Step 1 – Organize Strips. Place Print 9 and Print 7 into two separate piles. Use Print 7 to make the A Strip Set and Print 9 to make the B Strip Set.
Step 2 – Make Strip Sets A and Strip Sets B in the same manner as described in the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star basic instructions. Position each diamond strip 4¾” down from the top of the background strip. Sew the strips lengthwise and press as indicated in the diagram below. Pay close attention to proper strip alignment and pressing to ensure success.
Step 3 – First Cuts. Layer Strip Set A and Strip Set B right sides together as illustrated. Trim the ends of the strips at a 45° angle, then continue making 45° angle cuts every 3¼” across the length of the strips. You will get 8 cuts from a paired strip set. Cut the remaining strip sets in this manner until you have 20 pairs.
Step 4 – Make Second Cuts going vertically south to north, as shown. Position the ruler edge at the tip of the star strip and trim straight up. These triangles will be added to the pieced unit.
Jackie’s Tip for staying organized is to label two paper plates A & B. For Right handers, Strip “A” is on top & Strip “B” is on the bottom. Cut one unit at a time, place the “A” unit on plate marked “A” & the “B” unit on plate marked “B”. You will always know which units are A & B for pressing.
Step 5 – Arrange, position and stitch the cut pieces together into pieced triangle units. Press as shown in the diagram to yield future nesting seams.
Tip: Remember “whatever you are pressing toward – goes on top”!
Step 6 – Trim down all pieced triangle units using the 12” line on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool as shown in the diagram.
Step 7 – Assemble quarters. Arrange the sewn and trimmed A and B sections into quarter blocks. Stitch the sections together and press the seams open to best distribute bulk. You should have 20 quarter blocks total.
Step 8 – Trim the quarters to 6½” x 6½” with your Tucker Trimmer® I tool. Clean up the dog ears and true up the first corner as shown (this should just be a few threads at most), then rotate the unit 180o to trim the opposite corner. Align the Common Diagonal with the seam and the 6½” clean up lines with the trimmed edges to trim the remaining two sides. Repeat for all 20 quarters. Label the finished quarters Unit H.
Recap: Make 20 Unit H – Homeward Bound Units.
Congratulations, you have learned to use your Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star tool!
What is a One Block Wonder (OBW)? I bought Maxine Rosenthal’s book “One Block Wonders” in 2006 and was totally awestruck! So much so, that I have made 79 hexagon OBW’s since. Whether you are making hexagons or octagons your are creating kaleidoscope blocks – each one unique by using one fabric, one shape for one of kind quilts! With hexagon OBW’s you cut 6 identical repeats and with octagon OBW’s you cut 8 identical repeats.
Octagons are used in the cover photo.
In 2007 I bought Alexander Henry’s fabulous fabric “Lion Eyes”. I always buy at least 6 yards. This time I had 12 yards in my stash.
I made my 27th hexagon OBW and named it “Just Lion Around” It was included in Maxine Rosenthal’s 4th book One Block Wonders of World.
I made my first OBW in 2006. That year I made 16 OBW’s. It only took me 14 years to finally make my first octagon One Block Wonder!
Cutting the Repeats: I cut my 8 identical repeats and aligned them just as I would for a hexagon OBW. Now it is time to cut octagon and corner triangle strips. You can make octagon OBW’s in any size. Following Maxine’s suggestion I cut my octagon strips 4″ wide. Maxine said to cut the strips for the corner triangles 2 3/4″ wide. I am a Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor. You may be able to take the girl out of the studio…but you will never take the studio (180) out of the girl!
Instead of 2 3/4″ strips, I cut my corner triangle strips 3″ wide, that would give me a little more to trim off the completed octagon blocks. After I aligned and trimmed one long edge of the repeats, I re-measure the width of my repeat to verify how may strips I can cut. My trimmed, aligned repeat measured 23″. For every two strips used to make octagons, cut one strip for the “Sensational Squares” (corner triangles). If I cut four 4″ strips and two 3″ strips it equals 22″. Now I know I have enough fabric in my repeat without cutting myself short.
As I said earlier: You may be able to take the girl out of the studio…but you will never take the studio (180) out of the girl! I am using Studio 180 Design’s Wedge Star Tool to cut my wedges for the octagon blocks.
The beauty of the Wedge Star tool is you can make octagons in sizes 3″ to 24″.
I found it easier to cut both left and right wedges by placing the octagon strip vertically on my cutting table and pull the strip toward me as I cut. The Wedge Star tool instructions show how to cut the units horizontally also:
Because hexagons are made with equilateral triangles you have 3 choices as how to design your block. With Octagons you only have one choice, the narrow end of the wedge is always the center.
Align two wedges and chain stitch the four pair.
As with hexagons, press all seams open. I love my Strip Sticks for that.
Remove “dog ear” and sliver trim the wedge pair. Righties orient the wedge pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right (lefties orient the wedge pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left). Align the common diagonal line on the Tucker Trimmer with the seam and slide it toward the corner just until the sides of the tool touch the very edge of the wedge pair and trim. Note there may be just a few whiskers trimmed here. This is called Trueing up your 90 degree angles and will create a much more square unit.
Match up two wedge pairs, stitch them together and press seams open.
Find the center of the two wedge halves by placing a pin where the two seams meet in both units and align the halves. Pin close to both sides of the first pin, then remove the pin in the center. This will help to center you octagon wedge halves.
Stitch your wedge halves together.
Press your seams open.
I placed my octagons on the design wall as I made them. This helped me to see what I had.
Here I am looking at life through rose colored glasses. again Time to sort the octagons. Looking at the octagons through red plastic helps me to sort the octagons by value. If you didn’t know, I have been battling breast cancer. I am responding well to treatment, but as my hair grows back, I’m noting a resemblance to the Old Man Dancing for the Six Flags commercials.
Sorting the octagons by predominate color or value was more difficult than I thought it would be. I think because the octagons don’t nest with each other as the hexagons do, you don’t get the same flow and movement. I’m saying this because after I added the corner triangles i wasn’t as happy with the design. Take your designing!
Tip: This is most important tip! Place a flower pin in the top wedge of each octagon! By doing this you will be able to easily orient the octagons as you remove and place them back on the design wall. It will keep your brains from falling out!
Adding the “Sensational Squares” (corner triangles).
One set of corner triangles is laid out as shown above making a kaleidoscope square.
Those squares will fit into the space between 4 octagons.
When you step back from the design wall, the square will appear to be gone as the 4 octagons blend together.
I worked with one row at time, deciding which set of corners to add. Remove one octagon at a time and stitch the triangle to the appropriate octagon wedge. In affect, you will be adding corners that effect two rows at a time. In the end, each octagon will have a different triangle on each corner.
Center the octagon wedge over the corner triangle and stitch. Press toward the corner triangle. Remember Deb Tucker’s tip when pressing: “whatever you are pressing toward, always goes on top”!
Above shows the corner triangles added to the inner octagons.
Once the inner octagons have the corners added, continue adding the final corner triangles to the outside edges of the octagons.
Trimming the Octagon Blocks: The octagon units need to be squared up to 6 1/2″.
If you don’t know the beauty of using the Tucker Trimmer you will love this. The Tucker Trimmer is marked with a “Common Diagonal line and Size Lines to help you perfectly center each unit or block for trimming. For righties the Common diagonal line is placed on the center seam going from the bottom left to the upper right. The 6 1/2″ size line is positioned from the upper left to the lower right going through the center of the block. The size line and common diagonal line should intersect in the center of the block centering it perfectly for squaring up. Trim up the right side and across the top. Rotate the block place the 6” clean up lines of the Tucker Trimmer on just trimmed lines of the block. Trim up the right side and across the top.
When all the octagons are trimmed it’s time to stitch your blocks into rows and then join your rows to complete your quilt. My layout was 9 X 10 = 90 – 6″ finished blocks measuring 57″ X 63″ unquilted. I learned a lot in this process. I think my layout would have been more satisfying if I had left it more random. I was trying to create an oval shape with the lighter blocks in the center. But there wasn’t enough contrast between the medium and light blocks. I’ve always been a little contrast challenged.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 2. My helper for Month 2 is Amy Lemke, a talented graphic artist for Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make Half Square Triangles (HSTs) and Combination Units with your Tucker Trimmer I with Prints 1, 2, 5, 10, & 11. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.
Tip: I use plain paper plates and write on them what it is I have cut out. For instance, if you are new to using a Tucker Trimmer, I would label 6 paper plates: one for each print. Using a pen or pencil label the first plate “Print 1, Combination Units (unit D)”, and so on.
Half Square Triangle Construction
Note: For more information and left handed cutting and trimming directions, refer to the instruction that came with your Tucker Trimmer.
Step 1 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal. Draw the lines on the wrong side of all the 7” squares from Print 11. I like to use my Quilter’s Magic Wand™ for this task.
Step 2 – Layer the 7” Print 11 squares right sides together with the 7” squares from Prints 5 and 10. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press away from Print 11 or open.
Step 3 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Trimmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam and trim the first two sides.
Step 4 –Rotate the unit 180 degrees and align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the outside edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Half Square Triangle units. Label the units made with Print 5 Unit C, and label the units with Print 10 Unit B.
Make 8 each from prints 10 & 11 and prints 5 & 11.
Combination Unit Construction
Step 5 – Repeat steps 1 and 2 using the 7½” squares from Print 1 and Print 2 to make 4 Half Square Triangles. Press away from Print 2 or open. Do not trim!
Step 6 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal line of the pieced Half Square Triangles.
Step 7 – Position the pieced squares right sides together with the 7½” Print 11 squares. Note that the edges are not intended to match. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press toward the large triangle.
Step 8 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Timmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the long seam and the Common Diagonal with the short seam. Trim the first two sides.
Step 9 – Rotate the unit 180o and align the Sizing and Common Diagonals with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the trimmed edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Combination units. Label them Unit D.
Congratulations, you have learned to make half square triangles and combination units using your Tucker Trimmer I.
I’m sitting here in Tuckerville, watching TV, looking at my ceiling. I pin orphan blocks on my drop ceiling.
These two blocks are made from the same fabric and units. They both have a Square Squared for the block center, 4 V Block units for the star points and 4 Shaded Four Patch Units (with the Tucker Trimmer I) in the block corners. The top block has the Shaded Four Patch unit small square facing out, while the bottom block has the Shaded Four Patch unit small square facing in. Two very different looks from the same block.
As I stared at these blocks on the ceiling I wondered what the secondary design would be if I put them in a quilt. Time to break out EQ8!
I used shades of purple and lavender because I thought my sister may like it. This is pretty cool. EQ8 is fun to use and brings quilt designs to life. Time to break out my Studio 180 Design tools get busy!
Got some fat quarters? Deb Tucker has many free patterns for you and this one is called Twilight Paths. It uses 14 fat quarters and a background with the Tucker Trimmer I. Twilight paths uses 5″ finished Shaded Four Patch units (5.5″ unfinished). The Shaded Four Patch Technique Sheet shows you haw to make this unit in 21 sizes! This whole quilt is made with Shaded Four Patches!
Download your pattern and let’s go!
To get a great scrappy quilt, Deb suggests that you split your fat quarters into two groups. Group 1 along the 22″ side, cut two 3 1/4″ strips and one 6″ strip, sub-cutting into 3 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. Group 2 along the 22″ side, cut one 3 1/4″ strip and two 6″ strips, sub-cutting each into 3 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. Cut one more 3 1/3″ strip from leftover from Group 1.
From your assorted dark fat quarters you will need 22 – 3 1/4″ strips, and 64 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. From your background you will need 22 – 4 1/4″ strips.
Step 1 – Position each 3 1/4″ strip right sides together with a 4 1/4″ wide background strip and stitch lengthwise. Press seams toward the wider strip.
Step 2 – Pair two of the pieced strips right sides together with the narrow strips on opposite sides, so that each narrow strip faces a wide background strip. Sub-cut the strip sets every 3 1/4″ units until you have 128 rectangles.
Step 3 – Keep the two rectangles paired; stitch each pair of cut pieces together along one long side. Note the seams are not supposed to nest.
Snip the seam allowance at the half way mark between the two squares all the way to the seam.
Press each half of the seam allowance away from the square as shown above.
Step 4– Mark stitching lines. Select a ruler with a 45 degree angle marked on it. Draw a 45 degree sewing line from top to bottom, through the corner of the square where the stitching lines meet. Draw a 2nd line through the corner of the other square.
Step 5 – Center each marked, pieced rectangles right sides together with a 6″ x 7″ rectangle.
Stitch on both lines.
Trim seams 1/4″ from the stitching lines.
Press all seams toward the large triangles.
Step 6 – Trim the 128 oversized units with your Tucker Trimmer I to 5 1.2″ x 5 1/2″. Align the 5 1/2″ Sizing Diagonal with the diagonal seam of the unit. Position the common diagonal so it passes through the center of the unit. Trim the two sides.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit and line up the 5 1/2″ cut size lines on the tool with the previously trimmed edges, align the sizing diagonal and the common diagonal as before and trim the other two edges.
Step 8 – Layout 80 units according to the diagram on page 5 to create the quilt center.
Stitch the units into rows and then stitch the rows together. Press all seams open.
Step 9 – Attach the Inner Border. Stitch the inner border strips to the quilt center.
Step 10 – Assemble the Outer Border. Stitch the remaining units together into 4 border strips containing 12 units each. Make sure you orient the units as shown in the pattern. Press all seams open. Finish as indicated.
My top is not yet quilted. I used Deb Tucker s Steam Engine fabric line by Island Batik in my quilt top. So I guess I will call mine Steam Engine on the Tracks!
Last Valentines day I posted my Hearts Abound Wall Hanging for Island Batik. Today I taught this class and posted the photo of the wall hanging again. Everyone wants the supply list, So I am posting it here. Remember I’m a Dyed in Wool, Drank the Kool Aid Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor and this Supply List is based on Studio 180 Design Tools: Square Squared, Wing Clipper I, Tucker Trimmer I & Magic Wand. Enjoy
I just finished my “Doves of Hope” quilt and wanted to share it with you.
Deb Tucker designed this quilt for Marie Bostwick’s book “Hope on the Inside”. Deb’s pattern Doves of Hope is a twist on a traditional block titled Dove in the Window. She actually nestled a small dove block inside a large dove block to create a quarter section for each 19½” .
I absolutely love how it came out. I pulled out my Island Batik scraps for this project, it is mostly made with Enchanted Forest fabrics. You will need your Tucker Trimmer I to complete this beautiful quilt and can make it in Lap, twin or King sizes.
Your Tucker Trimmer Tool Instructions give you the information you need to complete your Half Square Triangles. Cut your squares and using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines. Match up your dark and light fabric squares aligning the raw edges. Stitch on the lines, cut apart and press to the dark fabric. Remember: whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top. Trim your Half Square Triangle units to 4 1/2″.
Non Mirror Combo Units: Past construction methods would result in mirror image units. Sometimes we need combination units that are the same as in Card Shark which requires two of each units below:
Determine your color placement. Follow the instructions in the Non Mirror Combo Units Technique Sheet.
Make the half square triangles first by using the Magic Wand and mark 4 diagonal lines from corner to corner. Follow the stitching instructions in the technique sheet. Cut apart.
Press toward the dark triangle.
Cut squares for large triangles once diagonally.
Pair small triangles with the large triangles, center and stitch. Press toward the large triangle.
Trim units to 4 1/2″.
Layout your Stacked Square unit pieces.
Start by making a four patch and swirl the center. Our Stacked Square is a 4″ finished unit. Check the chart on the Stacked Square Technique sheet to find the Cut size for the center square, which is 2 1/2″. Using my my Tucker Trimmer I trimmed the four patch to 2 1/2″.
Check your color placement and stitch two triangles. Press toward the triangle and add the two more triangles pressing toward the triangles as before.
The Large Square Squared Tool is broken up into two different parts. Part “A” & Part “B” to include guidelines for making 12 different sizes. The chart in the Stacked Squares Tech sheet tells us what size to cut our side triangles and how line up for trimming. The first trim uses Part “A” to trim before adding the second round of triangles.
After adding the second round of triangles, use Part “B” to trim the stack square to a cut size of 4 1/2″.
Lay out your units, stitch together in to rows.
Card Shark is now ready to add the quilt!
I use my Groovy Seam Rippers made by fellow quilter Nancy Townsend as my little helpers while quilting.
The Whistle Stop Quilt is made up of 12″ blocks and 6″ finished blocks.
This is “Roll the Dice”. It is made with Studio 180 Design Square Squared and Split Rects tools. Click below to download the cutting instructions.
Using your Split Rects tool, cut 4 side triangles for Type 1 units, per your tool instructions from your two fabrics making sure your fabrics are right side up. Stitch triangles together and press seams open.
Trim your Split Rects to 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″, rotate and trim again.
Cut your center square using Part “A” for a 2″ finished unit.
Trim to the cut size of 2 1/2″ using Part “B” of your Square Squared tool. Rotate and trim again.
Layout your block units.
Place the center square/squared unit right sides together with a Split Rects unit aligning the raw edges of the top and sides. Stitch a partial seam along the dark fabric of the Split rects stopping just past the center of the Square/Squared unit.
Now add a Split Rects unit across the top. Be sure the dark fabric of the Split Rects Units are against the center square/squared unit. Press toward the split rects unit.
Add a third split rects unit and press as before.
Add the fourth Split Rects units.
Fold over the split rects unit with the partial seam and align the raw edges. Stitch meeting up with the partial seam.
Below is the complete schedule for the Whistle Stop Tour:
What could be better than a quilt retreat at the Strong House Inn in Vermont in October? Well, how about learning everything you need to know about Studio 180 Design’s Tucker Trimmer! I will be there October 24, 25, 26 & 27, 2019 teaching you how to master using your Tucker Trimmer.
The Tucker Trimmer is used to quickly and accurately trim down pieced squares to exact measurements for perfectly sewn units every time. In this workshop you will learn to make:
I will give you the full fabric requirements and block layouts so you can complete the quilt at home.
But wait there is more! Then we will learn all about the Shaded Four Patch unit.
You will make a table runner using your Shaded Four Patch units.
Then you will learn to make Shaded Nine Patch Units.
You will make this wall hanging with your Shaded Nine Patches:
There will be some surprises. By the end of the workshop you will be completely comfortable using your Tucker Trimmer I. I have no doubt the Tucker Trimmer will become one of your favorite quilt tools!