacement triangle fabric, returning your base square to its original size.

Repeat the process and pop off one more corner as shown above. Center & stitch the replacement triangle, press toward the replacement triangle.

As before, locate the Trim Down Section on your Corner Pop tool and find the diagonal line that corresponds to the Cut Away Size, which is 3/4″. Trim away the excess replacement triangle fabric. Your unit should look like the one above. Repeat this whole process and pop off the corners of the light purple 3 1/2″ square.

You should end up with the four units above.

Stitch the light purple heart top to the dark purple split rects unit and Stitch the dark purple heart top to the light purple split rects unit. Press one seam towards the split rects unit and press the other towards the heart top. Re-Press one seam of the heart top unit that was pressed toward the split rects so the seams will nest when the unit halves are sewn together.

I pressed the center seam open to avoid bulk.

Measure your heart. Mine measures 6 1/2″x 9 1/2″. I cut two strips 1 1/2″x 9 1/2″ and sewed them on either side. Measure your heart gain. I needed 2 strips 1 1/2″ x 8 1/2″ and stitched them on the top and bottom of my heart.

My mug rug top measures 8 1/2″ by 11 1/2″ so I cut a piece of scrap batting & backing one inch larger, 9 1/2″ by 12 1/2″. Using my walking foot I quilted the 3 layers using a simple cross hatch design with Ivory Aurifil thread.

I finished it with 2 1/4″ binding cut from my left over fat quarter.

Tucker tried her best to keep me from finishing my GALentine’s Day Mug Rug, but I am pleased with the finished product.

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BlockBuster #7 – Whimsy Turndash

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I love this block So sweet & easy. All the instructions you will need for BlockBuster # 07 Whimsy Turndash came with your Square/Squared & Tucker Trimmer I tools which are required to make this block. You will also need to reference your Little Houses Technique Sheet.

Whimsy Turndash is made up of 3 different units. Unit A is Square/Squared, one for the block center. Unit B is Little Houses, 4 are needed. Unit C is Half Square Triangles (HST), 4 are needed for the block corners. I made a 12″ finished block containing 4″ finished units.

The Whimsy Turndash supply list (link in the first paragraph above) offers you 3 different layouts and a black line master to play with. I chose 2 colors and a background fabric shown above.

Unit A – Square/Squared: Determine the desired finished size of your unit. Go to the Center Square Section on your Square/Squared Tool. Mine finished size is 4″, The Center Square Sections tells me to cut a strip 3 1/2″ wide.

I already trimmed off the selvage of my 3 1/2″ strip. Place the line for 4″ finished units on the bottom of the strip up against the trimmed end. Trim up the left side and across the top. You now have a perfect precision cut center square for your unit.

On your Square/Squared tool find the Size Chart for Triangles. For 4″ finished units I cut two 3 1/4″ squares and cut them once diagonally.

Center a side triangle over the center square and stitch. Center another side triangle to the opposite side of the center square and stitch. Press toward the side triangle.

Center another side triangle as before and stitch, repeat on the opposite side so all sides of the center square have a side triangle stitched to it, press toward the side triangle.

Position the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool over the pieced unit. Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit. Mine is 4″ finished, so there is a 4 at each corner of the center square. Trim up the right side and across the top. Check your tool instructions for Left handed cutting tool position.

For the second cut Lift your tool & rotate your unit. Position the tool lining up the “X’s” again and lining up the cleanup lines on the tool with edges previously trimmed. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Unit B – Little House: You will need to make 4 Little Houses. Each little house is made up of 3 squares, one large and two small. For a 4″ finished unit cut four 4 3/4″ squares and eight 2 3/4″ squares.

Begin by marking a diagonal line on the back of your small squares, this will be a stitching line.

Note: you may want to mark an additional line 1/2″ from the center diagonal line to use as a secondary stitching line for creating half square triangles out of the left over fabric.

Position one small square in one of the corners of a large square, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line going across the corner of the large square as shown above. Stitch on both lines and trim apart.

Press toward the triangle. Position a second small square in the corner next to corner you just stitched. Stitch on both lines, cut apart press toward the triangle. Press your half square triangles to the dark. The small half square triangles are not used in this unit. If you don’t want to make them for another project just draw the one diagonal line and once it is stitched discard the corner fabric.

Using the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool line up the peak of the House with the “X” corresponding with your finished unit size. Align the seams with the dotted lines extending down from the “X”. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Rotate your Little House around, and line up the two trimmed edges with the cleanup line corresponding to your unit cut size. This time aligning the peak with the “X” at the bottom. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Repeat with the other 3 large squares.

Unit C – Half Square Triangles: We need four Half Square Triangles. Go to the “Starting Square Size Chart” in your Tucker Trimmer instructions. I am making 4″ finished units, so I need to cut two 5″ background squares and two 5″ squares your color of choice.

Use your Magic Wand and draw to diagonal lines on the back of your background squares as shown above.

Place background squares right sides together with your color of choice squares, stitch on the lines, cut apart and press toward the dark fabric.

We always trim our units to the cut size. My HST are 4″ finished and 4 1/2″ cut size. therefore I look for the half circle in the corner of my tool and position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit with the half circle in the upper right hand corner, carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above. Trim up the right side and across the top. If you are left handed, you would position your tool with half circles in the lower left hand corner of the unit.

Rotate your unit and line up the trimmed edges with the corresponding cut size of your unit, and carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above. Trim up the right side and across the top.