Category Archives: Studio 180 Design Tools

DreamScapes – OBW #87 & Quad 60

I have had this panel by Artisan Spirit Dreamscapes by Ira Kennedy for Northcott for several years. The Dreamscapes panel measures 13″ x 20″. It came two in a panel, so I ended up with 14.

I partially completed the first set of 7 panels to show how to add the sections to the panel. I save this OBW classes.

I finally decided to complete the 2nd set of panels. I cut the strips 2 3/4″ for 4″ finished hexies. In hind site I wish I would have made them smaller. To add more hexies and enhance the hexies I had, I added stars made with the Quad 60 Technique Sheet and my Star 60 Tool. My Dreamscapes wall hanging measures 35″ x 41″

#studio180design #DebTucker #Star60 #Quad60 #Northcottfabrics #Quiltersdreambatting #Irakennedy

Journeys Month 10 – Victory Block: Part 1

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM – Month 10 Victory Block: Part 1. This month you will be using Studio 180 Design V Block tool. Sarah Furrer is my helper this month.

Unit P, V Blocks will be cut from Print 1 & Print 4.

Piecing Instructions

Step 1 – Cut the Center Triangles from Print 4 strips. Lay the strip out and fold over the end of the strip as shown. Position the V Block® tool on the strip so that the Fold Line for Center Triangle is on the fold and the bottom of the strip is lined up with the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool).

Step 1

Step 2 – Cut along the slanted edge of the tool. Unfold the piece to reveal a Center Triangle. Flip the strip top to bottom as shown.

Step 2

Step 3 – Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip, and cut the next triangle.

Step 4 – Continue to cut triangles. Flip the strip, cut a center triangle, flip, and cut again. Continue until you have 52 center triangles total.

Flip the strip.
Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip.
Continue to cut triangles.

Step 5 – Position the Print 1 Side Triangle strips wrong sides or right sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Cut Line for Side Triangles line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 5

Step 6 – Rotate the V Block® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the angled edge of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 52 pairs of Side Triangles from Print 1.

Step 6

Step 7 – Lay out the center triangles and the side triangle pairs.

Step 7

Step 8 – Align and stitch one side triangle to the center triangle. Use care to make sure you are lining up the correct edges of both the center and side triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Do this for all center triangles.

Step 8 – this photo shows layering the V Block unit on top of the side triangle
Stitch and press seams open.

Step 9 – Position the remaining side triangles on the other side of the center triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Repeat for all units

Position remaining side triangles on the other side.
Stitch & press seams open.

Step 10 – Trim the units. Place the V Block unit on the cutting mat right side up with the point of the Center Triangle closest to you. Position the V Block® tool on the unit, aligning the 6” Finished Size measurement with the seam lines. Trim the first two sides of the unit.

Trim up the side and across the top

Step 11 – Rotate the unit 180o and reposition the tool on top, aligning the trimmed edges of the unit with the Cut Size measurement of 6½” and placing the point of the Center Triangle “V” in the “X” at the top of the tool. Trim the remining two sides. Trim all 52 units.

Trim 2 – trim up the side and across the top.
Make 52 Unit P V Blocks

See instructions for left hand cutting. Congratulations, you have learned another new skill and how to use the V Block tool.

Starget

I just finished Studio 180 Design pattern “Starget” by Deb Tucker. This quilt finishes at 88″ x 104″. It requires V Block, Square/Squared, Wing Clipper I & Split Rects tools.

I made this quilt for my sister Mary. She came with me to every doctors appointment and every cancer treatment for nine months. Mary had to wait in the car during these (winter) appointments because of COVID restrictions. She loves this pattern and I was so happy to make it for her.

Journeys Month 9 – Corner Beam

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven‘s Journeys BOM Month 9. You all have worked so hard. This month you will learn to use your Corner Beam tool. Sue Tucker & Naz are my helpers for Month 9.

You will be working with Print 1, 4 and 11 this month.

Cutting the Center Beams

Step 1 – Stack the 7” center beam squares up to 4 layers deep. Align the Center Beam Trim #1 line on your Corner Beam® tool and the 6” finished unit line (bottom edge of tool) with the raw edges of your stack of squares. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 1

Step 2 – Rotate and cut again. Lift and reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled Center Beam Trim #2 with the previously trimmed angled edge. Cut again. Do this for all your center beam squares.

Step 2
Step 2

Cutting the Side Triangles

Step 3 – Fold the side triangle strip right or wrong sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Side Triangles Trim #1 line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 3

Step 4 – Rotate the Corner Beam® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the bottom of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 8 pairs of side triangles from Print 11 and 4 pairs of side triangles from Print 1.

Step 4

Step 5 – Lay out and organize your pieces into the correct positions as shown to ensure you sew the proper sides together.

Step 6 – Stitch the first side triangle to each center beam, making sure you sew the correct triangle edge to the center beam. Press the seams open.

Press seams open

Step 7 – Stitch the second side triangle to the other side of each center beam. Press each seam open

Step 8 – Position the trim down area of your Corner Beam® tool on your unit. Carefully line up the diagonal seam guidelines on the Corner Beam® tool with the diagonal seams of your unit. Trim.

Step 8

Step 9 – Rotate your unit. Align the cleanup lines for the 6½” cut size with the cut edges, the V shaped guideline with the seam intersection, and the tick marks with the seams at the wide end of the beam. Trim. Repeat for all units. Label as indicated in the Unit Summary.

Step 9

Assemble 4 Middle Edge Sections

It is time to assemble the four Middle Edge Sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:

8 Units A from Month 1
8 Units B from Month 2
8 Units D from Month 2
16 Units H from Month 5
16 Units L from Month 8
8 Units M from Month 9

Step 10 – Lay out the units as shown to create the Middle Edge Section.

Step 11 – Stitch the units together into rows. Press the seams open between the units.

Step 12 – Stitch the rows together into the Middle Edge Section. Press the seams open between rows.

Step 13 – Repeat steps 10-12 to make a total of 4 Middle Edge Sections.

Steps 10 – 12
Naz carefully supervised Journey’s Month 9

Make 4 Middle Edge Sections. Congratulations on work well done!

Journeys Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Block of the Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2. I know you all worked so hard last month on your Liberty Stars. You learned how to make Uneven Chains in month 1, so this month should be a breeze. We will again be using the Four Patch Square Up tool.

This month we will be using prints 6, 10 & 11

Piecing Instructions

Step 1 – Stitch your strips together into Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam.

Step 2 – Press your strip sets. In all strip sets, press toward Print 6. A helpful pressing tip: whatever you are pressing toward goes on top.

Strip Set A
Strip Set A make 1 – 2 1/4″ sub-cuts, 16 sub-cuts required.
Strip Set B
Strip Set B make 1 – 2 1/4″ sub-cuts, 16 sub-cuts required.
Strip Set C (stitch strips together)
Strip Set C make 2 – 3 1/2″ sub-cuts, 16 sub-cuts required.

Step 3 – Sub-cut the strip sets using the information in the diagrams above. Make sure to use the correct sub-cut size for the strip set you are working with and cut the correct number of pieces needed.

Step 4 – Lay out the pieces from Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C as shown. Stitch an A piece to one side of the C piece and Stitch a B piece to the other side. Make sure you sew the correct piece on each side so that it looks like the diagram.

Step 4 – Lay out and stitch

Step 5 – Press the unit so that the seams spin. To spin the seam, lay the last sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the two or three threads in the center on both sides that run north to south, and press so all the seams go in the same direction.

Step 6 – Trim the unit to size. Position the unit as shown on your cutting mat and locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square up® tool. The finished sizes are located above the words Finished Size Four Patches – Center. Position the circle over the seam intersection between the small and large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines radiating from the circle align with your seams.

Trim the first two sides of the unit.

Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees. Align the 3” finished size circle over the other intersection of the small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines align with your seams and that the 6½” cut size clean up lines align with the outside trimmed edges. Trim the remaining two sides. Once all 16 units are made, label them Unit L.

Congratulations, you’ve completed month 8 and I’ll bet you are even more comfortable using the Four Patch Square Up tool.

Remember, you can go back and search for any of the Journey’s posts, they are never deleted and I’m always available for questions.

Flowers of the Sun – OBW #84 & the Diamond Four Patch Wedge

Continuing my journey to create interesting embellishments for my hexagon and octagon One Block Wonders (OBW’s). I created fabulous stars using Studio 180 Design’s Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet and the Wedge Star Tool.

Flowers of the Sun by South Sea Imports

Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.

Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite

I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.

I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.

I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.

Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.

Make the first cut.

From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.

You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.

Pair a section “A” with a section “B”
Mark seam intersection

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.

Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.

Stitch
Press your seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.

Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.

Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.

Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.

Diamond Four Patch Wedge
18″ Diamond Star Wedge

Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.

Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.

As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.

Tucker Trimmer I

Tucker Trimmer III

Flowers of the Sun measures 65″ X 77″.

Misty Jungle OBW #83 with Capped 60 Cubes

I pulled this 2004 Alexander Henry fabric called Misty Jungle from my stash to play with adding Capped 60 cubes to my OBW.

Alexander Henry Misty Jungle

Although the fabric has a 24″ repeat the design elements were about 3 to 4 inches, so I decided to cut my strips 3 1/4″ to make 5″ finished hexagons. Using my Star 60 tool, I cut my equilateral triangles.

Once I designed my hexies to get an almost final design, It’s time to decide about cubes. I am using Deb Tucker’s Capped 60 Techniques Sheet. The Capped 60 Technique Sheet offers cutting instruction for 17 sizes in whole & half inch increments.

Capped 60 Unit

Above is a Capped 60 Unit. The cutting instructions are based on finished units. I cut my triangles for a 5″ finished hexagon, which would mean my individual triangles would measure 3″ unfinished and 2 1/2″ finished.

We begin by choosing 3 fabrics, light, medium and dark values. Where you place the light fabric gives the illusion of light shinning on it. The strips for both the trapezoids and triangles are the same width.

Cutting Trapezoids. I am making 2 1/2″ finished units so I cut 2″ strips and placed the 3 1/2″ Bottom Horizontal Line on the bottom of my strip to cut my trapezoids. Then rotate the Star 60 tool and place the 3 1/2″ line on the top of the strip and continue cutting trapezoids.

Cutting Triangles. Align the mark near the tip of the tool with the top of the strip and the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the width of the strip and cut. Rotate the Star 60 tool and continue cutting your triangles.

For each cubed hexagon you will need 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark trapezoids, and 2 light, 2 medium and 2 dark triangles.

To make this cube begin by laying out your trapezoids and triangles shown above.

Align one edge of the triangle with the top of the trapezoid, matching the flat edge of the triangle to the top of the trapezoid as shown above.

Once you have laid out your trapezoids and triangles and know what triangles are to be stitched to what trapezoids you can chain stitch and make the process go fast.

Stitch and press seams open. Your unit consists of the Point, Left Side, Right Side and Base.

Trimming the Base. Position the unit so that the base is on the right if right handed or left if left handed. Align the Diamond Point Guideline that corresponds to the finished size of the unit on the seam between the triangle and trapezoid as shown. Trim the base along the side of the ruler.

Trimming the Right and/or Left Side. Locate the Triangle Point Trim Line in the chart for your size. Position the Horizontal Guideline that corresponds to the Triangle Point Trim Line on the seam between the trapezoid and triangle. Trim both sides.

Layout your trimmed units and stitch them into pairs of three as you do your equilateral triangles for the hexagons. Press seams open.

I chose to make Capped 60 Cubes in three color ways. I auditioned them in several places before deciding on the best placement.

Misty Jungle, OBW 83, measures 61″ x 62″

When I cut my strips for the hexagons I had 2 1/2″ left, not enough for the hexies. I decided to cut out smaller triangles to add to a border.

To give the illusion that the hexies are floating I added Half Hexies cut from the border fabric. The instructions for cutting Half Hexagons are located on page 10 of your Star 60 Instructions.

Click here to download Star 60 Instructions:

Rainbow Kitty OBW #82 & the Star 60 Tool

The official name for this quilt is Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty. This quilt was made with love for my Granddaughter Sam. It was supposed to be finished for Christmas but it is in time for my special Valentine.

Panel by Chong-A-Hwang for Timeless Treasures

Why did I choose 5.5″ Finished Hexagons?

This panel measured 23 inches wide. I chose 5.5″ (Cut my strips 3.5″) finished hexies because 4 X 5.5 = 22″. Now I only have trim 1/2″ from both sides and my hexies will fit along the bottom and the top of the panel.

Checkerboard 60

I wanted to add a large star to my design. Using my Star 60 Tool and Checkerboard 60 Technique Sheet I was able to make a great star.

I began by deciding on what size to make my star. I wanted it twice as big as my 5.5″ finished hexies, hmmm, that means an 11″ finished star. The Checkerboard Technique sheet makes beautiful stars in 17 sizes from 2″ up to 18″ in 1″ increments. I needed to make 5.5″ Finished units. I followed technique sheet instructions for a 6″ Finished Units and will trim them so they would finish at 5.5″ units.

Step 1 – Make two strip sets.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other right sides down. Using the Star 60 tool and a regular ruler establish the 60 degree angle.

From the first cut, cut additional angled sections the same width as the as the cut size of the diamond strips.

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure the inner and outer diamonds are oriented correctly. The pink diamonds will be the inner part of my star. The outer diamonds are yellow.

Mark 1/4″ seam allowance using the Magic Wand.

On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams on the wrong side.

Pin section A & B

Stitch your section “A” with Section “B” units.

Press the seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer diamond using the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the Outer Diamond Trim Guidelines for a 5″ finished unit.

First cut.

Continue cutting side triangles.

Step 5 – Add the side triangles.

Layout the right side triangles.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the diamond. (Whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

Layout the left side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

After it is stitched, but before you press, trim the unit as shown above to remove bulk.

Press toward the side triangle.

Step 6 – Trim the pieced Star 60 unit suing the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the 5″ finished unit guidelines.

Step 7 – Describes the trimming the final edge. I did not complete this trim. Remember, I need an 11″ finished star, which means I need 5.5″ finished units. I accomplished this by trimming the diamonds per the 5″ guidelines. I created an 11″ finished star by NOT trimming the outer edges of the star.

Layout your diamond units.

Stitch your diamond units together creating two halves.

Making Star 60’s – To make 5.5″ finished Stars, I am following the cutting instructions for 3″ Finished Units. Remember, the chart refers to UNITS not to Finished Stars! To use the chart, first determine the desired finished size of your unit, then follow the row across for the strip size for the shape you want to cut.

Cutting the Diamonds – I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units. Trim one short edge at a 60 degree angle as shown above. Locate the Diamond Sub-Cut Guideline in the chart which for 3″ finished units is 4″. Align those guidelines with the raw edges of the strip and the angled cut just made as shown in the diagram. Cut along the leading edge of the tool to create oversized diamond shapes.

Cut your side triangles. For 3″ finished units the side triangle strips are 2 1/2″.

Layout the right side triangle.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the Diamond. Layout the remaining side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

Trim the bulk as shown above.

Press toward the side triangle.

I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units, BUT I’m making 5.5″ finished stars, so I’m trimming the Diamond Point using the 2 1/2″ guidelines. I do not trim the outer edges of the unit to obtain a 5.5″ finished star.

Star 60 Units

Stitch units into two halves.

Designing With the Hexagons

The final layout

After I numbered my rows, I stitched the four rows above the checkerboard star into two rows, and the same with the four rows under the checkerboard star as shown in photo 1. Photo 2 shows stitching the top and bottom row to the checkerboard star halves. Photo 3 shows the two rows joined together.

Continue to stitch rows into 4 sections, Left, Right, Top & Bottom.

I placed the bottom section right sides together to verify how much I need to trim off the sides of the panel so it will be the same width as the top and bottom hexies. In this case I trimmed 1/2″ off both sides.

You can choose to attach either the top or bottom hexies first. I chose the bottom because I wanted to control where the hexies attached to the bottom of the panel. After the hexies are laid out and stitched together we loose 1/4″ between them. I felt I could safely loose a couple of inches off the top of the panel without affecting the design. But I did not want to loose inches off the panel bottom.

I pressed the bottom hexies under 1/4″ and top stitched them to the panel.

Match up the hexies/dog ears of the left side with hexies/dog ears on the bottom. Stitch leaving about 12″ from the top of the panel.

Place the panel and partially stitched left side on a table and place the top hexies on top of the panel matching up the dog ears to establish where the top hexies will be stitched to the panel.

Pin top to the panel being sure the dog ears match up to the left side hexies.

Top Stitch the top hexies to the panel. Finish stitching the left side to the panel and top hexies.

Match up the dog ears of the right side and stitch.

Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty, measures 75″ X 70″. I will quilt it as soon as the backing arrives.

It’s December! Time for Christmas Tree Quilts

I love Christmas & I love Christmas Tree Quilts! Over the years I have made several and decided to share some with you. Studio 180 Design tools gives you several ways to easily make Christmas Trees.

I Believe

I made this 7 years ago for my Granddaughter Samantha. I Believe uses the V Block tool. Below is the supply list:

Deck the Halls

I made Deck the Halls for Northcott Fabrics in 2019. It is made with Tucker Trimmer I & Wing Clipper I. Below is the supply list:

Split Rects Christmas Tree

The Split Rects Christmas Tree wall hanging is made with the Split Rects tool. The supply list is below:

Wing Clipper Wall Hanging

The Wing Clipper wall hanging is made with 4 Flying Geese using the Wing Clipper I. The supply list is below:

Kermits Christmas Tree

This Skinny Christmas Tree was made using all 10 sizes the Wing Clipper I makes. Supply List is below:

Happy Holidays everyone!

Journeys Month 2 – Triangle Units

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 2. My helper for Month 2 is Amy Lemke, a talented graphic artist for Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make Half Square Triangles (HSTs) and Combination Units with your Tucker Trimmer I with Prints 1, 2, 5, 10, & 11. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.

Prints 1, 2, 5, 10 & 11.

Tip: I use plain paper plates and write on them what it is I have cut out. For instance, if you are new to using a Tucker Trimmer, I would label 6 paper plates: one for each print. Using a pen or pencil label the first plate “Print 1, Combination Units (unit D)”, and so on.

Half Square Triangle Construction

Note: For more information and left handed cutting and trimming directions, refer to the instruction that came with your Tucker Trimmer.

Prints 5, 10, & 11.

Step 1 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal. Draw the lines on the wrong side of all the 7” squares from Print 11. I like to use my Quilter’s Magic Wand™ for this task.

Mark using a Magic Wand.

Step 2 – Layer the 7” Print 11 squares right sides together with the 7” squares from Prints 5 and 10. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press away from Print 11 or open.

Layer.

Stitch and cut apart.

Press.

Step 3 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Trimmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam and trim the first two sides.

First Trim

Step 4 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees and align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the outside edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Half Square Triangle units. Label the units made with Print 5 Unit C, and label the units with Print 10 Unit B.

Second Trim

Make 8 each from prints 10 & 11 and prints 5 & 11.

Combination Unit Construction

Prints 1, 2 & 11

Step 5 – Repeat steps 1 and 2 using the 7½” squares from Print 1 and Print 2 to make 4 Half Square Triangles. Press away from Print 2 or open. Do not trim!

Starter Squares

Step 6 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal line of the pieced Half Square Triangles.

Mark back of HSTs

Step 7 – Position the pieced squares right sides together with the 7½” Print 11 squares. Note that the edges are not intended to match. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press toward the large triangle.

Stitch, cut apart & press.

Step 8 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Timmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the long seam and the Common Diagonal with the short seam. Trim the first two sides.

First Trim

Step 9 – Rotate the unit 180o and align the Sizing and Common Diagonals with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the trimmed edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Combination units. Label them Unit D.

Second Trim

Congratulations, you have learned to make half square triangles and combination units using your Tucker Trimmer I.