Tag Archives: Tucker Trimmer 1

Log Cabin Challenge

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The Island Batik challenge for November is to incorporate a log cabin block or variation into my project.  I decided to use Studio 180 Design’s Geese on the Edge Technique Sheet.  This is a variation on the Log Cabin block and is a fun way to use your Square/Squared tool, Tucker Trimmer I & Wing Clipper I.

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My beautiful Island Batik fabrics from left to right:  Mr. T Blocks: Arc Pine Needle, Dash-Grasshopper, Seed Circle Custard, Arc Waves Grasshopper, & Sprinkles Playful Pachyderm, & Paisley Dot: Apricot, Candy Corn, Nasturtium, & Item number 121412189.

I have named my original design “Converging Geese” because each block has Flying Geese & Geese on the Edge units, along with Square/Squared units.

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Each 16″ block contains 12 – 2″ x 4″ finished flying geese, 4 – 6″ finished geese on the edge & 1 square/squared unit.  These Geese on the Edge units are soooo much fun to make!  The technique sheet gives instruction for making geese on the edge in 10 sizes from 3″ to 12″!

You begin with starter squares, add logs by chain stitching, square up two sides with your Tucker Trimmer.

Trim apart.

Using your Wing Clipper trim the corner leaving a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Add a replacement triangle and press toward the triangle.

Trim after every addition of a replacement triangle.  Add more logs.

The final trim down is performed when I have four rounds of logs for a  6″ finished geese on the edge unit.

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Stitch the flying geese units into sets containing 3 each.

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Block layout.

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I have created a down loadable pattern for Converging Geese (measures 60″ x 60″) that can be purchased on my If Threads Could Talk Etsy Shop.

#islandbatik #bestofbali #studio180design #debtucker #geeseontheedge

New Years Star

The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Northcott  Fabrics.

This fabulous pattern, “New Year’s Star” by Deb Tucker is fun to make using your V Block & Tucker Trimmer I tools.  It can be made in 3 sizes: 50″ x 66″, 66 x 82″ & 82 x 102″.  I love pink and aqua & retro fans.  I guess you can say the photo above shows my fan club (HAHAHAHA).

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I chose 4 fabrics from Northcott’s “Strokes of Brilliance” collection.  The colors are so deep and rich.

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Pinwheels:  Making the pinwheels begins by  making half square triangles using the 3″ dark & medium squares.  Trim to 2 1/2″ with your Tucker Trimmer.  Arrange the trimmed squares into pinwheels.

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Use Care Here!.  The blocks should spin exactly as shown in the pattern instructions.

V Block High/Low:

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I have cut my background squares and side triangles for unit construction.

Following my pattern instructions I trimmed the background square and stitch a side triangle to it.

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Press toward the side triangle,  add the square to make the second low side triangle and trim.

Trim using the V Bock tool as shown above.  Rotate and trim again.

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By placing the high/low units around the pinwheels we get a great looking wonky star!

Framed Squares:

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Make 8 of these easy framed squares.

Combination Units:

Using the Magic Wand draw 2 diagonal lines on the back of the 5 1/2″ the background squares and align with the medium squares, stitch on lines.

Cut apart and press toward the darker fabric.

Using the Magic wand draw 2 diagonal lines on the back of the half square triangles (HST).  Center the HST’s on a dark 5 1/2″ square, stitch on the lines, cut apart & press toward the large triangle.

Trim using your Tucker Trimmer, rotate and trim again.

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Each set makes mirror image combination units.  Both are used in the pieced inner border.  It is a good idea to keep the units organized into left and right groups.  You’ll be glad you did.

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Lay out your units.

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Stitch into rows.

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Add your inner borders.

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Add your pieced inner borders and your final outer border.

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I love the backing too.  This quilt was completed with Quilters dream Batting!  Thank you Northcott for letting me create with your beautiful fabrics.  The description I’ve shared in this post does not answer every question you may have.  Please feel free to contact me with questions.

#northcottfabrics #strokesofbrilliance #debtucker #studio180design  #tuckertimmer #vblock #newyearsstar

Scrapodopolis – BlockBuster’s #1 – #9

I just finished my quilt containing Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster patterns #1 through #9!  Scrapodopolis seems like a pretty good name.

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I used the Tucker trimmer 1, Wing Clipper 1, Square/Squared, V Block & Four Patch Square up tools from Studio 180 Design.  I was encouraged by fellow Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer to try a block layout a little outside the box, and I totally did!

01 Layout

This is the layout I chose.  I did change it up a little.

02 Square Squared

My blocks are 12″ when finished.  that indicated that my Square/Squared units would finish at 6″.  I Needed 16 square/squared units and decided the center squares would be cut from 16 different fabric pulled from the blocks & the side triangles would be the same background fabric used in the blocks.  The 3″ rectangles on either side of the square/squared units would match the border fabric.  The outer borders would finish at 6″ also.  I added a 3″ border outer border to enhance the four square/squared units in the border.

03 dont do this

Don’t do what I did.  I started in the center and stitched the outer square/squared units to the center blocks, (they had to be un-sewed and sewn to the borders pieces). In each of the corners, I stitched a 12″ block to a square/squared unit & stitched a square/squared unit to a 6.5″ square and then stitched it to the block.  The two blocks on either side of the center were stitched to a square/squared unit

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This is much better. Now there are 3 rows of blocks in the center ready to be stitched together & the border square/squared units are pieced to the border strips.

Once all the pieces were stitched together I decided I needed to add a 3″ outer border so all the units appear to be floating.

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I am so pleased with how it came out!  My finished quilt measures 67″ x 67″.

10 a different view

I can’t wait to start the next quilt with BlockBuster  #10!

BlockBuster #9 – Three In One

This block requires your Tucker Trimmer I and V Block tools.  BlockBuster 09 Three in One provides 3 different possible block layouts.  The block is made up of V Block, Combination & Quarter Square Triangle units.  I’m making Block 1 as a 12″ block, with 4″ finished units.

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All of the units in these three blocks are the same (and placed in the same location), yet just by rotating the units and changing your fabric placement, you’ll get three very different blocks.

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These are my fabric choices.  I will be making Block 1.  I decided where I wanted my fabrics in the block by looking at the colors in block 1 and assigned my fabric choice for the units.

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I need four V Block units with the center triangle cut from the background fabric and the side triangles cut from each of my four fabric colors.  For a 4″ finished unit I cut a 5″ WOF strip of the background and each of the four fabric color groups.  (check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions and on the tool itself.)

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The center unit is a Quarter Square Triangle made from each of the four fabrics.  I cut a 5 1/2″ square from each of my four fabrics. ( Check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions.)

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The corner units are Combination Units.  Each combo unit is made from fabrics that match the side triangles on either side of the V Block units and the background fabric. Cut 2 each 5 1/2″ squares from each of the four fabrics and four 5 1/2″ squares from the background fabric.

V Bock Units

Everything you need to know for making V Block units is in the tool instructions.  I’m starting with the V Block center triangles.  To cut the center triangles, layer no more than two layers deep.  Fold the ends deep enough to accommodate the slanted cut for a 4″ finished unit and finger press it.

Position the tool on the strip so that the dashed line labeled “Fold Line for Center Triangle” is aligned with the fold and the correct size line of the tool is against the bottom edge of the strip. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool and unfold to reveal the center triangle pieces.

Move the cut triangles to the side and flip the strip over from top to bottom.  Align the center triangle trim line with the previously trimmed edge and cut your next pair of center triangles.  For this block you need four center triangles.

For the Side triangles. place the strips facing each other, either right sides or wrong sides together on the cutting mat.  Locate the bold solid line on the tool that reads “Cut Line for Side Triangles”.  Position that line against the trimmed end of the strip and the proper size line against the bottom of the strip.  Trim along the slanted edge of the tool. 

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Cut one set from each of the four fabrics. 

Lay out the V Block units, making sure you are lining up the long edge of the side triangles with the edges of the center triangle.  Position pieces right sides together lining up the slanted cut edges “tip to tip” and stitch one side triangle to the unit. Press toward the side triangle.  Position second triangle, stitch & press as shown.  Repeat with the other V Blocks.

Lay the V Block unit on the cutting mat with “V” pointing toward you.  Lay the tool on the unit aligning the “Finished Size” measurement with the seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top.  (For left hand cutting directions see tool instructions.)

Lift the tool and rotate the unit. Reposition the tool on top aligning the correct “Cut Size” measurements with the previously trimmed corner and “X” with the sewn seam intersection.  Trim up the right side across the top.

Quarter Square Triangle – Center Unit

Check the Size Cutting Chart to determine size of the starter squares.  For 4″ finished units cut one 5 1/2″ square from each of the four colors.  Make half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of 2 of the fabric squares with your Magic Wand, stitch on the lines and cut apart.  Press seams toward the darker fabric.  Do Not Trim. Check your fabric placement choices to determine which fabrics to make HST’s out of.

Note:  When making half square triangles, combination units and quarter square triangles, you will be making two units at a time.  You can make two blocks or save the units for something later.

On the back of one of the HST’s, use your Magic Wand  and mark two diagonal lines. Position the HST units right sides together, carefully nesting the sewn seams.   Stitch on the lines, cut apart and press swirling the center.

Position your Tucker Trimmer over the pieced unit. Carefully align both the common diagonal and the size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Lift the Tucker Trimmer tool and rotate the unit.  This time be sure to position both the common diagonal, the size diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement desired. Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top.

Combination Units

Check you fabric placement choice to group your fabrics for making the combo units.  There are three 5 1/2″ squares (one background & 2 darker fabrics) for each combo unit.  Start by making half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of one of the darker fabric squares and placing it right sides together with the other dark fabric square.  Stitch on the lines and cut apart and press.  Do Not Trim.  Do this for each color group.

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Mark two diagonal lines on the back of one HST. Place one HST on one background square centering it and stitch on the lines.

Cut apart and press toward the large triangle.  When you make combination units with this process, you are making mirror image  combo units.  You will only need one set of combo units for one block.  Deb Tucker has a Non Mirror Combo Technique Sheet that shows you how to make only the combo units you need.

Position the Tucker trimmer over the unit, carefully aligning both the common diagonal and the size diagonal with the stitched seams.  Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top.  Lift the tool and rotate the unit.  This time line up both diagonal lines and the outline to the exact measurement desired and trim as before.

Lay out your units and stitch into rows, pressing as shown.

Stitch your rows to make your block.  I now have BlockBuster’s #1 – #9 completed!  Time to make a quilt!

Mini Love

As an Island Batik Ambassador the products featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Do you like mini quilts?  Part two of Island Batik’s Ambassador February assignment was to make a mini quilt 24″ square or smaller.  I chose a simple block.

I used Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk & Mini Flower Carnation Pink, plus 2 fat quarters from  the Galentine Day Bundle, one red for the star points and another red for the border.

24 Block front

I decided to make 4 blocks.  Each block has a center square, 4 two color quarter square triangles for the star points and 4 half square triangles.  My block units are 2 1/2″ finished, and the block measures 7 1/2″ finished.  I decided to start with the half square triangles (HST).  For four blocks I would need 16 HST.  With my Tucker Trimmer I,  I can make two at a time.  Deb Tucker has a new Technique Sheet called “Eight at Once”.  This technique sheet has a chart that gives you the fabric requirements for oversized HST in 11 sizes.  For 16 – 2 1/2″ finished HST I would need two 7″ squares of the Mini Flower Carnation Pink and two 7″ squares of Neutral Buttermilk.

03 layer

 

Using my Magic Wand, draw diagonal lines on the wrong side of the lightest fabric.  I also marked the vertical halfway mark & the horizontal halfway mark.

02 Mark

Stitch on all four diagonal lines only.

First trim  the vertical halfway mark & then the horizontal halfway mark.  Then trim in between the stitched diagonal lines. And, all at once you’ve got 8 HST.

06 Press

Press toward the pink.  Do you know that “what ever you are pressing toward…goes on top”?  That means lay your units with pink fabric on top.  Set your seams, then push over the pink fabric and press.

Lay your unit on the cutting mat.  We always trim our units to the cut size.  My units are 2 1/2″ finished, that means the cut size is 3″.  Find the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer, align the 3″ diagonal line on the HST’s diagonal line and center it.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Rotate the unit, align the just trimmed edge with the 3″ clean up line, again align the 3″ diagonal, trim up the right side and across the top.  If you are left-handed, position your unit to the left and the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer would be positioned to the left also. You woud trim up the left side and across the top.

Now we will make our Quarter Square Triangles (QST).  I check the chart in my Tucker Trimmer instructions.  For 2 1/2″ finished units, my starter squares should be 4″.  For all four blocks I need Eight Red 4″ squares & Eight Pink 4″ squares.  Using my Magic wand I draw 2 diagonal lines on each pink square.  Layer one pink square with one red square aligning the raw edges.  Stitch on both diagonal lines and cut apart.

We are going to press toward the red , so lay your units red side up and press as before.  Divide your HST’s into two even piles.  Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines as shown above on half of your HST’s.

Position one HST marked with the stitch lines with a HST without the stitching lines, right side together, and opposite colors facing each other.  Align and nest the center seams.

Stitch on the lines and cut apart.  Swirl the center as shown above and press.

Position the Tucker Trimmer over the pieced square.  Carefully align both the common diagonal and the 3″ size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Rotate the unit, line up the Tucker trimmer again.  This time be sure to position both the diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement of 3″, trim up the right side and across the top.

Cut four 3″ red squares for the block centers.  Lay out the block as shown above.

Stitch the units into rows, press the seam as shown.

Stitch the rows together and press as shown.

Make all four blocks.  I added sashing.  I cut two 1 1/2″ x 8″ strips and joined the two blocks on top row, and then the two blocks on the bottom row.  I cut three strips 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″.  I joined the top row to the bottom row and added a strip on either side of the square.  Cut two strips 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ for the top and bottom of the square.  Note:  Always measure your blocks for accurate sashing measurements.  

From another Galentine Day fat quarter  I cut 3″ outer borders.  I finished it with my Hobbs Cotton Batting.  I stitched in the ditch and bound it with some Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk.  It was pieced & quilted with Aurifil Mako 50 thread.

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This is a sweet simple quilt.  Reminds me of Forest Gump, “Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get”, these blocks look like nicely wrapped chocolates.  Happy February!

 

 

BlockBuster #7 – Whimsy Turndash

I love this block So sweet & easy.   All the instructions you will need for BlockBuster # 07 Whimsy Turndash  came with your Square/Squared & Tucker Trimmer I tools which are required to make this block.  You will also need to reference your Little Houses Technique Sheet.

Whimsy Turndash is made up of 3 different units.  Unit A is Square/Squared, one for the block center.  Unit B is Little Houses, 4 are needed.  Unit C is Half Square Triangles (HST), 4 are needed for the block corners.  I made a 12″ finished block containing 4″ finished units.

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The Whimsy Turndash supply list (link in the first paragraph above) offers you 3 different layouts and a black line master to play with.  I chose 2 colors and a background fabric shown above.

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Unit A – Square/Squared:  Determine the desired finished size of your unit.  Go to the Center Square Section on your Square/Squared Tool.  Mine finished size is 4″, The Center Square Sections tells me to cut a strip 3 1/2″ wide.

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I already trimmed off the selvage of my 3 1/2″ strip.  Place the line for 4″ finished units on the bottom of the strip up against the trimmed end.  Trim up the left side and across the top.  You now have a perfect precision cut center square for your unit.

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On your Square/Squared tool find the Size Chart for Triangles.  For 4″ finished units I cut two 3 1/4″ squares and cut them once diagonally.

Center a side triangle over the center square and stitch. Center another side triangle to the opposite side of the center square and stitch.  Press toward the side triangle.

Center another side triangle as before and stitch, repeat on the opposite side so all sides of the center square have a side triangle stitched to it, press toward the side triangle.

Position the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool over the pieced unit.  Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit.  Mine is 4″ finished, so there is a 4 at each corner of the center square.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  Check your tool instructions for Left handed cutting tool position.

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For the second cut Lift your tool & rotate your unit.  Position the tool lining up the “X’s” again and lining up the cleanup lines on the tool with edges previously trimmed.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Unit B – Little House:  You will need to make 4 Little Houses.  Each little house is made up of 3 squares, one large and two small.  For a 4″ finished unit cut four 4 3/4″ squares and eight 2 3/4″ squares.

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Begin by marking a diagonal line on the back of your small squares, this will be a stitching line.

Note:  you may want to mark an additional line 1/2″ from the center diagonal line to use as a secondary stitching line for creating half square triangles out of the left over fabric.

Position one small square in one of the corners of a large square, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line going across the corner of the large square as shown above.  Stitch on both lines and trim apart.

Press toward the triangle.  Position a second small square in the corner next to corner you just stitched.  Stitch on both lines, cut apart press toward the triangle.  Press your half square triangles to the dark.  The small half square triangles are not used in this unit.  If you don’t want to make them for another project just draw the one diagonal line and once it is stitched discard the corner fabric.

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Using the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool line up the peak of the House with the “X” corresponding with your finished unit size.  Align the seams with the dotted lines extending down from the “X”.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Rotate your Little House around, and line up the two trimmed edges with the cleanup line corresponding to your unit cut size.  This time aligning the peak with the “X” at the bottom.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

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Repeat with the other 3 large squares.

Unit C – Half Square Triangles:  We need four Half Square Triangles.  Go to the “Starting Square Size Chart” in your Tucker Trimmer instructions.  I am making 4″ finished units, so I need to cut two 5″ background squares and two 5″ squares your color of choice.

Use your Magic Wand and draw to diagonal lines on the back of your background squares as shown above.

Place background squares right sides together with your color of choice squares, stitch on the lines, cut apart and press toward the dark fabric.

We always trim our units to the cut size.  My HST are 4″ finished and 4 1/2″ cut size.  therefore I look for the half circle in the corner of my tool and position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit with the half circle in the upper right hand corner, carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above.  Trim up the right side and across the top.  If you are left handed, you would position your tool with half circles in the lower left hand corner of the unit.  

Rotate your unit and line up the trimmed edges with the corresponding cut size of your unit, and carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

Lay out your completed units.  Sew into rows.

This is the back of the block showing how I pressed  the seams.

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I love the completed Whimsy Turndash and I hope you will too.  This is a great block to practice these easy techniques with.

 

BlockBuster 4 – Capital T Variation

This is a great block.  04 Capital T Variation requires the use of your Wing Clipper I, & Tucker Trimmer I.  You’ll be making flying geese, combination units and quarter square triangles.  The supply list shows 3 block options. I chose the first 3 color combination because I’m using some Kim Diehl fabric with a cream background for all my BlockBuster’s so I can make them into a cohesive quilt when I’m done.  You have 3 size choices.  I chose to make mine 12″ blocks with 4″ finished units.

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All the instructions you need to make the units required for this block are with your Wing Clipper & Tucker Trimmer.  In both there are size charts that tell you what size to cut your starter squares depending on the finished or cut size of your units.  When making your block you will want to pay close attention to your color placement.

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Remember when making your flying geese, your large square  becomes the body and small squares become the small triangles in your geese.  I have cut my starter squares to make 4 geese with a blue body and gold wings, and 4 geese with a gold body and blue wings.

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On the backs of my small squares draw 2 diagonal lines using your Magic Wand.

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Position two small squares on your large squares right sides together as shown above paying attention to your fabric choices.  Nudge your small squares in toward the center just a thread or two (about a 1/16″).  This will give more to trim off later.

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Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

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After stitching, cut apart.

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Press toward the small triangles. Remember “what you are pressing toward – always goes on top”!

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Position one small squares on the corners of the previously pieced units, nudging the squares away from the edges as before.

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Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Cut apart.

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Press toward the small triangles.

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Position your flying geese unit pointed toward you (left handers see your Wing Clipper instructions).  Align the diagonal lines on your tool with the seams in your unit.  As you can see I’m am making a 2″x4″ finished flying geese, so the cut size is 2.5″x 4.5″.  Trim the two sides as shown.

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Rotate your unit and reposition the Wing Clipper to align the previously trimmed edges and the X at the top with the intersection of the seams and trim again.

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Repeat with all your flying geese units.  I now have two sets of 2.5″ x 4.5″ flying geese.

Combination Units:  after checking my size chart I know my starter squares for 4″ finished units are 5.5″.  I cut one gold, one blue and two background squares, all 5.5″.

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Combination Units start by making half square triangles.

I grabed my Magic Wand and drew two diagonal lines on the back of one of my gold 5.5″ square.  Position the gold square on the blue with right sides together and align the edges.  Stitch on both lines using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. and cut apart.

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Press toward the dark triangle.  Grab your Magic Wand again and draw two diagonal ines on the back of both Half Square triangles.

 

Position each half square triangle on a 5.5″ background square, right sides together centering it.  Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Cut apart as shown above.

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You now have 4 combination units.  Note: this process creates units that are “mirror images”.

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Position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit, carefully aligning both diagonal lines with the stitched seams as shown and trim.

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Rotate the unit and line up the Tucker Trimmer again.  This time be sure to position both diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement desired and trim again.

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Four beautifully trimmed combination units for the corners of our block.

Quarter Square Triangles:  Check your size chart.  These are 5.5″ starter squares.

On the back of my gold square I have again used my Magic wand to draw to diagonal stitching lines.

Position the gold square over the blue square, right sides together, aligning the edges.  Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance and cut apart.

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Press toward the dark triangles. Using your Magic Wand Draw 2 diagonal lines on the back of one half square triangle.

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Position the two half square triangles right sides together, making sure the colors are opposite each other (my gold is against the blue and vice versa) carefully nesting the seams as shown above.

Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Cut apart and press swirling the centers as shown above.

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Position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit carefully aligning both diagonal lines over the seams lines of the unit.  Trim two sides as shown.

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Rotate the unit and line up both diagonal lines again along with the outline of the unit to the exact measurement desired and trim. Only one quarter square triangle is needed for this block center.

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Layout your units as shown above being careful of color placement.  Notice the body of my geese follow the colors in the quarter square triangle.  And the colors in the combination units are the same as the wings on the geese.

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Stitch your geese together in pairs as shown above.

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Stitch 3 units into a row as shown above.

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This shows how I pressed the block.  The outside rows were press toward the combination units, while the center row was press toward the quarter square triangle.  This allows the rows to nest nicely.

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The finished 12″ Capital T Variation block! I love It!