Category Archives: Wing Clipper 1

Pillow Possibilities

The products featured in this post were given to my by Island Batik.

Playful Pillows

The Island Batik challenge for May is “Playful Pillows”.  As I was thinking about what pillow design I would choose, it occurred to me I had a wealth of ideas at my fingertips.  So many of my favorite quilt patterns have blocks large enough for a pillow.  I decided I would make the center block from Deb Tucker’s “Carolina Lily: One Block” wall quilt pattern.

DTP005_-_No_Y_Carolina_Lily_-_One_Block_1024x1024Carolina Lily is a companion pattern for the Wing Clipper I.

My fabrics from Island Batik & threads from Aurifil.

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For each of the 3 flower blocks you will need 4 flying geese units.  Two of the flying geese units will have one pink point & one green point as shown above.  Deb Tucker’s method for constructing flying geese requires one large square and 4 small squares.  The large square is my background fabric. Three of the small squares are my pink fabric, and one is the green fabric.  Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines on the back of your small squares.

To make a flying geese units position one green square and one pink square right sides together in diagonally opposite corners of the one large square.  Do Not align the raw edges, instead nudge them in toward the center just a few threads & overlapping the two small squares.  Stitch on the lines and cut apart.

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Press the seams toward the smaller triangles.

Position the remaining pink squares in the corner of the previously pieced units.  Nudge the squares as you did before.  Stitch on the lines and cut apart as before.

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You now have four flying geese units, two with pink points and two with one green & one pink point.  For Right handed cutting position your geese unit horizontally on the cutting mat so it points toward you.  Align the diagonal guide lines of the Wing Clipper with the sewn seams of the flying geese unit.  Trim up the side and across the top.  (See your tool instructions for left handed cutting.)

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Rotate the unit and reposition the Wing Clipper to align cleanup guidelines with the previously trimmed raw edges and the “X” at the top with the intersection of the seams.  Trim up the side and across the top.  Do this for all your geese units.

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Construct your lily block according to pattern instructions.  The lily block measures about  a 16 1/2″, I added 2 1/2″ borders all around it.  I like the inside of the pillow to be neat with no raw edges showing.  I want to quilt this block so I cut a backing and batting larger than my block and pin basted it.

I used my walking foot and cross hatched the basket portion of the block.

I was carefully supervised during this process.

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Once I finished with the basket, I outlined the flower parts and squared up the pillow top.

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My pillow top now measures 20 1/2″.  I cut two pieces of fabric 12″ x 20 1/2″.  On each piece, along one of the 20 1/2″ edges fold it over about 1/4″, press it & fold it over again and press it.  Stitch on the pressed over edges for a nice finish.  Position these two pieces on the pillow with WRONG sides together aligning the raw edges so the finished edges overlap in the middle.  Pin in place and stitch around the outside edges of the pillow using a 1/4″ seam allowance.

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Now you have a pillow with raw edges around the outside edge.  I like to add a binding just like it was a quilt.  That way the inside of the pillow is completely finished with no unfinished edges, which is nice for washing the pillow case.

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I made this pillow for my sister Mary, but I think Tucker & Zoey are claiming it!

#islandbatik #Aurifilthread #islandbatikambassador #debtucker #studio180design

Scrapodopolis – BlockBuster’s #1 – #9

I just finished my quilt containing Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster patterns #1 through #9!  Scrapodopolis seems like a pretty good name.

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I used the Tucker trimmer 1, Wing Clipper 1, Square/Squared, V Block & Four Patch Square up tools from Studio 180 Design.  I was encouraged by fellow Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer to try a block layout a little outside the box, and I totally did!

01 Layout

This is the layout I chose.  I did change it up a little.

02 Square Squared

My blocks are 12″ when finished.  that indicated that my Square/Squared units would finish at 6″.  I Needed 16 square/squared units and decided the center squares would be cut from 16 different fabric pulled from the blocks & the side triangles would be the same background fabric used in the blocks.  The 3″ rectangles on either side of the square/squared units would match the border fabric.  The outer borders would finish at 6″ also.  I added a 3″ border outer border to enhance the four square/squared units in the border.

03 dont do this

Don’t do what I did.  I started in the center and stitched the outer square/squared units to the center blocks, (they had to be un-sewed and sewn to the borders pieces). In each of the corners, I stitched a 12″ block to a square/squared unit & stitched a square/squared unit to a 6.5″ square and then stitched it to the block.  The two blocks on either side of the center were stitched to a square/squared unit

04

This is much better. Now there are 3 rows of blocks in the center ready to be stitched together & the border square/squared units are pieced to the border strips.

Once all the pieces were stitched together I decided I needed to add a 3″ outer border so all the units appear to be floating.

09 quilted

I am so pleased with how it came out!  My finished quilt measures 67″ x 67″.

10 a different view

I can’t wait to start the next quilt with BlockBuster  #10!

BlockBuster 5 – Whirligig

This is a very cool block, but be sure to use your best pressing, measuring and cutting skills as this is a 3 out of 4 stars for difficulty.  All the instructions to make this block can be found in the instructions that came with your Wing Clipper I, Tucker Trimmer I and on the Pickets & Quickets technique sheet.

This is a tricky block; you will need to pay attention to your fabric placement and the orientation of your quicket and picket units.  To help you out here is link to the Whirligig Black Line Layout you can print this sheet and use your colored pencils to help choose your fabrics and placement.

01 Fabric Choices

I chose five colors and a background fabric to make 4 different color units, each containing 2 flying geese, a Picket, a Quicket and a half square triangle.

The 05 Whirligig block can be made in 3 sizes:  6″, 9″ and 12″.   I chose the 12″ block.  Check the Cutting Chart, and choose the size block you want to make.  We will start with the Flying Geese Unit.  The cutting chart gives you the finished and the cut sizes of the units.  Check your Wing Clipper instructions to see what size starter squares you need to cut.  As you know when using the Wing Clipper you start with one large square and 4 small squares.

02 Mark for FG

Following the instructions use your Magic Wand and draw two diagonal lines on the back of your small squares.

03 Position

Position 2 of the small squares right sides together in diagonally opposite corners of the large square, nudging them in toward the center by just a few threads

Stitch on both drawn lines, them trim between the lines on the center diagonal.

06 Press

Press the seams toward the smaller triangles.  One of these units will make 2 flying geese, the other will be saved to make a left slanted Quicket.

Position one of the smaller squares in the corner of the previously pieced unit.  Nudge the square in like you did before.  Stitch on the drawn lines and trim between the lines as before.

09 Press

Press the seams toward the smaller triangles.

10 Trim 1

Position your oversized unit horizontally on your cutting mat with the goose pointing toward you.  Align the diagonal guide lines of the Wing Clipper with the sewn seams of the flying geese unit. Trim up the right side and across the top.  (See the Wing Clipper Instructions for left hand cutting.)

11 Trim 2

Lift your Wing Clipper and rotate your flying geese unit 180 degrees.  Reposition your Wing Clipper to align cleanup guidelines with the previously trimmed raw edges and the “X” at the top with the intersection of the seams.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

12 Picket Position

Remember we only used one of the heart shaped units for the flying geese.  We will use the other to make our left slanted Quicket.  Lay the unit on your cutting mat as shown above.  Position your Wing Clipper tool over the unit, the “X” on the tool should align with diagonal seam.  I am making a Quicket with a cut size of 4 1/2″ by 2 1/2″, so I positioned my tool to ensure I can trim all four sides.

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Trim up the right side then across the top.

14 Picket Trim 2

Lift your Wing Clipper tool and rotate your unit 180 degrees.  Align the trim down lines with the just trimmed raw edges and aligning the long diagonal line on the tool with the single diagonal seam.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

15 Quicket

The cut size of my right slanted Picket is 2 1/2″ by 4 1/2″.  Following the instructions on my Pickets & Quickets Technique Sheet, I bump up the size by  1/4″.  My rectangle is 4 3/4″ by 2 3/4″.  My small square is 2 3/4″.  Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the small square.

Position the small square right sides together with the rectangle and align the raw edges.  Stitch on the line and trim the excess.  Press toward the small triangle.

17 Quicket

Position your Wing Clipper tool over the unit, the “X” on the tool should align with diagonal seam.  Trim up the right side  and across the top.

18 Quicket

Lift your Wing Clipper tool and rotate your unit 180 degrees.  Align the trim down lines with the just trimmed raw edges and aligning the long diagonal line on the tool with the single diagonal seam.  Trim up the right side and across the top.

Follow the instructions that came with your Tucker Trimmer I for making Half Square Triangles (HST) in the size you chose.  Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines on the back of one of your starter squares.  Place your starter squares right sides together. Stitch on lines and trim down the center.  I pressed toward the dark fabric.

21 HST Trim 1

Trim the oversized HST to the desired cut size.  Mine are 2 1/2″.  (See the Tucker Trimmer Instructions for left hand cutting.)

22 HST Trim 2

Lift your Tucker Trimmer and rotate the HST 180 degrees position the diagonal line and the outline of the square to the measurement desired and trim up the right side and across the top.

23 Unir Layout

We are now ready to sew this unit together.  Layout the  2 flying geese, 1 left slanted Quicket, 1 right slanted Picket and 1 half square triangle as shown above..

First stitch the 2 flying geese together, press in the direct the geese are flying. Then stitch the geese to the right slanted Picket.  Press toward the Picket.

Stitch the HST to the left slanted Quicket, pressing toward the Quicket.

25 Stitch 2 together

Stitch the two sections together.

26 Block Layout

Repeat the process for each of the other 3 sections.  If all of your geese are the same color you can make all your flying geese in sets of four, then make the Pickets & Quickets using the method in the technique sheet.  When I stitched the four sections togehter I pressed the seams open to avoid bulk.

27 Block

As I said in the beginning, “very cool block”!

BlockBuster 4 – Capital T Variation

This is a great block.  04 Capital T Variation requires the use of your Wing Clipper I, & Tucker Trimmer I.  You’ll be making flying geese, combination units and quarter square triangles.  The supply list shows 3 block options. I chose the first 3 color combination because I’m using some Kim Diehl fabric with a cream background for all my BlockBuster’s so I can make them into a cohesive quilt when I’m done.  You have 3 size choices.  I chose to make mine 12″ blocks with 4″ finished units.

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All the instructions you need to make the units required for this block are with your Wing Clipper & Tucker Trimmer.  In both there are size charts that tell you what size to cut your starter squares depending on the finished or cut size of your units.  When making your block you will want to pay close attention to your color placement.

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Remember when making your flying geese, your large square  becomes the body and small squares become the small triangles in your geese.  I have cut my starter squares to make 4 geese with a blue body and gold wings, and 4 geese with a gold body and blue wings.

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On the backs of my small squares draw 2 diagonal lines using your Magic Wand.

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Position two small squares on your large squares right sides together as shown above paying attention to your fabric choices.  Nudge your small squares in toward the center just a thread or two (about a 1/16″).  This will give more to trim off later.

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Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance.

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After stitching, cut apart.

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Press toward the small triangles. Remember “what you are pressing toward – always goes on top”!

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Position one small squares on the corners of the previously pieced units, nudging the squares away from the edges as before.

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Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Cut apart.

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Press toward the small triangles.

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Position your flying geese unit pointed toward you (left handers see your Wing Clipper instructions).  Align the diagonal lines on your tool with the seams in your unit.  As you can see I’m am making a 2″x4″ finished flying geese, so the cut size is 2.5″x 4.5″.  Trim the two sides as shown.

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Rotate your unit and reposition the Wing Clipper to align the previously trimmed edges and the X at the top with the intersection of the seams and trim again.

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Repeat with all your flying geese units.  I now have two sets of 2.5″ x 4.5″ flying geese.

Combination Units:  after checking my size chart I know my starter squares for 4″ finished units are 5.5″.  I cut one gold, one blue and two background squares, all 5.5″.

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Combination Units start by making half square triangles.

I grabed my Magic Wand and drew two diagonal lines on the back of one of my gold 5.5″ square.  Position the gold square on the blue with right sides together and align the edges.  Stitch on both lines using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. and cut apart.

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Press toward the dark triangle.  Grab your Magic Wand again and draw two diagonal ines on the back of both Half Square triangles.

 

Position each half square triangle on a 5.5″ background square, right sides together centering it.  Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Cut apart as shown above.

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You now have 4 combination units.  Note: this process creates units that are “mirror images”.

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Position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit, carefully aligning both diagonal lines with the stitched seams as shown and trim.

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Rotate the unit and line up the Tucker Trimmer again.  This time be sure to position both diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement desired and trim again.

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Four beautifully trimmed combination units for the corners of our block.

Quarter Square Triangles:  Check your size chart.  These are 5.5″ starter squares.

On the back of my gold square I have again used my Magic wand to draw to diagonal stitching lines.

Position the gold square over the blue square, right sides together, aligning the edges.  Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance and cut apart.

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Press toward the dark triangles. Using your Magic Wand Draw 2 diagonal lines on the back of one half square triangle.

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Position the two half square triangles right sides together, making sure the colors are opposite each other (my gold is against the blue and vice versa) carefully nesting the seams as shown above.

Stitch using a scant 1/4″ seam allowance. Cut apart and press swirling the centers as shown above.

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Position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit carefully aligning both diagonal lines over the seams lines of the unit.  Trim two sides as shown.

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Rotate the unit and line up both diagonal lines again along with the outline of the unit to the exact measurement desired and trim. Only one quarter square triangle is needed for this block center.

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Layout your units as shown above being careful of color placement.  Notice the body of my geese follow the colors in the quarter square triangle.  And the colors in the combination units are the same as the wings on the geese.

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Stitch your geese together in pairs as shown above.

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Stitch 3 units into a row as shown above.

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This shows how I pressed the block.  The outside rows were press toward the combination units, while the center row was press toward the quarter square triangle.  This allows the rows to nest nicely.

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The finished 12″ Capital T Variation block! I love It!

BlockBuster 3 – Flying Dutchman

Flying Geese are fun to make when you know how!  When you learn to use Deb Tucker’s Wing Clipper, you will make 4 flying geese at once.  With the Wing Clipper you can make finished size flying geese in 10 sizes from 1/2″ X 1″ to 5″ X 10″.  This block is called the 03 Flying Dutchman and consists of 8 flying geese.  All the instructions you need to make the flying geese units required for this block came with your Wing Clipper’s instructions.  There is a chart with step by step graphics and directions.

I chose the third option in the supply list.  Remember the large square becomes the large triangle or body in your flying geese, and the small squares become the side triangles or wings in your units.

I am making my BlockBuster blocks 12″ finished size.  That way when I’m done I can make a quilt.  When using the Wing Clipper you start with one large square and 4 small squares.  IMG_0575

For a 12″ block, my units need to be 3″ x 6″ finished size.  According to the chart in my instructions my large square should be cut 7 1/2″ and my small squares should be cut 4″.  Because I need 8 flying geese units I cut 2 large squares and 8 small squares.

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Take your Magic Wand and on the back of your small squares draw lines diagonally corner to corner as shown above.

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Position two small squares on one large square as shown.  When positioning, nudge the small squares toward the center a thread or two.  This gives you a little more to trim off.

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Sew on lines and cut apart as shown above.

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Press toward the small triangles.  Position another small square as shown above, again nudging the small square away from the edge about 1/16th of inch.

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Sew on the lines and cut apart, and press.

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You now have 4 oversized flying geese units.  Repeat the same process with the second large square and 4 small squares.

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You now have 8 oversized flying geese units.

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Position your oversized flying geese unit horizontally on your cutting mat, with unit pointed toward you as shown above.  Align the diagonal guide lines of the Wing Clipper with the sewn seams of the flying geese unit. Trim the two sides.

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Rotate your unit and reposition your Wing Clipper to align clean-up guidelines with the previously trimmed raw edges and trim.  Check your instruction for Left-handed trimming.

Lay out your units and sew 2 together to make 4 quarters, pressing your seams in the directions the geese are flying.

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Sew your 4 quarters together.

Tuckerization

Tuckerization, to Tuckerize. V.  The process of taking traditional quilt block instructions and applying process improvement techniques with Deb Tucker’s Studio 180 Tools!

I taught a Shaded Four Patch workshop last month and have been slightly obsessed with them ever since.  I keep looking for them everywhere.  I was at a quilt retreat with some fellow Certified Instructors and one them showed me a book by Sally Schneider called “Scrap Quilts Fit for a Queen, or a King, Twin, or Lap”.  There are some beautiful quilts in this book with layouts for King, Queen, Twin or Lap size (hence the title of the book). There are several quilts that contained the Shaded Four Patch Unit.  I decided to make “Happy Days”.  I love her layouts but there are better ways to construct the units for the blocks.

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Happy Days

Can you see the Shaded Four Patch Units in the quilt above?

Above is a deconstructed block using four Shaded Four Patch units.  I absolutely love how using the background fabric for the narrow strip and the rectangle  give you this pennant effect.

By using Studio 180 Design’s Shaded Four Patch Technique Sheet and the Tucker Trimmer I  was able to make oversized units and square them up perfectly.

These little beauties are Combination Units made with my Tucker Trimmer I.  When you put 4 units together it makes this great looking pin wheel for the center of the block.  These are 2″ finished units. You can make these in 11 sizes with your Tucker Trimmer.

Above is the deconstructed block consisting of the combination units center and 4 Flying Geese made with my Wing Clipper I.  You can make flying geese in 10 sizes from 1″ to 10″ with the Wing Clipper

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The inner border was made using Quarter Square Triangles, which I made using my Tucker Trimmer.  I Tuckerized the heck out of this quilt!

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Below are more blocks containing the Shaded Four Unit.

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These two blocks are made exactly the same, with the same fabric.  The only difference is that the shaded Four Patch units in the corners are turned different ways.

These blocks all contain Shaded Four Patch Units.

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The quilt on the cover of “Love of Quilting” for Jan/Feb 2017 contains Shaded Four Patch Units and can be Tuckerized  with your Trimmer I and Square/Squared tools.  I would say Studio 180 Design Tools give you Quilting Clarity!

 

OBW #60 and so much more…..

It’s December 15, 2016.  I haven’t blogged in 3 months as there was an illness in my family that took precedence.  My family has received quilts from me for Christmas for many years.  I hadn’t done that in a while, but this year I wanted to show my love for them.   I made my son Josh a One Block Wonder (OBW).  Josh is my very own Grizzly Adams.  This is my 60th One Block Wonder and is named “Camping with Friends”.  Camping with Friends was made with Alexander Henry Fabric with a 12″repeat .

Camping with Friends

Camping with Friends

Josh called me last night.  He loves the quilt.  It has grizzly bears on the back.

I finally completed a King size “Yellow Brick Road” or my oldest son Jason.  He was thrilled. He waited a long time for this quilt.

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Jason’s King Size Quilt.

As you can see, Tuck is always near by.  I made my youngest Granddaughter Samantha, a Minnie Mouse Quilt.  That prompted my sister Mary to get her a Minnie Mouse.  So, I made Minnie  a smaller scale quilt like Sam’s.  The label says “This quilt made for Minnie Mouse, By Sam’s Grandmother Jackie O’Brien”.  Of course everything fit into a tote with Minnie Mouse embroidered on it.

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Sam & Minnie’s Quilt

I had the great pleasure to spend a few days with several Studio 180 Design Certified Instructors at Bridle Creek Bed & Breakfast in Hamilton, NY.  We were hosted by Barb Hipsley, proprietor extraordinaire.  What a wonderful time we had.  the photo below shows us all in our Minion pants.

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The “Minionettes” from right to left: Barb Hipsley, Connie Farland, Debbie Thomas, Diane Marvin, Donna Hanley, ending with myself.

This time was totally devoted to quilting.  I was able to make some small quilts for my sister Mary.  She loves to put them on tables.

This quilt measure 39″ by 49″.  It is from Deb Tucker’s book Hidden Treasures.  I made 5″ blocks using the Hunter Star Petite tool.  This size hunter star makes a great baby quilt.

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Curveball

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Looks great on this old trunk.

I named this “Mary’s Stars. It is my original design. I’m very pleased with it.  I used Studio 180 Design V Block & Corner Pop  tools.  The 6″ finished star blocks are the same block, I just reversed the colors.  It measures 39′ by 45”.

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Looks great on this coffee table.

This one is called “Game Board” from a book of antique doll quilts.  It is only 22″ square.  Of course I Tuckerized it and used my Wing Clipper 1 to make all those Flying Geese.

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Game Board

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Tucker

Happy Holidays to you all from Tucker and me.