Category Archives: Studio 180 Design Tools

Flowers of the Sun – OBW #84 & the Diamond Four Patch Wedge

Continuing my journey to create interesting embellishments for my hexagon and octagon One Block Wonders (OBW’s). I created fabulous stars using Studio 180 Design’s Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet and the Wedge Star Tool.

Flowers of the Sun by South Sea Imports

Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.

Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite

I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.

I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.

I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.

Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.

Make the first cut.

From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.

You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.

Pair a section “A” with a section “B”
Mark seam intersection

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.

Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.

Stitch
Press your seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.

Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.

Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.

Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.

Diamond Four Patch Wedge
18″ Diamond Star Wedge

Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.

Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.

As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.

Tucker Trimmer I

Tucker Trimmer III

Flowers of the Sun measures 65″ X 77″.

Misty Jungle OBW #83 with Capped 60 Cubes

I pulled this 2004 Alexander Henry fabric called Misty Jungle from my stash to play with adding Capped 60 cubes to my OBW.

Alexander Henry Misty Jungle

Although the fabric has a 24″ repeat the design elements were about 3 to 4 inches, so I decided to cut my strips 3 1/4″ to make 5″ finished hexagons. Using my Star 60 tool, I cut my equilateral triangles.

Once I designed my hexies to get an almost final design, It’s time to decide about cubes. I am using Deb Tucker’s Capped 60 Techniques Sheet. The Capped 60 Technique Sheet offers cutting instruction for 17 sizes in whole & half inch increments.

Capped 60 Unit

Above is a Capped 60 Unit. The cutting instructions are based on finished units. I cut my triangles for a 5″ finished hexagon, which would mean my individual triangles would measure 3″ unfinished and 2 1/2″ finished.

We begin by choosing 3 fabrics, light, medium and dark values. Where you place the light fabric gives the illusion of light shinning on it. The strips for both the trapezoids and triangles are the same width.

Cutting Trapezoids. I am making 2 1/2″ finished units so I cut 2″ strips and placed the 3 1/2″ Bottom Horizontal Line on the bottom of my strip to cut my trapezoids. Then rotate the Star 60 tool and place the 3 1/2″ line on the top of the strip and continue cutting trapezoids.

Cutting Triangles. Align the mark near the tip of the tool with the top of the strip and the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the width of the strip and cut. Rotate the Star 60 tool and continue cutting your triangles.

For each cubed hexagon you will need 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark trapezoids, and 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark triangles.

To make this cube begin by laying out your trapezoids and triangles shown above.

Align one edge of the triangle with the top of the trapezoid, matching the flat edge of the triangle to the top of the trapezoid as shown above.

Once you have laid out your trapezoids and triangles and know what triangles are to be stitched to what trapezoids you can chain stitch and make the process go fast.

Stitch and press seams open. Your unit consists of the Point, Left Side, Right Side and Base.

Trimming the Base. Position the unit so that the base is on the right if right handed or left if left handed. Align the Diamond Point Guideline that corresponds to the finished size of the unit on the seam between the triangle and trapezoid as shown. Trim the base along the side of the ruler.

Trimming the Right and/or Left Side. Locate the Triangle Point Trim Line in the chart for your size. Position the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the Triangle Point Trim Line on the seam between the trapezoid and triangle. Trim both sides.

Layout your trimmed units and stitch them into pairs of three as you do your equilateral triangles for the hexagons. Press seams open.

I chose to make Capped 60 Cubes in three color ways. I auditioned them in several places before deciding on the best placement.

Misty Jungle, OBW 83, measures 61″ x 62″

When I cut my strips for the hexagons I had 2 1/2″ left, not enough for the hexies. I decided to cut out smaller triangles to add to a border.

To give the illusion that the hexies are floating I added Half Hexies cut from the border fabric. The instructions for cutting Half Hexagons are located on page 10 of your Star 60 Instructions.

Click here to download Star 60 Instructions:

Rainbow Kitty OBW #82 & the Star 60 Tool

The official name for this quilt is Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty. This quilt was made with love for my Granddaughter Sam. It was supposed to be finished for Christmas but it is in time for my special Valentine.

Panel by Chong-A-Hwang for Timeless Treasures

Why did I choose 5.5″ Finished Hexagons?

This panel measured 23 inches wide. I chose 5.5″ (Cut my strips 3.5″) finished hexies because 4 X 5.5 = 22″. Now I only have trim 1/2″ from both sides and my hexies will fit along the bottom and the top of the panel.

Checkerboard 60

I wanted to add a large star to my design. Using my Star 60 Tool and Checkerboard 60 Technique Sheet I was able to make a great star.

I began by deciding on what size to make my star. I wanted it twice as big as my 5.5″ finished hexies, hmmm, that means an 11″ finished star. The Checkerboard Technique sheet makes beautiful stars in 17 sizes from 2″ up to 18″ in 1″ increments. I needed to make 5.5″ Finished units. I followed technique sheet instructions for a 6″ Finished Units and will trim them so they would finish at 5.5″ units.

Step 1 – Make two strip sets.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other right sides down. Using the Star 60 tool and a regular ruler establish the 60 degree angle.

From the first cut, cut additional angled sections the same width as the as the cut size of the diamond strips.

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure the inner and outer diamonds are oriented correctly. The pink diamonds will be the inner part of my star. The outer diamonds are yellow.

Mark 1/4″ seam allowance using the Magic Wand.

On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams on the wrong side.

Pin section A & B

Stitch your section “A” with Section “B” units.

Press the seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer diamond using the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the Outer Diamond Trim Guidelines for a 5″ finished unit.

First cut.

Continue cutting side triangles.

Step 5 – Add the side triangles.

Layout the right side triangles.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the diamond. (Whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

Layout the left side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

After it is stitched, but before you press, trim the unit as shown above to remove bulk.

Press toward the side triangle.

Step 6 – Trim the pieced Star 60 unit suing the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the 5″ finished unit guidelines.

Step 7 – Describes the trimming the final edge. I did not complete this trim. Remember, I need an 11″ finished star, which means I need 5.5″ finished units. I accomplished this by trimming the diamonds per the 5″ guidelines. I created an 11″ finished star by NOT trimming the outer edges of the star.

Layout your diamond units.

Stitch your diamond units together creating two halves.

Making Star 60’s – To make 5.5″ finished Stars, I am following the cutting instructions for 3″ Finished Units. Remember, the chart refers to UNITS not to Finished Stars! To use the chart, first determine the desired finished size of your unit, then follow the row across for the strip size for the shape you want to cut.

Cutting the Diamonds – I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units. Trim one short edge at a 60 degree angle as shown above. Locate the Diamond Sub-Cut Guideline in the chart which for 3″ finished units is 4″. Align those guidelines with the raw edges of the strip and the angled cut just made as shown in the diagram. Cut along the leading edge of the tool to create oversized diamond shapes.

Cut your side triangles. For 3″ finished units the side triangle strips are 2 1/2″.

Layout the right side triangle.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the Diamond. Layout the remaining side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

Trim the bulk as shown above.

Press toward the side triangle.

I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units, BUT I’m making 5.5″ finished stars, so I’m trimming the Diamond Point using the 2 1/2″ guidelines. I do not trim the outer edges of the unit to obtain a 5.5″ finished star.

Star 60 Units

Stitch units into two halves.

Designing With the Hexagons

The final layout

After I numbered my rows, I stitched the four rows above the checkerboard star into two rows, and the same with the four rows under the checkerboard star as shown in photo 1. Photo 2 shows stitching the top and bottom row to the checkerboard star halves. Photo 3 shows the two rows joined together.

Continue to stitch rows into 4 sections, Left, Right, Top & Bottom.

I placed the bottom section right sides together to verify how much I need to trim off the sides of the panel so it will be the same width as the top and bottom hexies. In this case I trimmed 1/2″ off both sides.

You can choose to attach either the top or bottom hexies first. I chose the bottom because I wanted to control where the hexies attached to the bottom of the panel. After the hexies are laid out and stitched together we loose 1/4″ between them. I felt I could safely loose a couple of inches off the top of the panel without affecting the design. But I did not want to loose inches off the panel bottom.

I pressed the bottom hexies under 1/4″ and top stitched them to the panel.

Match up the hexies/dog ears of the left side with hexies/dog ears on the bottom. Stitch leaving about 12″ from the top of the panel.

Place the panel and partially stitched left side on a table and place the top hexies on top of the panel matching up the dog ears to establish where the top hexies will be stitched to the panel.

Pin top to the panel being sure the dog ears match up to the left side hexies.

Top Stitch the top hexies to the panel. Finish stitching the left side to the panel and top hexies.

Match up the dog ears of the right side and stitch.

Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty, measures 75″ X 70″. I will quilt it as soon as the backing arrives.

It’s December! Time for Christmas Tree Quilts

I love Christmas & I love Christmas Tree Quilts! Over the years I have made several and decided to share some with you. Studio 180 Design tools gives you several ways to easily make Christmas Trees.

I Believe

I made this 7 years ago for my Granddaughter Samantha. I Believe uses the V Block tool. Below is the supply list:

Deck the Halls

I made Deck the Halls for Northcott Fabrics in 2019. It is made with Tucker Trimmer I & Wing Clipper I. Below is the supply list:

Split Rects Christmas Tree

The Split Rects Christmas Tree wall hanging is made with the Split Rects tool. The supply list is below:

Wing Clipper Wall Hanging

The Wing Clipper wall hanging is made with 4 Flying Geese using the Wing Clipper I. The supply list is below:

Kermits Christmas Tree

This Skinny Christmas Tree was made using all 10 sizes the Wing Clipper I makes. Supply List is below:

Happy Holidays everyone!

Journeys Month 2 – Triangle Units

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 2. My helper for Month 2 is Amy Lemke, a talented graphic artist for Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make Half Square Triangles (HSTs) and Combination Units with your Tucker Trimmer I with Prints 1, 2, 5, 10, & 11. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.

Prints 1, 2, 5, 10 & 11.

Tip: I use plain paper plates and write on them what it is I have cut out. For instance, if you are new to using a Tucker Trimmer, I would label 6 paper plates: one for each print. Using a pen or pencil label the first plate “Print 1, Combination Units (unit D)”, and so on.

Half Square Triangle Construction

Note: For more information and left handed cutting and trimming directions, refer to the instruction that came with your Tucker Trimmer.

Prints 5, 10, & 11.

Step 1 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal. Draw the lines on the wrong side of all the 7” squares from Print 11. I like to use my Quilter’s Magic Wand™ for this task.

Mark using a Magic Wand.

Step 2 – Layer the 7” Print 11 squares right sides together with the 7” squares from Prints 5 and 10. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press away from Print 11 or open.

Layer.

Stitch and cut apart.

Press.

Step 3 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Trimmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam and trim the first two sides.

First Trim

Step 4 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees and align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the outside edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Half Square Triangle units. Label the units made with Print 5 Unit C, and label the units with Print 10 Unit B.

Second Trim

Make 8 each from prints 10 & 11 and prints 5 & 11.

Combination Unit Construction

Prints 1, 2 & 11

Step 5 – Repeat steps 1 and 2 using the 7½” squares from Print 1 and Print 2 to make 4 Half Square Triangles. Press away from Print 2 or open. Do not trim!

Starter Squares

Step 6 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal line of the pieced Half Square Triangles.

Mark back of HSTs

Step 7 – Position the pieced squares right sides together with the 7½” Print 11 squares. Note that the edges are not intended to match. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press toward the large triangle.

Stitch, cut apart & press.

Step 8 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Timmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the long seam and the Common Diagonal with the short seam. Trim the first two sides.

First Trim

Step 9 – Rotate the unit 180o and align the Sizing and Common Diagonals with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the trimmed edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Combination units. Label them Unit D.

Second Trim

Congratulations, you have learned to make half square triangles and combination units using your Tucker Trimmer I.

Getting Ready for Journey BOM Month 1

Journey’s Month 1 will start shipping September 29th. I will post the Month 1 blog on October 6th, 2020. In the meantime if you haven’t used your Four Patch Square Up tool yet watch Deb Tucker’s Four Patch Square Up Video:

A Prickly Situation – OBW #76

Yes, I’m at it again! Actually I’ve had this panel cut out since last Fall. I love One Block Wonders (OBWs). Sometimes I add cubes to create design interest or just for fun. It occurred to me that Studio 180 Design has a new Star 60 tool.

You can use this tool to cut equilateral triangles easily, along with 60 degree diamonds and side triangles in 17 sizes to create a multitude of 60 degree designs.

I played with Star 60 and created kaleidoscope stars and this 48″ star. Light Bulb moment!!!! Instead of inserting cubes in my OBW, why not a star?

I usually have left over triangles when designing my OBW’s. I had equilateral triangles cut that had a dark edge that was larger than a 1/4″. I was thought it might not make a pretty hexie. These triangles had been cut from 3 3/4″ strips. I laid my Star 60 tool on the triangles and discovered I could cut 3″ diamonds from it. This allowed me to use these left over triangles in a different way.

Way cool! Now I needed side triangles for the star points. I checked the size chart for 3″ diamonds and cut the appropriate size strip,

I cut the side triangles for my diamond star points.

Lay out your units. Stitch the first side triangle to the diamond and press toward the diamond.

Stitch the opposite side triangle, press toward the side triangle. LOOK what you have! An equilateral triangle.

Stitch 3 triangles together, and then the other 3 together, press seams open as you would a regular hexagon.

I began designing around my panel. I had great fabric “Canvas” from Northcott. This rich colors worked so well with panel.

I have stitched my hexie’s into four sections to add to my panel. My hexies were cut from 3 3/4″ strips, which means they will finish as a 6″ hexagon. For 6″ hexies to fit evenly across the width this panel should measure 18″ or 24″ wide. This panel is less than 24″ wide.

I did not want to trim my panel to 18″ so I added enough fabric to the panel to bring it up to 24″ wide and would be evenly divisible by 6″. Now to hide the strip.

There are 9 & a 1/2 Star 60 hexie’s in this quilt. The Star 60 tool also made it easy to cut half & whole hexagons. I’ve just barley scratched the surface of cool 60 degree design’s that can be added to a One Block Wonder. You can download my hints for using panels in a OBW below:

Next Up – Shaded Four Patch

Got some fat quarters? Deb Tucker has many free patterns for you and this one is called Twilight Paths. It uses 14 fat quarters and a background with the Tucker Trimmer I. Twilight paths uses 5″ finished Shaded Four Patch units (5.5″ unfinished). The Shaded Four Patch Technique Sheet shows you haw to make this unit in 21 sizes! This whole quilt is made with Shaded Four Patches!

This is Twilight Paths using Deb Tucker’s Twilight Chic fabric line from Island Batik!

Download your pattern and let’s go!

To get a great scrappy quilt, Deb suggests that you split your fat quarters into two groups. Group 1 along the 22″ side, cut two 3 1/4″ strips and one 6″ strip, sub-cutting into 3 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. Group 2 along the 22″ side, cut one 3 1/4″ strip and two 6″ strips, sub-cutting each into 3 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. Cut one more 3 1/3″ strip from leftover from Group 1.

From your assorted dark fat quarters you will need 22 – 3 1/4″ strips, and 64 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. From your background you will need 22 – 4 1/4″ strips.

Step 1 – Position each 3 1/4″ strip right sides together with a 4 1/4″ wide background strip and stitch lengthwise. Press seams toward the wider strip.

Step 2 – Pair two of the pieced strips right sides together with the narrow strips on opposite sides, so that each narrow strip faces a wide background strip.   Sub-cut the strip sets every 3 1/4″ units until you have 128 rectangles.

128 – 3 1/4″ units
Pick up each unit the same way when stitching one side.

Step 3 – Keep the two rectangles paired; stitch each pair of cut pieces together along one long side. Note the seams are not supposed to nest.

Snip

Snip the seam allowance at the half way mark between the two squares all the way to the seam. 

Press each half of the seam allowance away from the square as shown above.

Step 4 – Mark stitching lines. Select a ruler with a 45 degree angle marked on it.  Draw a 45 degree sewing line from top to bottom, through the corner of the square where the stitching lines meet.  Draw a 2nd line through the corner of the other square.

Step 5 – Center each marked, pieced rectangles right sides together with a 6″ x 7″ rectangle.

Stitch on both lines.

Trim seams 1/4″ from the stitching lines.

Press all seams toward the large triangles.

Step 6 – Trim the 128 oversized units with your Tucker Trimmer I to 5 1.2″ x 5 1/2″. Align the 5 1/2″ Sizing Diagonal with the diagonal seam of the unit. Position the common diagonal so it passes through the center of the unit. Trim the two sides.

Step 7 – Rotate the unit and line up the 5 1/2″ cut size lines on the tool with the previously trimmed edges, align the sizing diagonal and the common diagonal as before and trim the other two edges.

Step 8 – Layout 80 units according to the diagram on page 5 to create the quilt center.

Stitch the units into rows and then stitch the rows together. Press all seams open.

Step 9 – Attach the Inner Border. Stitch the inner border strips to the quilt center.

Step 10 – Assemble the Outer Border. Stitch the remaining units together into 4 border strips containing 12 units each. Make sure you orient the units as shown in the pattern. Press all seams open. Finish as indicated.

My top is not yet quilted. I used Deb Tucker s Steam Engine fabric line by Island Batik in my quilt top. So I guess I will call mine Steam Engine on the Tracks!

This project was supervised by Tucker!

#debtucker #studio180design #IslandBatik #steamengine #aurifilthread #bernina740 #olfa

Pyramid Power

The fabrics shown in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

December’s challenge is to explore the world of 3D by using optical illusions, textures, trapunto or whatever else will make your quilt pop into life! I chose to make Pyramid Power, a pattern by Running with Scissors & Studio 180 Design. I think the design looks like perfectly folded boxes that must contain wonderful chocolates inside.

It is a bright sunny day here in Central NY and a balmy 11 degrees outside!

This pattern uses Studio 180 Design Corner Pop II & Corner Pop III. These tools give you perfectly popped corners with little waste. The Corner Pop II pops corners with a 2 to 1 ratio while the Corner Pop II gives a 3 to 1 ratio.

I used Island Batik’s Tropical Escape line due out in January.

The key is to stay organized. I chose 7 light & 7 dark scraps Fat Eighths. I paired each dark fabric with a light fabric of the same color.

We will be making Type 1 and Type 2 Triangle Units.

I use paper plates to keep me organized. As I cut the triangles with the Corner Pop II, I placed Type 1 on the right plate and Type 2 on the left plate. Do the same thing for the Background Triangles.

Once you have constructed your Triangle Units it’s time to pop off the corner with the Corner Pop III.

Cut your replacement triangles with the Corner Pop III and get ready to stitch them to the triangle units.

Center the triangle unit over the replacement triangle and stitch.

Trim the unit using Corner Pop III.

I used my Magic Wand to mark the 1/4″ seam to help line up and carefully pin to stitch one Type 1 unit to a Type 2 Unit.

Pyramid Power Twin Size measures 51″ x 72″. Pieced with Aurifil thread and finished with Hobbs Cotton Batting.

It has been my great joy to be an Island Batik Ambassador for 2018 & 2019. I was so honored to included in a this group of widely talented & creative quilter’s. I will not be returning for 2020, I will miss you all so much. But I am excited to see what Ambassadors with be sharing next year!

 #islandbatikambassador #islandbatik #iloveislandbatik  #hobbsbatting #aurifil #aurifilthread #bernina #debtucker #omnigrid #Olfa #studio180design

Island Batik’s “A Piece Of” Blog Hop

The fabrics shown in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Tropical Escape

Last January Island Batik gave me a secret bundle to hold onto till November, it was Tropical Escape shown above. I sat and looking at the bundle of gorgeous fabrics, waiting for them to talk to me. The goal is for me to introduce the Tropical Escape fabric line by making a quilt showcasing as many of the 20 fabrics as possible.

I decided to use Studio 180 Design’s BlockBuster pattern #29 Pointsettia. This block requires the Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star, Split Rects and Tucker Trimmer I tools. You can download the BlockBuster pattern below:

I loved that the Poinsettia block could be made in 7″, 14″ or 21″ finished blocks. I chose the 21″ blocks.

Time to break out the paper plates. I sorted my fabrics by color and value, pairing a light/medium value with a darker value. This would allow me to use 16 different fabrics to form the flowers. I would use the lighter value fabric for the Lemoyne star quarters and the darker value fabrics for the split rects units.

My tip for staying organized while making Lemoyne stars is to label two paper plates, one “A” & one “B”. Follow the Lemoyne star tool instructions. When you come to Step 7, make one 45 degree cut – then imediateley reposition your ruler to cut the side triangles as you go.

If you are right handed the “B” strip was on the bottom & the “A” strip was on top. Place the “A” unit on the plate marked “A” and the “B” unit on the plate marked “B”, place one triangle on each plate also. (If you are left handed the “A” strip would be on the bottom and the “B” strip would be on top). Continue cutting your units, placing each unit on their assigned plate. Construct the Lemoyne units as instructed. Throughout the process you will always know which units are “A” and which are “B”. This is important for knowing which way to press your seams. Another tip for pressing the lemoyne star units is to “remember, the Lemoyne star point should always be pointed to the left”. To make Lemoyne star quarters you will square them up using your Tucker Trimmer 1 before stitching them to the split rects units.

Layout your Lemoyne quarters with your mirror image split rects units and stitch together.

Press seams as shown above.

Continue making your Lemoyne star quarters/split rects units. They are all constructed the same way.

Stitch a background rectangle with each Lemoyne quarter/split rects unit as shown. Follow block assembly instruction in the BlockBuster #29 pattern.

At first I decided to make 6 – 21″ blocks measuring 60″ x 83″.

But I discovered I had enough units to make 9 blocks with left over Lemoyne quarters for the use in the outer border. Quilt measures 83″ x 83″.

It’s funny how this quilt came about. It stared with Island Batik’s fabric line: Tropical Escape; BlockBuster’s Pointsettia block (a Christmas flower); and it is named after a canyon in Arizona. I named this quilt Copper Canyon Blooms as I think they look like desert blooms! In the supply list below I’ve given you fabric requirements for both the 6 block top and the 9 block top.

#islandbatik #bestofbali #tropicalescape #studio180design #blockbusters #EQ8

I visited the Oneida County Historical Society to take this photo on the steps.