I saw this fabric by Alexander Henry and just had to have it. It is a large print with a 24″ repeat and is full of vibrant colors. I knew I want to add a large star constructed from Star 60 & Quad 60 units.
I made 3″ finished Quad 60 and Star 60 units.
I thought I would incorporate this 12″ hexagon into my design as is.
But, I decided to add points turning it into a 24″ star by adding 6″ finished Quad 60’s for the points.
The photo’s above show how I made the 6″ hexagons and the 24″ star fit together.
Rainbow Forest is not yet quilted, but it will be soon.
Welcome, Welcome, Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journey’s BOM – Month 12! This has been a spectacular year. You all have worked so hard. Thank you to Deb Luttrell, Founder of Stitchin Heaven, Deb Tucker, Creative Kingpin of Studio 180 Design, Marie Bostwick New York Times best selling author and Jason Yenter Fabric Designer & President of In the Beginning Fabrics for making this all possible. Now to assemble your quilts!
Note: WOF stands for width of fabric. This month you will assemble your quilt top and add the borders.
Gather the following pieces:
4 Corner Sections from Month 6
Block K from Month 7
4 Middle Edge Sections from Month 9
4 Pieced Border sections from Month 11
Step 1 – Lay out the Corner Sections, Middle Edge Sections, and Block K as shown in the diagram on page 35.
Step 2 – Stitch the sections together into rows, press the seams open. Stitch the rows together to create the quilt center.
Step 3 – Attach the 72½” Print 11 inner border strips. Find the center of the quilt and the center of the 72½” border strip. Match the center points with right sides together, pin. Match both ends of the strip with the ends of the quilt and pin in place. Ease the quilt top to match the border strip and add more pins between the others to hold the border in place as you stitch. Attach the other 72½” border to the opposite side in the same manner and press toward the inner border strip.
Step 4 – Repeat step 3 for the 75½” Print 11 border strips.
Step 5 – Attach the 75½” Print 6 middle border strips. Using two of the border strips, stitch them to the quilt in the same manner as in step 3. Press toward Print 6.
Step 6 – Stitch a Print 4 middle border corner stone to each end of the remining 2”x 75½” Print 6 borders. Press toward the middle border.
Step 7 – Attach the remining two middle border strips to the quilt as described in step 3. Make sure to nest the seams. Press toward the middle border.
Step 8 – Add the pieced borders. Start with the borders that do not have the N Units on the ends. Orient the pieced borders so that the Corner Pops are against the middle border and the points of the V Blocks are pointing away from the quilt center. Refer to the diagram. Find the center of the quilt top and the center of the pieced border. Match the centers and pin. Match each end and pin. Ease the border to match the quilt top and add more pins between the others to hold the border in place as you stitch. Stitch in place. Press toward the middle border.
Step 9 – Repeat step 8 for the other pieced borders with the N Units attached to the ends. After you have matched the centers and the ends, make sure that you nest the Corner Beam seam with the seam attaching the pieced border.
Note: We recommend that you wait to cut your outer borders to length until you can measure your quilt top. To determine your specific border length, measure the longest side of your quilt in three different places. If those measurements are different, add the three measurements together and divide by three. That will be the length that you need to cut your first two borders. Once the first two borders are attached to the quilt repeat the process for the remaining two sides.
Step 10 – Add the outer borders. Find the center of the quilt and the center of the 90½” outer border strip. Match the center points with right sides together, pin, match either end of the strip with the ends of the quilt, and pin in place. Add more pins between the others, about every 4”, to hold the border in place as you stitch. Attach the other 90½” border to the opposite side in the same manner and press toward the outer border strip.
Step 11 – Repeat step 10 for the 102½” outer border strips.
Step 12 – Finish with Batting, Backing, Quilting, and Binding! Layer quilt top with batting and backing. Baste and quilt. Bind and Enjoy!
Thank you all so much for joining us on this Journey! Congratulations on a job well done!
I love Josephine Wall’s art, her fabric panels are glorious. They make spectacular One Block Wonders.
These panels must have been either the beginning of the run or the last. The outer edges were off be about 1/2″. I focused on aligning the panels around the unicorn. The outer edges were mostly space so it was not crucial they be perfectly aligned. I cut my strips 3.75″ by WOF.
Welcome everyone to Stitchin Heavens Journey Month 11 BOM – Victory Block: Part 2. Time fly’s when you are having fun! This month you are learning to use Studio 180 Design Corner Pop tool.
You will be popping off the corners of the of 52 Victory blocks from Month 10 and adding Print 3 to the corners.
Step 1 – Position a Unit P from month 10 right side up with the point away from you on the cutting mat. On your Corner Pop® tool, find the 3” Cut Away Corners line. Position the 3” Cut Away lines of the tool over one of the corners that has a seam going into the corner as shown.
Step 2 – Cut away the corner. Repeat on the same corner for all 52 units.
Step 3 – Center one 4¼” Print 3 replacement triangle with its long side on the trimmed corner of each V Block unit. Stitch using an accurate ¼” seam. Press the seam toward the replacement triangle.
Step 4 – Position the 3” Corner Trim Down line of the tool over the seam. Align the diagonal guideline with the seam and the edges of the unit with the edges of the tool. Trim the Corner. Repeat for all P units.
Step 5 – Cut away the second corner of all 52 units. Position the 3” Cut Away lines on the tool over the second corner that has a seam going into the corner as shown.
Step 6 – Repeat steps 3 & 4 for all units so that you have 52 Victory Blocks. This time around, in step 3, press the seam away from the replacement triangle toward the V Block unit.
Step 7 – Lay out your Victory Block units as shown to make 4 pieced border sections. Each border section has 13 Victory Block units.
Step 8 – Stitch the units together into the 4 pieced border sections needed. Press the seams between the units open.
Step 9 – Set two border sections aside. With the remining two borders, add a Unit N from month 9 to each end of the border section as shown.
Step 10 – Press the seams open. Set the final two borders aside to use next month to finish your quilt top.
Congratulations, you all have done so well in months 1 – 11. Next month is our final post. I can’t wait to see your completed Journey quilts!
I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.
I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.
I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM – Month 10 Victory Block: Part 1. This month you will be using Studio 180 Design V Block tool. Sarah Furrer is my helper this month.
Unit P, V Blocks will be cut from Print 1 & Print 4.
Step 1 – Cut the Center Triangles from Print 4 strips. Lay the strip out and fold over the end of the strip as shown. Position the V Block® tool on the strip so that the Fold Line for Center Triangle is on the fold and the bottom of the strip is lined up with the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool).
Step 2 – Cut along the slanted edge of the tool. Unfold the piece to reveal a Center Triangle. Flip the strip top to bottom as shown.
Step 3 – Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip, and cut the next triangle.
Step 4 – Continue to cut triangles. Flip the strip, cut a center triangle, flip, and cut again. Continue until you have 52 center triangles total.
Step 5– Position the Print 1 Side Triangle strips wrong sides or right sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Cut Line for Side Triangles line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 6– Rotate the V Block® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the angled edge of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 52 pairs of Side Triangles from Print 1.
Step 7– Lay out the center triangles and the side triangle pairs.
Step 8– Align and stitch one side triangle to the center triangle. Use care to make sure you are lining up the correct edges of both the center and side triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Do this for all center triangles.
Step 9– Position the remaining side triangles on the other side of the center triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Repeat for all units
Step 10– Trim the units. Place the V Block unit on the cutting mat right side up with the point of the Center Triangle closest to you. Position the V Block® tool on the unit, aligning the 6” Finished Size measurement with the seam lines. Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 11– Rotate the unit 180o and reposition the tool on top, aligning the trimmed edges of the unit with the Cut Size measurement of 6½” and placing the point of the Center Triangle “V” in the “X” at the top of the tool. Trim the remining two sides. Trim all 52 units.
See instructions for left hand cutting. Congratulations, you have learned another new skill and how to use the V Block tool.
I made this quilt for my sister Mary. She came with me to every doctors appointment and every cancer treatment for nine months. Mary had to wait in the car during these (winter) appointments because of COVID restrictions. She loves this pattern and I was so happy to make it for her.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven‘s Journeys BOM Month 9. You all have worked so hard. This month you will learn to use your Corner Beam tool. Sue Tucker & Naz are my helpers for Month 9.
You will be working with Print 1, 4 and 11 this month.
Cutting the Center Beams
Step 1 – Stack the 7” center beam squares up to 4 layers deep. Align the Center Beam Trim #1 line on your Corner Beam® tool and the 6” finished unit line (bottom edge of tool) with the raw edges of your stack of squares. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 2 – Rotate and cut again. Lift and reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled Center Beam Trim #2 with the previously trimmed angled edge. Cut again. Do this for all your center beam squares.
Cutting the Side Triangles
Step 3 – Fold the side triangle strip right or wrong sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Side Triangles Trim #1 line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 4 – Rotatethe Corner Beam® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the bottom of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 8 pairs of side triangles from Print 11 and 4 pairs of side triangles from Print 1.
Step 5 – Lay out and organize your pieces into the correct positions as shown to ensure you sew the proper sides together.
Step 6 – Stitch the first side triangle to each center beam, making sure you sew the correct triangle edge to the center beam. Press the seams open.
Step 7 – Stitch the second side triangle to the other side of each center beam. Press each seam open
Step 8 – Position the trim down area of your Corner Beam® tool on your unit. Carefully line up the diagonal seam guidelines on the Corner Beam® tool with the diagonal seams of your unit. Trim.
Step 9 – Rotate your unit. Align the cleanup lines for the 6½” cut size with the cut edges, the V shaped guideline with the seam intersection, and the tick marks with the seams at the wide end of the beam. Trim. Repeat for all units. Label as indicated in the Unit Summary.
Assemble 4 Middle Edge Sections
It is time to assemble the four Middle Edge Sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:
Step 10 – Lay out the units as shown to create the Middle Edge Section.
Step 11 – Stitch the units together into rows. Press the seams open between the units.
Step 12 – Stitch the rows together into the Middle Edge Section. Press the seams open between rows.
Step 13 – Repeat steps 10-12 to make a total of 4 Middle Edge Sections.
Make 4 Middle Edge Sections. Congratulations on work well done!
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Block of the Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2. I know you all worked so hard last month on your Liberty Stars. You learned how to make Uneven Chains in month 1, so this month should be a breeze. We will again be using the Four Patch Square Up tool.
This month we will be using prints 6, 10 & 11
Step 1 – Stitch your strips together into Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam.
Step 2 – Press your strip sets. In all strip sets, press toward Print 6. A helpful pressing tip: whatever you are pressing toward goes on top.
Step 3 – Sub-cut the strip sets using the information in the diagrams above. Make sure to use the correct sub-cut size for the strip set you are working with and cut the correct number of pieces needed.
Step 4 – Lay out the pieces from Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C as shown. Stitch an A piece to one side of the C piece and Stitch a B piece to the other side. Make sure you sew the correct piece on each side so that it looks like the diagram.
Step 5 – Press the unit so that the seams spin. To spin the seam, lay the last sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the two or three threads in the center on both sides that run north to south, and press so all the seams go in the same direction.
Step 6 – Trim the unit to size. Position the unit as shown on your cutting mat and locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square up® tool. The finished sizes are located above the words Finished Size Four Patches – Center. Position the circle over the seam intersection between the small and large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines radiating from the circle align with your seams.
Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees. Align the 3” finished size circle over the other intersection of the small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines align with your seams and that the 6½” cut size clean up lines align with the outside trimmed edges. Trim the remaining two sides. Once all 16 units are made, label them Unit L.
Congratulations, you’ve completed month 8 and I’ll bet you are even more comfortable using the Four Patch Square Up tool.
Remember, you can go back and search for any of the Journey’s posts, they are never deleted and I’m always available for questions.
Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.
I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.
I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.
I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.
Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.
Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.
Make the first cut.
From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.
You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.
Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.
Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.
Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.
Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.
Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.
Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.
Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.
Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.
As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.