Got some fat quarters? Deb Tucker has many free patterns for you and this one is called Twilight Paths. It uses 14 fat quarters and a background with the Tucker Trimmer I. Twilight paths uses 5″ finished Shaded Four Patch units (5.5″ unfinished). The Shaded Four Patch Technique Sheet shows you haw to make this unit in 21 sizes! This whole quilt is made with Shaded Four Patches!
This is Twilight Paths using Deb Tucker’s Twilight Chic fabric line from Island Batik!
Download your pattern and let’s go!
Group 1
Group 2
To get a great scrappy quilt, Deb suggests that you split your fat quarters into two groups. Group 1 along the 22″ side, cut two 3 1/4″ strips and one 6″ strip, sub-cutting into 3 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. Group 2 along the 22″ side, cut one 3 1/4″ strip and two 6″ strips, sub-cutting each into 3 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. Cut one more 3 1/3″ strip from leftover from Group 1.
From your assorted dark fat quarters you will need 22 – 3 1/4″ strips, and 64 – 6″ x 7″ rectangles. From your background you will need 22 – 4 1/4″ strips.
Step 1 – Position each 3 1/4″ strip right sides together with a 4 1/4″ wide background strip and stitch lengthwise. Press seams toward the wider strip.
Step 2 – Pair two of the pieced strips right sides together with the narrow strips on opposite sides, so that each narrow strip faces a wide background strip. Sub-cut the strip sets every 3 1/4″ units until you have 128 rectangles.
128 – 3 1/4″ units Pick up each unit the same way when stitching one side.
Step 3 – Keep the two rectangles paired; stitch each pair of cut pieces together along one long side. Note the seams are not supposed to nest.
Snip
Snip the seam allowance at the half way mark between the two squares all the way to the seam.
Press each half of the seam allowance away from the square as shown above.
Step 4– Mark stitching lines. Select a ruler with a 45 degree angle marked on it. Draw a 45 degree sewing line from top to bottom, through the corner of the square where the stitching lines meet. Draw a 2nd line through the corner of the other square.
Step 5 – Center each marked, pieced rectangles right sides together with a 6″ x 7″ rectangle.
Stitch on both lines.
Trim seams 1/4″ from the stitching lines.
Press all seams toward the large triangles.
Step 6 – Trim the 128 oversized units with your Tucker Trimmer I to 5 1.2″ x 5 1/2″. Align the 5 1/2″ Sizing Diagonal with the diagonal seam of the unit. Position the common diagonal so it passes through the center of the unit. Trim the two sides.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit and line up the 5 1/2″ cut size lines on the tool with the previously trimmed edges, align the sizing diagonal and the common diagonal as before and trim the other two edges.
Step 8 – Layout 80 units according to the diagram on page 5 to create the quilt center.
Stitch the units into rows and then stitch the rows together. Press all seams open.
Step 9 – Attach the Inner Border. Stitch the inner border strips to the quilt center.
Step 10 – Assemble the Outer Border. Stitch the remaining units together into 4 border strips containing 12 units each. Make sure you orient the units as shown in the pattern. Press all seams open. Finish as indicated.
My top is not yet quilted. I used Deb Tucker s Steam Engine fabric line by Island Batik in my quilt top. So I guess I will call mine Steam Engine on the Tracks!
I was scheduled to teach the Shaded Nine Patch Star to the Thread Bears Quilter’s Guild of Sherill, NY in May. But as it doesn’t look like I will be able to, so I am going to teach it here.
This star was designed by Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer. I love it as a fun way to learn the Shaded Nine Patch Unit. The Shaded Nine Patch is an amazing unit that has endless possibilities & can be made in 7 sizes. Maybe Sarah will make it a pattern someday. You will need the Tucker Trimmer I, Magic Wand and Shaded Nine Patch Technique Sheet. Down load the lesson & supply list here:
Choose 6 fabrics and a background. You may choose Width of Fabric Strips (WOF) OR Fat Quarters and cut more strips.
Background: 1 Yard
6 different – ¼ yard fabrics or 6 fat quarters
Border & Binding: 1 yard
Cutting Strips for the Shaded 9 Patch Block: We will be making 12 – 6″ finished Shaded Nine Patch Units.
Position 1: Cut 1 – 2 3/4″ WOF strip
Position 2: Cut 1 – 2 1/2″ WOF strip
Position 3: Cut 1 – 3 3/4″ WOF strip
Position 4: Cut 1 – 2 3/4″ WOF strip from 2 different fabrics
Position 5: Cut 1 – 3 1/2″ WOF strip
Rectangles (from background fabric): Cut 2 – 7″ WOF strips. Sub-cut into six 7″ x 8″ rectangles
Background Fabric: (Aside from the rectangles above) Cut 4 – 6 ½” squares for the star corners.
Note: It is a good idea to label paper plates for each Position to keep your strips organized.
Step 1 – Each block requires two strip sets. You will need to make twice as many of the First Strip Set as you will the Second Strip Set.
Piecing the First Strip Set – take one strip each of the fabrics for position 1, 2 and 3. Sew them together along the long edge, right sides together in the order shown. Press all seams toward position 3.
Piecing the Second Strip Set – take one strip for position 5 and two strips of fabric for position 4. Sew them together along one long edge, right sides together in the order shown. Press seam towards the position 4 strips.
Step 2 – For the First Strip Set only – sub-cut crosswise the width of the strip for Position 1. We are making a 6” finished unit, Position 1 strip is 2 ¾” wide, you will sub cut your sections 2 ¾” wide.
Sub-cut 12 – 2 ¾ wide Strip Set 1” units.
For the Second Strip Set only – sub-cut crosswise the width of the strip for Position 2. We are making a 6” finished unit, Position 2 strip is 2 ½ ” wide, you will sub cut your sections 2 ½ ” wide
Sub-cut 6 – 2 ½” wide Strip Set 2 units.
Tip: To keep organized label plates for Strip Set 1 & Strip Set 2
Step 3 – Stitch the strip set units together. Lay them out as shown. Seams will nest between positions 1 & 4. Note: Row 1 is Strip Set 1, Row 2 is Strip Set 2 and Row 3 is Strip Set 1, but reversed.
Before you press, you will need to snip the seam allowance in two places as shown. Press each half of the unit as shown. (See down loadable lesson and/or Shaded Nine Patch Technique Sheet for detailed description.)
Step 4 – Select a ruler with a long 45 degree angle marked on it. The edge of your ruler needs to be at least as long as the diagonal of the unit. Place you’re your sewn rectangle right side down, horizontally on your work surface and draw a 45 degree line from top to bottom, through the corners of the squares labeled 2 and 4 where the stitching lines meet.
Draw a second 45 degree line through the corner of the other position 2 and 4 squares.
Step 5 – Center each marked unit over a large rectangle, right sides together. They may not be exactly the same size.
Step 6 – Stitch on both of the marked sewing lines. Cut apart.
Press toward the large triangle. Remember: “Whatever your are pressing toward, goes on top!”
Step 7 – Position the 6 ½” sizing diagonal of your Tucker Trimmer on the unit so that it lines up with the diagonal seam line of the Shaded Nine Patch. Position the common diagonal so it passes through the center of position 1 square. Trim your first two sides.
Step 8 – Rotate the unit and line up the 6 ½” size lines on the Tucker Trimmer with the trimmed raw edges. Adjust as needed. Trim both sides.
Make five more sets for a total of 12 blocks.
Take your 12 blocks and four 6 ½” background corner squares & layout your star. Stitch into rows, press seam open. Join your rows, press seams open.
Please see the down loadable lesson plan to complete your Shaded Nine Patch Star.
It is late March 2020. Most of us are quarantined inside. At least those of us in New York are! I had planned to schedule a class at Stash away Quilt Shoppe in Rome NY, for a Quilt of Valor using the Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star ruler. I decided to just post the lesson here and share it with anyone who would like to make Patriotic Lemoynes.
I went to my EQ8 software and designed this quilt for Lynn. This is a great skill builder for those that took the Tucker University Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star class but haven’t made a project yet. This quilt measures 68″ X 82″ with 20 – 12″ finished Lemoyne star blocks. The supply list and instructions are available here for download.
Understanding the “Cutting Chart”. The chart in the tool instructions gives you valuable information for 10 Finished Size Blocks: Cut Size of Star Strips, Cut size of Background Strips, Minimum Strip Length for One Block & Approx. # of Diagonal Cuts from Full WOF strips. For 12” finished blocks, you need a minimum of 24” star & background strips to be able to make one block.
Block Construction: (Width of Fabric – WOF)
Background Fabric: Cut 20 – 4 3/4″ WOF strips
Red Star Points: Cut 10 – 3 1/4″ WOF strips
Blue Star Points: Cut 10 – 3 1/4″ WOF strips
Step 1 – Make 2 piles of 10 background strips right sides up – side by side. At the top, mark 10 “A” & 10 “B”.
Establish the starting point for placement of our star strips by making two additional marks down from the top of the strip, on the inside edges of each strip, the same width as our strip is wide. Our background strips are 4 ¾” wide. OR simply fold top right corner over to the left edge for “A” matching raw edges and top left corner over to the right edge for “B”.
Step 2 – Position a star strip right sides together with each of the background strips starting 4 ¾” down from the top.
Step 3 – Using your Best ¼” Seam, Stitch the “A” strip on the right side & the “B” strip on the left side. (Do not use a scant ¼” seam.)
Step 4 – Press: The “A” strip should be pressed toward the background strip. The “B” strip should be pressed toward the Star Strip. Remember “whatever you are press toward goes on top”!
Step 5 – Position: Move the strips to the cutting mat and layer the strip pairs right sides together, background strip to background strip & and star strip to star strip. The long seams should nest.
Step 6 – Cut: Make a 45 degree angled cut. Use your Lemoyne Star ruler to help insure you get a good 45 degree angle by lining up the ruler edge with the stitching line and bumping another ruler ap against the angled edge.
Step 7 – Cut the 1st Unit: Each Cut Should be the same measurement as the Star Strip Width (3 ¼” wide).
Step 8 – Second Cuts: Cut one set and trim side triangles. Using your 6” x 12” ruler, place a line on the top edge of the just cut unit and slide to the right until the ruler touches point from the star fabric. Trim up the right side of the ruler. See tool instructions for left hand cutting. In the tool instructions you are told cut all the units then trim the side triangles. I find the students are less confused if they cut the unit and immediately cut the side triangle.
Tip: Label two paper plates One “A” & one “B”. I also add pressing instructions from Step 11: “A” units are pressed toward the star point. “B” units are pressed toward the background fabric.
Righties – “A” strip is on top & “B” strip is on the bottom. Once cut, place “A” unit on plate marked “A” & “B” unit on plate marked “B”.
Lefties – “B” is on top & “A” is on the bottom. Place “A” unit on plate marked “A” & “B” unit on plate marked “B”.
NOTE: IF Left Handed, It will be beneficial to flip each of the pairs over from east to west so that they look like the pairs trimmed by right handed cutters.
Cut side triangles and place one on each plate. Continue cutting sets and side triangles.
Step 9 – Lay Out: Take your plate of “A” units to the sewing machine.
Step 10 – Position & Stitch: Position the side triangle right sides together with the pieced unit. Raw edges even and triangle centered over the pieced unit. Stitch, continue to chain stitch all the “A” units & then all the “B” units.
Step 11 – Press Carefully: Take the “A” units to the ironing board. “A” units are pressed toward the star points, therefore place your chain stitched units with the star points facing up. Trim threads, place back on “A” plate.
“B” units are pressed toward the background fabric, therefore place your chain stitched units with the background fabric facing up. Trim threads, place back on “B” plate.
STOP – BEFORE YOU TAKE ANOTHER STITCH!
Step 12 – Trim: Take all you units to the cutting mat. Place your units at a 2:00 position to be able to comfortable trim the two sides. Trim all your “A” & “B” units to an exact size using the 12” lines.
Step 13 – Examine/Position: You will now have pieced half square triangles that will fit together perfectly. Nest the seams and pin.
Step 14 – Stitch: Stitch the pieced triangle units together, first into pairs, then into half blocks and then into complete blocks. Stitch from the star center outward.
Step 15 – Press: Option #1 press all seams open. Option #2 press seam in the same direction as all the other seams in the unit. I press my seams open. Trim the Dog Ears at the star center.
Lay out four units.
Choose two units. Pin the nested seams and pin star point.
Press seams open.
Join halves pin the nested seams, match & pin the center. Stitch.
Step 16 – Trim to 12 ½” using your Tucker Trimmer III: If right handed, place the half circle in the upper right hand corner. Center the common diagonal line and the 12 ½”” size diagonal line on the seams of the block. Trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the tool, rotate the block, centering as before but also using the clean up lines on the edges just trimmed. Trim up the right side and across the top. See Tucker Trimmer tool instructors for complete left hand cutting.
Two WOF background strips & two WOF star strips will yield 2 – 12” finished lemoyne star blocks.
Twenty 12 ½” Lemoyne star blocks done!
Sashing: Cut 6 – 2 ½” WOF strips. Sub Cut into 16 – 12 ½” strips. I stitch four sashing strips between 5 blocks and measure the row length to determine the size of the vertical sashing strips.
Vertical Sashing: Cut 14 – 2 ½” WOF strips. You may need less if don’t mind piecing several together. I just stitched two 2 ½” WOF strips together and cut to fit. Once the vertical sashing is complete and rows are joined, measure the width through the center and cut the top and bottom sashing and stitch to the quilt top.
Cut 8 – 5 ½” WOF. Strips. Measure the length of the top to determine side border length. Once the side borders are stitched, measure the top width through the center to determine the final borders for the top and bottom.
Binding: You will need approximately 8 strips for the binding.
I was entertaining my self with Facebook when I saw a post by my friend and fellow Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor, Karen Overton The Quilt Rambler. Here is some of what she wrote: “The idea began with a talented quilter named Jessica of Jessica Quilter also known on Instagram as @Jessicaquilter. Seems the good folks at Just Wanna Quilt picked up on her inspiration and ran with it! More details can be found here on the JWQ website. Jessica had an idea to use a little bit of her favorite fabrics from her “inventory” and the rest they say is history”. Karen was chosen as a Featured Designer, you can read the rest of The Quilt Rambler’s blog Inventory Quilt Project here.
I was inspired to check my “Inventory”
I had this wonderful collection by Tula Pink called Spirit Animal. I have had this fabric in my “Inventor” for over two years.
I decided to make Hallucination by Deb Tucker. This is a great pattern to get yourself acquainted with the Wedge Tool. You will also need a Tucker Trimmer III. To accomplish a scrappy Hallucination I had to put on my Rose colored glasses. I needed light, medium and dark fabrics. Whenever I have trouble sorting fabrics by value I use red lenses to help.
I began cutting my large wedges for Block “A” which consisted of medium and dark wedges.
Once the wedges are cut position a dark wedge with a medium wedge aligning the raw edges, being sure to always put the dark wedge on top. This will assure you will alternate between dark and medium wedges in your block. Stitch into pairs using your best 1/4″ seam allowance.
Remove the “dog ears” and “sliver trim” the wedge pair by aligning the common diagonal line on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam and trim the dog ears, and true up the 90 degree angle. Note there may be just a few whiskers trimmed here.
Continue for all the “A” Blocks and the “B” Blocks.
You need to make a halfway registration mark on all 8 wedges of all “A” & “B” Blocks. You can do this by placing the center line of the wedge tool on the seam and mark on the right side of the fabric with a removable marker. My thin chalk pen broke so I folded the wedges in half matching the seams and then pressed with my iron to give a centerfold line.
Block A: Position the dark wedges north, south, east and west on your cutting mat. Align the 10 1/2″ sizing line and the common diagonal line with the registration marks and the intersection of the lines with the center of the block. Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate realign and trim again. The dark wedges are trimmed so we can add corners to the block. The medium wedges will be trimmed after the corners are added.
Center the oversized corner triangles over the just trimmed dark wedges and stitch. Press toward the corner triangles.
Using your Tucker Trimmer III, align the common diagonal and the 10 1/2″ sizing line with the registration marks and lines intersecting over the center of the block, trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the block and trim again.
Block B: Position the light wedges north, south, east and west on your cutting mat. Align the 10 1/2″ sizing line and the common diagonal line with the registration marks and the intersection of the lines with the center of the block. Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate realign and trim again. The light wedges are trimmed so we can add corners to the block. The medium wedges will be trimmed after the corners are added.
Center the oversized corner triangles over the just trimmed light wedges and stitch. Press toward the corner triangles.
Using your Tucker Trimmer III, align the common diagonal and the 10 1/2″ sizing line with the registration marks and lines intersecting over the center of the block, trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the block and trim again.
Block C:
Cutting the Diamonds for Block C: Lay your strip horizontally on the cutting mat. Using your wedge tool align the edge of the Wedge Star tool with raw edge of the strip close to end of the strip. Using another ruler with a 45 degree line, bump it up to slanted edge of the Wedge Star tool, this helps to establish the 45 degree angle. Cut, keep cutting till you have the desired number of diamonds.
Lay out your small wedges and diamond units as shown. Position a small wedge from the right hand side of the top of the diamond. Match the point of the diamond with the corner of the wedge and align the raw edges.
Stitch with the diamond on top.
Press toward the diamond. Remember “whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top”!
Trim off the dog ear. Position a remaining small wedge to the other side of the diamond point. Align the raw edges and center the shapes right sides together. Press toward the small wedge. Trim the each diamond wedge using the 10″ line in the Diamond Trim Down Section on the Wedge Star tool.
Lay out the Diamond Wedges and the dark Large Wedges for the C Block.
Consistently place a diamond Wedge on top of a dark Large Wedge right sides together.
Stitch the point end first. Press seams open. Trim the dark wedges as before and add the triangle corners. Trim the block with your Tucker Trimmer III.
In fact be sure you press all seams open during block construction. I find the Strips Stick very helpful!
Lay out your finished A, B & C blocks, stitch into rows. Add your inner and outer Borders.
I’m loving this scrappy version of Hallucination!
This project was Tucker approved with Aurifil Thread, Quilters Dream Batting, my Reliable Iron, and the Strip Stick. Not to mention my wonderful Studio 180 Design Tools.
The fabrics shown in this post were given to me by Island Batik.
December’s challenge is to explore the world of 3D by using optical illusions, textures, trapunto or whatever else will make your quilt pop into life! I chose to make Pyramid Power, a pattern by Running with Scissors & Studio 180 Design. I think the design looks like perfectly folded boxes that must contain wonderful chocolates inside.
It is a bright sunny day here in Central NY and a balmy 11 degrees outside!
This pattern uses Studio 180 Design Corner Pop II & Corner Pop III. These tools give you perfectly popped corners with little waste. The Corner Pop II pops corners with a 2 to 1 ratio while the Corner Pop II gives a 3 to 1 ratio.
I used Island Batik’s Tropical Escape line due out in January.
The key is to stay organized. I chose 7 light & 7 dark scraps Fat Eighths. I paired each dark fabric with a light fabric of the same color.
We will be making Type 1 and Type 2 Triangle Units.
I use paper plates to keep me organized. As I cut the triangles with the Corner Pop II, I placed Type 1 on the right plate and Type 2 on the left plate. Do the same thing for the Background Triangles.
Once you have constructed your Triangle Units it’s time to pop off the corner with the Corner Pop III.
Cut your replacement triangles with the Corner Pop III and get ready to stitch them to the triangle units.
Center the triangle unit over the replacement triangle and stitch.
Trim the unit using Corner Pop III.
I used my Magic Wand to mark the 1/4″ seam to help line up and carefully pin to stitch one Type 1 unit to a Type 2 Unit.
Pyramid Power Twin Size measures 51″ x 72″. Pieced with Aurifil thread and finished with Hobbs Cotton Batting.
It has been my great joy to be an Island Batik Ambassador for 2018 & 2019. I was so honored to included in a this group of widely talented & creative quilter’s. I will not be returning for 2020, I will miss you all so much. But I am excited to see what Ambassadors with be sharing next year!
The fabrics shown in this post were given to me by Island Batik.
Tropical Escape
Last January Island Batik gave me a secret bundle to hold onto till November, it was Tropical Escape shown above. I sat and looking at the bundle of gorgeous fabrics, waiting for them to talk to me. The goal is for me to introduce the Tropical Escape fabric line by making a quilt showcasing as many of the 20 fabrics as possible.
I decided to use Studio 180 Design’s BlockBuster pattern #29 Pointsettia. This block requires the Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star, Split Rects and Tucker Trimmer I tools. You can download the BlockBuster pattern below:
I loved that the Poinsettia block could be made in 7″, 14″ or 21″ finished blocks. I chose the 21″ blocks.
Time to break out the paper plates. I sorted my fabrics by color and value, pairing a light/medium value with a darker value. This would allow me to use 16 different fabrics to form the flowers. I would use the lighter value fabric for the Lemoyne star quarters and the darker value fabrics for the split rects units.
My tip for staying organized while making Lemoyne stars is to label two paper plates, one “A” & one “B”. Follow the Lemoyne star tool instructions. When you come to Step 7, make one 45 degree cut – then imediateley reposition your ruler to cut the side triangles as you go.
If you are right handed the “B” strip was on the bottom & the “A” strip was on top. Place the “A” unit on the plate marked “A” and the “B” unit on the plate marked “B”, place one triangle on each plate also. (If you are left handed the “A” strip would be on the bottom and the “B” strip would be on top). Continue cutting your units, placing each unit on their assigned plate. Construct the Lemoyne units as instructed. Throughout the process you will always know which units are “A” and which are “B”. This is important for knowing which way to press your seams. Another tip for pressing the lemoyne star units is to “remember, the Lemoyne star point should always be pointed to the left”. To make Lemoyne star quarters you will square them up using your Tucker Trimmer 1 before stitching them to the split rects units.
Layout your Lemoyne quarters with your mirror image split rects units and stitch together.
Press seams as shown above.
Continue making your Lemoyne star quarters/split rects units. They are all constructed the same way.
Stitch a background rectangle with each Lemoyne quarter/split rects unit as shown. Follow block assembly instruction in the BlockBuster #29 pattern.
At first I decided to make 6 – 21″ blocks measuring 60″ x 83″.
But I discovered I had enough units to make 9 blocks with left over Lemoyne quarters for the use in the outer border. Quilt measures 83″ x 83″.
It’s funny how this quilt came about. It stared with Island Batik’s fabric line: Tropical Escape; BlockBuster’s Pointsettia block (a Christmas flower); and it is named after a canyon in Arizona. I named this quilt Copper Canyon Blooms as I think they look like desert blooms! In the supply list below I’ve given you fabric requirements for both the 6 block top and the 9 block top.
I just finished my “Doves of Hope” quilt and wanted to share it with you.
Deb Tucker designed this quilt for Marie Bostwick’s book “Hope on the Inside”. Deb’s pattern Doves of Hope is a twist on a traditional block titled Dove in the Window. She actually nestled a small dove block inside a large dove block to create a quarter section for each 19½” .
I will be teaching Doves of Hope in January 2020 at Copper Canyon Quilting in Lake Havasu, AZ.
I absolutely love how it came out. I pulled out my Island Batik scraps for this project, it is mostly made with Enchanted Forest fabrics. You will need your Tucker Trimmer I to complete this beautiful quilt and can make it in Lap, twin or King sizes.
Your Tucker Trimmer Tool Instructions give you the information you need to complete your Half Square Triangles. Cut your squares and using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines. Match up your dark and light fabric squares aligning the raw edges. Stitch on the lines, cut apart and press to the dark fabric. Remember: whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top. Trim your Half Square Triangle units to 4 1/2″.
Non Mirror Combo Units: Past construction methods would result in mirror image units. Sometimes we need combination units that are the same as in Card Shark which requires two of each units below:
Determine your color placement. Follow the instructions in the Non Mirror Combo Units Technique Sheet.
Make the half square triangles first by using the Magic Wand and mark 4 diagonal lines from corner to corner. Follow the stitching instructions in the technique sheet. Cut apart.
Press toward the dark triangle.
Cut squares for large triangles once diagonally.
Pair small triangles with the large triangles, center and stitch. Press toward the large triangle.
Trim units to 4 1/2″.
Stacked Square:
Layout your Stacked Square unit pieces.
Start by making a four patch and swirl the center. Our Stacked Square is a 4″ finished unit. Check the chart on the Stacked Square Technique sheet to find the Cut size for the center square, which is 2 1/2″. Using my my Tucker Trimmer I trimmed the four patch to 2 1/2″.
Check your color placement and stitch two triangles. Press toward the triangle and add the two more triangles pressing toward the triangles as before.
The Large Square Squared Tool is broken up into two different parts. Part “A” & Part “B” to include guidelines for making 12 different sizes. The chart in the Stacked Squares Tech sheet tells us what size to cut our side triangles and how line up for trimming. The first trim uses Part “A” to trim before adding the second round of triangles.
After adding the second round of triangles, use Part “B” to trim the stack square to a cut size of 4 1/2″.
Lay out your units, stitch together in to rows.
Card Shark is now ready to add the quilt!
I use my Groovy Seam Rippers made by fellow quilter Nancy Townsend as my little helpers while quilting.
The Whistle Stop Quilt is made up of 12″ blocks and 6″ finished blocks.
This is “Roll the Dice”. It is made with Studio 180 Design Square Squared and Split Rects tools. Click below to download the cutting instructions.
Using your Split Rects tool, cut 4 side triangles for Type 1 units, per your tool instructions from your two fabrics making sure your fabrics are right side up. Stitch triangles together and press seams open.
Trim your Split Rects to 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″, rotate and trim again.
Square Squared
Cut your center square using Part “A” for a 2″ finished unit.
Trim to the cut size of 2 1/2″ using Part “B” of your Square Squared tool. Rotate and trim again.
Layout your block units.
Place the center square/squared unit right sides together with a Split Rects unit aligning the raw edges of the top and sides. Stitch a partial seam along the dark fabric of the Split rects stopping just past the center of the Square/Squared unit.
Now add a Split Rects unit across the top. Be sure the dark fabric of the Split Rects Units are against the center square/squared unit. Press toward the split rects unit.
Add a third split rects unit and press as before.
Add the fourth Split Rects units.
Fold over the split rects unit with the partial seam and align the raw edges. Stitch meeting up with the partial seam.
Below is the complete schedule for the Whistle Stop Tour:
The beautiful fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.
The Island Batik Ambassadors assignment for September is “Childs Play”, make a quilt inspired/designed for a child.
Included in Island Batik Ambassador’s Box 2, I was given a gorgeous fat quarter bundle from the Enchanted Forest line. These fabrics are so beautiful and the name “Enchanted Forest” reminds me of being a child at my grandparents house. My sister Mary and I would go through the backyard, past the little league field, playground and into the woods. For my sister and I, those woods were magical. We imagined we could find a fairy floating by around every tree & magical creatures of all sorts living in our Enchanted Forest along the Saquoit Creek. The many shades of green in the variety of trees and moss were amazing. In the Spring, we couldn’t wait to go hunting for violets, and would come home with beautiful bouquets for our Grandma Bessie.
I pin orphan blocks to the ceiling in my quilt studio. As I was contemplating what to make I spotted a favorite block. For me the creative process usually begins with EQ8, so off I went to see what I would come up with.
I love the flower affect that is created by using Shaded Four Patch & Split Rects units. I decided on a 10″ finished block using 4″ finished Shaded Four Patch units & 2″ X 4″ finished Split Rects Units.
I used all the fabulous fabrics in the fat quarter bundle and made each flower unique. Vivi’s Flowers was constructed with Aurifil Thread and completed with Hobbs Tuscany Silk Blend Batting. This quilt was made for my friend Cher Green’s beautiful Granddaughter Vivi. I named this quilt “Vivi’s Flowers”. It measures 46″ X 58″. If you would like a supply list for this quilt you may download it here:
The fabrics shown in this post were given to me by Island Batik. This quilt was pieced with my favorite thread by Aurifil and completed with Hobbs 100% cotton Batting
The August Challenge for the Island Batik Ambassadors is to create a quilt featuring Stars. I chose a design I created in EQ8. I love the way the Lemoyne quarters combines with shaded four patch units creates a shooting star effect.
Quilts and mausoleums……what? Who goes on a “Walk & Talk” tour of Forest Hills Cemetery (founded 1848) in my home town of Utica, NY and gets the idea to photograph quilts there? My mind works in mysterious ways. We have family in Forest Hills and visit there often so that is where I began.
There are so many beautiful mausoleums in Forest Hills. I decided to take photo’s of Shooting Stars in front of them. That may sound weird but I love all the history found in cemeteries. There were so many beautiful doors.
The morning sun was shining through the stained glass.
These beautiful brass doors are what gave me the idea to photograph Shooting Stars there.
I love the way sun rays were streaming or maybe someone was visiting!
These Celtic Crosses are awesome!
We even have a past Vice President.
I love walking through a cemetery and reading the tributes. If you would like a supply list for Shooting Stars download here.
If These Threads Could Talk 