Welcome to Stitchin Heaven‘s Journeys BOM Month 9. You all have worked so hard. This month you will learn to use your Corner Beam tool. Sue Tucker & Naz are my helpers for Month 9.
You will be working with Print 1, 4 and 11 this month.
Cutting the Center Beams
Step 1 – Stack the 7” center beam squares up to 4 layers deep. Align the Center Beam Trim #1 line on your Corner Beam® tool and the 6” finished unit line (bottom edge of tool) with the raw edges of your stack of squares. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 2 – Rotate and cut again. Lift and reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled Center Beam Trim #2 with the previously trimmed angled edge. Cut again. Do this for all your center beam squares.
Cutting the Side Triangles
Step 3 – Fold the side triangle strip right or wrong sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Side Triangles Trim #1 line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.
Step 4 – Rotatethe Corner Beam® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the bottom of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 8 pairs of side triangles from Print 11 and 4 pairs of side triangles from Print 1.
Step 5 – Lay out and organize your pieces into the correct positions as shown to ensure you sew the proper sides together.
Step 6 – Stitch the first side triangle to each center beam, making sure you sew the correct triangle edge to the center beam. Press the seams open.
Step 7 – Stitch the second side triangle to the other side of each center beam. Press each seam open
Step 8 – Position the trim down area of your Corner Beam® tool on your unit. Carefully line up the diagonal seam guidelines on the Corner Beam® tool with the diagonal seams of your unit. Trim.
Step 9 – Rotate your unit. Align the cleanup lines for the 6½” cut size with the cut edges, the V shaped guideline with the seam intersection, and the tick marks with the seams at the wide end of the beam. Trim. Repeat for all units. Label as indicated in the Unit Summary.
Assemble 4 Middle Edge Sections
It is time to assemble the four Middle Edge Sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:
Step 10 – Lay out the units as shown to create the Middle Edge Section.
Step 11 – Stitch the units together into rows. Press the seams open between the units.
Step 12 – Stitch the rows together into the Middle Edge Section. Press the seams open between rows.
Step 13 – Repeat steps 10-12 to make a total of 4 Middle Edge Sections.
Make 4 Middle Edge Sections. Congratulations on work well done!
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Block of the Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2. I know you all worked so hard last month on your Liberty Stars. You learned how to make Uneven Chains in month 1, so this month should be a breeze. We will again be using the Four Patch Square Up tool.
This month we will be using prints 6, 10 & 11
Step 1 – Stitch your strips together into Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam.
Step 2 – Press your strip sets. In all strip sets, press toward Print 6. A helpful pressing tip: whatever you are pressing toward goes on top.
Step 3 – Sub-cut the strip sets using the information in the diagrams above. Make sure to use the correct sub-cut size for the strip set you are working with and cut the correct number of pieces needed.
Step 4 – Lay out the pieces from Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C as shown. Stitch an A piece to one side of the C piece and Stitch a B piece to the other side. Make sure you sew the correct piece on each side so that it looks like the diagram.
Step 5 – Press the unit so that the seams spin. To spin the seam, lay the last sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the two or three threads in the center on both sides that run north to south, and press so all the seams go in the same direction.
Step 6 – Trim the unit to size. Position the unit as shown on your cutting mat and locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square up® tool. The finished sizes are located above the words Finished Size Four Patches – Center. Position the circle over the seam intersection between the small and large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines radiating from the circle align with your seams.
Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees. Align the 3” finished size circle over the other intersection of the small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines align with your seams and that the 6½” cut size clean up lines align with the outside trimmed edges. Trim the remaining two sides. Once all 16 units are made, label them Unit L.
Congratulations, you’ve completed month 8 and I’ll bet you are even more comfortable using the Four Patch Square Up tool.
Remember, you can go back and search for any of the Journey’s posts, they are never deleted and I’m always available for questions.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journey BOM – Month 7 Liberty Star. This month, you will be using the 12” markings on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool, but you will be working with them as quarters that will be trimmed to 6½” using your Tucker Trimmer 1 before you sew them into the quilt.
Note: Some of your strip sizes are in sixteenths of an inch. These are necessary in order to equally divide the diamond into three sections. To cut the sixteenth of an inch you will see that after the sixteenth measurement there is a 1¼”+ listed. This means that you should locate the 1¼” mark on your ruler then move up just a bit to get to a 1⁵/16” measurement. You want to be as close to the half way point between the ¼” mark and the ⅜” mark as possible.
You will be using the standard Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star strip piecing for the “B” sections and fussy cut piecing for the “A” sections.
Step 1 – Lay out the Print 1, Print 2, and Print 8 strips as shown in the diagram.
Stitch together Print 2, Print 8 & Print 1, making four strip sets.
Step 2 – Stitch the strips into 4 strip sets, two will be used to create your “A” sections and two will be used to create your “B” sections.
Step 3 – Press all the seams toward Print 2, the widest strip.
Tip: To keep strip sets straight while pressing – it helps to draw a line on your ironing board with a sharpie and ruler. If the strip set wants to curve just keep re-adjusting it along the straight line.
Tip: After stitching your strips together measure the strip set to be sure it measures 3 1/4″ wide.
“B” Section Construction
Step 4 – Sew a strip set from step 3 on page 19 to a background strip to make a “B” section strip. Stagger your pieced strip 4¾” down the background strip. Be sure to sew the Print 1 to the Print 11 background strip. Press the seam toward your colored strip set. Make two.
Step 5 – Cut the “B” sections by placing the strip set right side up on the cutting mat. Make your first diagonal cut to clean up the end and set your angle. Then sub-cut the strip set into 3¼” sections. You will need a total of 16 sub-cuts.
Note: When cutting the Section B segments, place your 45 degree line on a seam to help establish the correct angle. Section B sections are cut 3 1/4″ wide. Cut almost to the end of the ruler and move the ruler up re-aligning the ruler on the 3 1/4″ line.
Step 6 – Cut Again. Make a vertical “second cut” to each sub-cut section. Make sure to leave a small gap between the tip of the diamond and the start of your vertical cut. One quarter of an inch will suffice.
Step 7 – Lay out, stitch, and press your pieced “B” sections toward the small side triangles you just stitched.
Remember, “whatever you are pressing toward goes on top”, so lay your pieced units on the ironing board with the small triangles on top and press.
“A” Section Construction
Step 8 – Cut the 4¾” x 4¾” Print 11 squares in half diagonally. Make the diagonal cut ¼” from the true diagonal to create small and large half square triangles.
Tip: You can use your regular ruler or your Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star tool to make the diagonal cuts as shown below.
Step 9 – Cut the remaining two colored strip sets into individual diamonds. Place a strip right side up on the cutting mat as shown, align the 3¼” window template on the back end of the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool over the strip set and cut up the side. Rotate the first diamond and again align the 3¼” lines with the edges of the diamond and trim off the excess fabric. Continue repositioning the tool and cutting using the 3¼” window template until you have 16 diamonds.
Step 10 – Lay out, stitch, and press. Lay out the fussy cut diamonds, the large and small half square triangles right sides up as shown. Be sure Print 1 (Dark Blue) is positioned by the small triangle.
Stitch the large triangles in place first and press the seam toward the background fabric.
Stitch the small triangles next and press these seams toward the diamond section. Make 16 “A” star points.
Step 11 – Trim all “A” and “B” triangle sections using the 12” line on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool. See diagram. Pay Attention here! It’s easy to forget this step.
Step 12 – Assemble quarters. Arrange the sewn and trimmed “A” and “B” sections into quarter blocks. Stitch the sections together and press the seams open to best distribute bulk. You should have 16 quarters total.
Step 13 – Trim the quarters to 6½” x 6½”. Clean up the dog ears and true up the first corner as shown. You should only be trimming off the dog ears and an additional thread or two in this trim. Then rotate the unit to trim the opposite corner. Align the common diagonal with the seam and the 6½” clean up lines with the trimmed edges to trim the remaining two sides. Repeat for all 16 quarters.
Step 14 – Assemble the quarters into the center block. Lay out the quarters as shown and sew them together into rows. Press the seams open.
Step 15 – Stitch the rows together and press the seams open. Label this Section K.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 6 – Corner Section. My helper for Month 6 is Sue Tucker, of Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make the Square/Squared unit using the Square/Squared tool. You will be using Prints 1, 2 & 5. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.
Step 1 – Lay your Print 1 strip on the mat and clean up the short edge. Locate the Center Square window template for a 6” finished unit. Place the solid lines of the window template on the raw edges of the strip end. Cut up the side and across the top to trim each square to a precision size. Cut 4 center squares.
Step 2 – Stitch two Print 2 side triangles to opposite sides of the center square. Stitch with the center square on top. Press the seams toward the side triangles.
Step 3 – Stitch one Print 2 side triangle to one remaining side of the center square and a Print 5 triangle to the other side. Press the seams toward the side triangles.
Step 4 – Trim to 6½” with your Square Squared® tool. Align the X’s labeled 6 with the seam intersections and the dashed lines with the seams. Trim. Rotate the unit 180o and align the seam intersections with the X’s labeled 6. Also align the cut edges with the 6½” clean up lines. Trim again. Repeat steps 1-4 to make a total of 4 Diamond Square units. Label the finished Units J.
Below is a correction. The original photo for the second trim showed the Left Hand Trim for Trim 2. I do not have the original fabric so I remade the Square/Squared unit from stash fabric.
Assemble Four Corner Sections
It is time to assemble the four corner sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:
8 Unit A’s from Month 1. 8 Unit C’s from Month 2. 24 Unit E’s and 24 Unit F’s from Month 3. 4 – G Blocks from Month 4. 4 Unit H’s from Month 5. 4 Unit J’s from Month 6.
Step 5 – Lay out the gathered units as shown to create one corner section.
Step 6 – Stitch the Unit F Flying Geese together to create the rows of geese. Press the seam away from the point of the goose. Attach Unit J to the end of the Unit E Geese as shown in the diagram.
Step 7 – Sew together Unit C, Unit A, and unit H as shown to create two sections and press as indicated.
Step 8 – Sew Block G, together with the two sections you just created as shown and press as indicated.
Step 9 – Sew the Flying Geese rows to the block and press as shown.
Step 10 – Repeat steps 5-9 to make a total of 4 Corner Sections.
Congratulations! You have learned to use the Square/Squared tool, not mention you are half way through your Journeys Quilt.
Step 1 – Organize Strips. Place Print 9 and Print 7 into two separate piles. Use Print 7 to make the A Strip Set and Print 9 to make the B Strip Set.
Step 2 – Make Strip Sets A and Strip Sets B in the same manner as described in the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star basic instructions. Position each diamond strip 4¾” down from the top of the background strip. Sew the strips lengthwise and press as indicated in the diagram below. Pay close attention to proper strip alignment and pressing to ensure success.
Step 3 – First Cuts. Layer Strip Set A and Strip Set B right sides together as illustrated. Trim the ends of the strips at a 45° angle, then continue making 45° angle cuts every 3¼” across the length of the strips. You will get 8 cuts from a paired strip set. Cut the remaining strip sets in this manner until you have 20 pairs.
Step 4 – Make Second Cuts going vertically south to north, as shown. Position the ruler edge at the tip of the star strip and trim straight up. These triangles will be added to the pieced unit.
Jackie’s Tip for staying organized is to label two paper plates A & B. For Right handers, Strip “A” is on top & Strip “B” is on the bottom. Cut one unit at a time, place the “A” unit on plate marked “A” & the “B” unit on plate marked “B”. You will always know which units are A & B for pressing.
Step 5 – Arrange, position and stitch the cut pieces together into pieced triangle units. Press as shown in the diagram to yield future nesting seams.
Tip: Remember “whatever you are pressing toward – goes on top”!
Step 6 – Trim down all pieced triangle units using the 12” line on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool as shown in the diagram.
Step 7 – Assemble quarters. Arrange the sewn and trimmed A and B sections into quarter blocks. Stitch the sections together and press the seams open to best distribute bulk. You should have 20 quarter blocks total.
Step 8 – Trim the quarters to 6½” x 6½” with your Tucker Trimmer® I tool. Clean up the dog ears and true up the first corner as shown (this should just be a few threads at most), then rotate the unit 180o to trim the opposite corner. Align the Common Diagonal with the seam and the 6½” clean up lines with the trimmed edges to trim the remaining two sides. Repeat for all 20 quarters. Label the finished quarters Unit H.
Recap: Make 20 Unit H – Homeward Bound Units.
Congratulations, you have learned to use your Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star tool!
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM Month 4 – Winged Nine Patch. My helper for Month 4 is Diane Marvin, Certified Instructor for Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make Four Patches with Frames using prints 5, 6, 7 & 9, Center Square with print 8 and Chevrons using prints 5, 6 & 11. Required tools are the Four Patch Square Up and Corner Pop.
Carefully follow your cutting instructions for each print using your best cutting and measuring skills.
Jackie’s Note: To keep organized when cutting the same print for multiple units I labeled 3 plates for Print 5: one for “Four Patches Strip sets A & B. One for Four Patch Frames Strip Set C. One for Replacement Triangles.
Step 1 – Use the diagram on page 9 to make your strip sets. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam. Press the seam toward Print 5 in all strip sets.
Step 2 – Layer Strip Set A on top of Strip Set B, right sides together, making sure that the Print 5 fabrics are positioned as shown in the diagram. Nest the seams well. Sub-cut along the strip at 2¼” increments until you have 16 sub-cut pieces.
Step 3 – Sub-cut Strip Set C. Do not layer it with anything, just make cuts every 2” until you have 16 pieces.
Step 4 – Stitch down the long side of the layered A/B pairs. Consistently feed Print 5 under the machine first. This will make for a nicer alignment in the center.
Step 5 – Press the unit so that the seams spin. To spin the seam, lay the sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the stitches in the seams on both sides that run north to south. Press so that all seams go in the same direction.
Step 6 – Trim. Locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square Up® tool and position the circle over the sewn seam intersection in the center of your four patch unit, and the dashed lines with your seams. Trim the first two sides.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees . Realign the 3” Finished Size circle with the center and the dashed lines with your seams. Also make sure that the outside trimmed edge of the unit is aligned with the 3½” cleanup lines. Trim the final two sides. Repeat steps 6 and 7 for the remaining units.
Step 8 – Stitch a 2”x 3½” Print 5 rectangle to the side of each four patch as shown. Press toward the Print 5 rectangle.
Step 9 – Stitch a Strip Set C piece onto the pieced unit as shown. Press toward the C piece.
Step 10 – Layer two 2”x 5” Print 11 rectangles wrong sides together. Carefully align the edges. On your Corner Pop® tool, find the 1½” Cut Away Corners line. Position the 1½” Cut Away lines of the tool over the corner of the rectangles as shown. Trim. Repeat for the remaining rectangles.
Step 11 – Center the long edge of one 2¾” Print 6 replacement triangle on the trimmed corner of each rectangle.
Step 11 Cont.: Stitch with the rectangle on top using an accurate ¼” seam. Separate the rectangles into two piles as shown in the diagram. Press the seams of the pile on the left toward the triangle and the seams of the right pile toward the rectangle.
Step 12 – Position the 1½” Corner Trim Down line of the tool over the sewn seam. Align the diagonal guideline with the seam and the edges of the unit with the edge and lines on the tool. Trim the corner. Repeat for all the rectangles.
Step 13 – Separate the rectangles into two piles as shown. Turn the right pile (with the replacement triangle slanting from upper right to lower left) wrong side up.
Step 14 – Cut. Use the Corner Pop® tool and the 1½” Cut Away Corners line and cut away the corner opposite Print 6. Make sure that you have the piece positioned how it is in the diagram so that you are cutting off the correct corner to make the chevron. You will cut with 16 units right side up and 16 units right side down. Cut the corner off once you have confirmed that you are cutting in the correct spot.
Step 15 – Repeat steps 11 &12 for the cut away corner using the Print 5 replacement triangles.
Step 16 – Lay out the pieced rectangles as shown. Position two of them right sides together leaving them in the same orientation and stitch down the long side. Press the seam open.
Step 17 – Lay out the framed four patches, chevrons, and center square so that it looks like the diagram.
Step 18 – Stitch the units together into rows and then stitch the rows together to create the block. Press as shown in the diagram. You will have 4 blocks when you are done. Label them Block G.
Congratulations, not only did you expand your knowledge of the Four Patch Square Up tool by making Four Patches with Frames, you also learned to use the Corner Pop tool by making Chevron units!
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM Month 3. This month you will be learning to make flying geese the Deb Tucker way, using your Wing Clipper I. My helper this month is Deb Tucker herself! As always use your best cutting, stitching and pressing skills. We will be using prints 1, 2 & 5. Carefully cut your starter squares and let’s go!
Piecing Instructions Flying Geese Construction
Step 1 – Mark Squares. Begin with one large Print 1 square and two Print 2 and two Print 5 small squares. On the wrong side of each small square, mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal. I like to use my Quilter’s Magic Wand™ for this task.
Step 2 – Position the two Print 2 small squares in opposite diagonal corners of the large square, right sides together. Nudge the small squares in toward the center a few threads from the edge of the large square and align the drawn lines.
Step 3 – Stitch on the two marked lines, then cut between the stitching lines along the center diagonal of the squares. Press your seams toward the small triangles.
Step 4 – Position two Print 5 small squares, one in each corner of your heart shaped units. Nudge these squares a few threads in from the edge of the large triangle.
Step 5 – Stitch along the two marked lines.
Step 6 – Cut between the stitched lines along the center diagonal of the small squares and press toward the small triangle.
Step 7 – Position your Wing Clipper® I tool over your unit, aligning the correct diagonal guidelines of the ruler with the seams of your unit and trim two sides. Rotate the unit 180° and align the 3½”x 6½” horizontal and vertical guide lines with the edges of the unit. Align the “X” on the Wing Clipper® I with the seam intersection of your unit and trim again. Repeat for the remaining units. You will end up with 24 geese that have print 2 on the left, label these as Unit E, and 24 geese that have print 2 on the right, label these as Unit F.
Congratulations! You have now learned to make flying geese using the Wing Clipper I.
Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 2. My helper for Month 2 is Amy Lemke, a talented graphic artist for Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make Half Square Triangles (HSTs) and Combination Units with your Tucker Trimmer I with Prints 1, 2, 5, 10, & 11. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.
Tip: I use plain paper plates and write on them what it is I have cut out. For instance, if you are new to using a Tucker Trimmer, I would label 6 paper plates: one for each print. Using a pen or pencil label the first plate “Print 1, Combination Units (unit D)”, and so on.
Half Square Triangle Construction
Note: For more information and left handed cutting and trimming directions, refer to the instruction that came with your Tucker Trimmer.
Step 1 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal. Draw the lines on the wrong side of all the 7” squares from Print 11. I like to use my Quilter’s Magic Wand™ for this task.
Step 2 – Layer the 7” Print 11 squares right sides together with the 7” squares from Prints 5 and 10. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press away from Print 11 or open.
Step 3 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Trimmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam and trim the first two sides.
Step 4 –Rotate the unit 180 degrees and align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the outside edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Half Square Triangle units. Label the units made with Print 5 Unit C, and label the units with Print 10 Unit B.
Make 8 each from prints 10 & 11 and prints 5 & 11.
Combination Unit Construction
Step 5 – Repeat steps 1 and 2 using the 7½” squares from Print 1 and Print 2 to make 4 Half Square Triangles. Press away from Print 2 or open. Do not trim!
Step 6 – Mark two stitching lines ¼” on either side of the center diagonal line of the pieced Half Square Triangles.
Step 7 – Position the pieced squares right sides together with the 7½” Print 11 squares. Note that the edges are not intended to match. Stitch on the lines, then cut down the middle. Press toward the large triangle.
Step 8 – Trim the units to 6½” using the Tucker Timmer® I. Align the 6½” Sizing Diagonal with the long seam and the Common Diagonal with the short seam. Trim the first two sides.
Step 9 – Rotate the unit 180o and align the Sizing and Common Diagonals with the seam as well as the 6½” cleanup lines with the trimmed edge. Trim the remaining two sides to create your precise Combination units. Label them Unit D.
Congratulations, you have learned to make half square triangles and combination units using your Tucker Trimmer I.
Hi everyone and welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s “Journeys” Block of the Month (BOM). I will be here to guide you through each month’s process, but not without some help from my friends. I was asked to participate in this BOM back in May. I had already tested the pattern design by Deb Tucker. In June I was diagnosed with breast cancer. I am so blessed to have friends that are helping me. They are each taking a month and creating the units and taking photo’s as they go. They are sending the photo’s to me so I can give you guidance here at “If These Threads Could Talk”.
Label, label, label! We cannot say it enough; you will want to be sure you label your completed units each month so that everything is easily identified.
Be sure to save the fabric left over from each month so that you have it in case you make a mistake.
In your pattern instructions, on the back of “General In formation”, you will find two fabric keys. One will identify the print number above a grayscale swatch. This swatch is what you will see throughout the pattern to identify the fabric when it is being used.
By now you have received your first month of Journeys from Stitchin Heaven. Uneven Chains is a great unit that is easily made using Studio 180 Design’s Four Patch Square Up tool. This month my special helper was Diane Marvin, a good friend and fellow Studio 180 Design Certified Instructor.
For these Uneven Chains units you will be using Print 3 and Print 11. You will be cutting strip sets from each fabric. Following the cutting instructions and organize your strips into sets “A” and “B”.
Step 1 – Stitch your strips together into Strip Sets A and Strip Sets B. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam.
Above is Strip Set A and Strip Set B.
Step 2 – Press your strip sets. In all strip sets, press the seams toward Print 3. A helpful pressing tip: whatever you are pressing toward goes on top.
Step 3 – Sub-cut the strip sets. Make sure to use the correct sub-cut size for the strip set you are working with. Strip Set A is sub-cut at 2¼” increments and Strip Set B is sub-cut at 3½” increments.
Step 4 – Lay out the pieces from Strip Set A and Strip Set B as shown in the diagram. Stitch an A sub-cut to each side of a B sub-cut.
Now add the second Strip Set A to the Strip Set B unit.
Remove 2 or 3 threads.
Step 5 – Press the units so that the seams spin. To spin the seams, lay the last sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the two or three threads in the center on both sides that run north to south, and press so all the seams go in the same direction.
Step 6 – Trim the units to size. Position the unit as shown on your cutting mat and locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square Up® tool. The finished sizes are located above the words Finished Size Four Patches – Center. Position the circle over the seam intersection between a small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines radiating from the circle align with your seams. Trim the first two sides of the unit.
Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 . Align the 3” finished size circle over the intersection of the remaining small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines align with your seams. Also align the 6½” clean up lines on the previously trimmed edges. Trim the remaining two sides. Once all the units are made, label them Unit A.
Once you have completed and trimmed 16 Uneven Chain units, label a paper plate “Unit A” Uneven Chains and set aside. Congratulations, month is done and you have learned to use the Four Patch Square Up tool.
And now, a special surprise for those of you who have read all the way through….
This message from Deb Tucker and Studio 180 Design:
I hope you’re all excited about your journey with Journeys! I’ve had such a thrill designing this pattern for you and working with Marie Bostwick to coordinate the quilt and the novella, and with Jason Yenter on the fabric. And many thanks to Deb Luttrell for coming up with the great idea for all of us to work together!
We are thrilled that Stitchin Heaven chose Jackie O’Brien to help you with your journey. Jackie was part of our first class of Certified Instructors 7 years ago, so we’ve worked together for a while. We wanted to do something extra to thank her for her participation in this and also to thank her for all of her contributions to Studio 180 through the years.
And we wanted to do something for you for your enthusiastic support for our first block of the month.
Here’s what we’re going to do. As many of you know, Studio 180 is all about education and skill development, so we’re going to give each of you the chance to get additional practice with your tools. Each month we will offer special pricing on two downloadable patterns that go with that month’s tool or other tools you have used in the BOM. We will post a link and a code each month in the Journeys FB group that gives you exclusive $9.00 pricing per pattern (over 20% discount). Jackie will receive 100% of the proceeds from your purchases as our thanks for a job well done. This is also a way for you to say thank you to Jackie for her help. We hope you find something in our offerings each month that excites you to use your tool on another project.