Category Archives: Tucker Trimmer 1

Bear Paws – Vintage Reimagined

The fabrics in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Island Batik Ambassador assignment for March is “Vintage Reimagined”. Hmmmm, I had several ideas, some just didn’t work out. I started to look through my quilt book library. I picked up Harriet Hargraves’ Heirloom Machine Quilting book. I was intrigued by a small quilt, 35″ x 35″ called Bountiful Vineyard by Joanie Poole. Turns out Joanie Poole teaches heirloom quilting. This is ironic (more on this later).

I chose to use the Snow Berry collection, simple gorgeous. I went to my EQ8 and started drawing.

Once I created the block I could also figure out the quilt layout. I love this block!

First I made the Bear Paw unit. I used Deb Tucker’s “Eight at a Time” Technique Sheet to make fast work of 80 Half Square Triangles.

Then add the side rectangles.

Pop off the corner of the rectangles using the Studio 180 Design Corner Pop tool.

Add replacement triangles according to the tool instructions and trim. Easy peasy, the Corner pop tool trims the corner & leaves the seam allowance so adding the replacement triangle is accurate with plenty to perfectly trim.

Stitch the corner popped rectangles to the bear paw unit. Make 20 – 10″ finished blocks.

I laid it out on my design wall, stitched it together and added the borders.

I usually meander my quilts on my Nolting mid arm, but this time I decided to quilt each quarter diagonally with all seams going toward the center with my domestic Bernina 570. It seemed like a good idea. I have never tried this on a large quilt. Bear Tracks measures 70″ x 70″. I stitched in the ditch down the center vertically and horizontally. Then corner to center diagonally. Then stitch in 1/2″ increments, first to the left of the center diagonal then to right. I did this in each quarter stopping at the inner border. What I didn’t realize was how much this close stitching would shrink the center of the quilt, making the borders very wavy. I loaded Bear Tracks onto my quilt frame and meandered the borders to try and shrink them down. It helped a little but the edges of my beautiful quilt are wavy. Drat!

Bear Tracks is wavy, but oh so cuddly. I love it! I think I need a quilting class from Joanie Poole!

This quilt was pieced and quilted with Aurifil thread and finished with Hobbs batting.

Click here for Bear Tracks Quilt Supply List .

#islandbatik #aurifilthreads #hobbsbatting #studio180design #debtucker #joaniepoole #cornerpoptool #eightatatime

Magnificent Mini’s

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The products shown in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Our assignment for February was to create a “Magnificent Mini” using any technique we chose. The only criteria was the size: 24″ x 24″ or smaller. It seems I’m always collecting quilt blocks for hearts and Christmas Trees. The first thing I do is fire up my EQ8 and start drawing.

Last year I made a heart mug rug. The drawing above consists of mirror image split rects and two squares that have had the corners popped using Studio 180 Design Split Rects & Corner Pop tools.

These hearts are made from a large flying geese and two smaller flying geese. I used Studio 180 Design’s Wing Clipper I, Tucker Trimmer I & Square/Squared tools. Click here for the fabric requirements for Hearts Abound Mini.

The center block contains:

1 – 6″ finished Square/Squared

4 – 3″ x 6″ finished flying Geese

8 – 1 1/2″ x 3″ flying geese

4 – 3″ finished Half Square Triangles

4 – 2″ x 6 1/2″ red rectangles

4 – 3 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ background rectangles

4 – 3 1/2″ background squares

I added 2″ finished borders with 2″ finished Square/Squared units for the cornerstones. Hearts Abound measures 22″ x 22″.

My Hearts Abound Mini was made from Island Batik fabric, with Hobbs 80/20 cotton batting. Pieced and quilted with Aurifil thread.

#islandbatik #hobbsbatting #aurifilthread #studio180design

Evening Elegance Blog Hop

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This is day 3 of Studio 180 Design’s Evening Elegance Blog Hop. Deb Tucker has launched her own fabulous signature fabric collection, Twilight Chic, with Island Batik and fabric designer Kathy Engle.

Below are the links to everyone participating in the blog hop:

Monday November 5th – Karen Overton – The Quilt Rambler” https://thequiltrambler.com/blog/

Tuesday November 6th – Tammy Silvers – Tamarinis – http://www.tamarinis.typepad.com/

Wednesday November 7th – Jackie OBrien – If These Threads Could Talk – https://ifthesethreadscouldtalk.com/blog-posts/

Thursday November 8th – Tina Dillard – Quilting Affection Designs – http://quiltingaffection.blogspot.com/

Friday November 9th – Studio 180 Design – https://deb-tuckers-studio-180-design.myshopify.com/blogs/news

Check back on Friday to see one version of the Evening Elegance quilt completed. The quilt was designed using BlockBuster Patterns: 1 Ohio Star, 7 Whimsy Turndash, 9 Three in One, 16 Peaks & Valleys, 20 Stellar Collision, 21 Around the Block, 22 Square Dance, 26 Cactus Blossom and 34 Evening Shadow.

I was assigned BlockBuster 9 – Three in One, using the V Block and Tucker Trimmer I tools.

Unit A. V Blocks: Make 4 V Blocks.

Unit C. Quarter Square Triangle: Make a Quarter Square Triangle with the fabrics that match the V Blocks, remember to swirl the center.

Unit B. Combination Units: Combination units begin by making half squares triangles (HSTs). The fabric for the HSTs must match the side triangles in the v blocks, so I began by laying out the starter squares next to the V Blocks and then making them into the combination units.

When making Combination units, you are making two at a time, a left & a right. Choose the units that will match the side triangles in the V Blocks as shown above.

Sew the units into rows then join the rows into the block.

My second BlockBuster was 16 Peaks & Valleys using the Diamonds Rects Tool and V Block Tool & the Sidekick, High Low Technique Sheet.

Unit A. Diamond Rects: Cut your precision diamonds & side triangles per the Diamonds Rects instructions. Stitch opposite side triangles, press toward the side triangles. Stitch the other opposites side triangles.

Make 4 diamond rects units and trim.

Stitch using a partial seam to the center square. Stitch the second diamond rects unit and so on to finish the block center.

Unit B. High Low Left: Following the instruction the in technique sheet cut your squares and trim, add the replacement side triangle. Mark and stitch the square for the low point and trim.

Make four High Low Left Units.

Unit C Sidekick Right: When making a Sidekick Right, position fabrics face down for cutting. Cut and stitch replacement side triangles.

Peaks & Valleys block unit layout.

Stitch units into rows.

Join the rows to complete the block.

I love the Twilight Chic fabrics from Island Batik and I can’t wait to show you one of the finished quilts!

#islandbatik #debtucker #twilightchic #studio180design #blockbusters

New Years Star

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The fabrics featured in this post were given to me by Northcott Fabrics.

This fabulous pattern, “New Year’s Star” by Deb Tucker is fun to make using your V Block & Tucker Trimmer I tools. It can be made in 3 sizes: 50″ x 66″, 66 x 82″ & 82 x 102″. I love pink and aqua & retro fans. I guess you can say the photo above shows my fan club (HAHAHAHA).

I chose 4 fabrics from Northcott’s “Strokes of Brilliance” collection. The colors are so deep and rich.

Pinwheels: Making the pinwheels begins by making half square triangles using the 3″ dark & medium squares. Trim to 2 1/2″ with your Tucker Trimmer. Arrange the trimmed squares into pinwheels.

Use Care Here!. The blocks should spin exactly as shown in the pattern instructions.

V Block High/Low:

I have cut my background squares and side triangles for unit construction.

Following my pattern instructions I trimmed the background square and stitch a side triangle to it.

Press toward the side triangle, add the square to make the second low side triangle and trim.

Trim using the V Bock tool as shown above. Rotate and trim again.

By placing the high/low units around the pinwheels we get a great looking wonky star!

Framed Squares:

Make 8 of these easy framed squares.

Combination Units:

Using the Magic Wand draw 2 diagonal lines on the back of the 5 1/2″ the background squares and align with the medium squares, stitch on lines.

Cut apart and press toward the darker fabric.

Using the Magic wand draw 2 diagonal lines on the back of the half square triangles (HST). Center the HST’s on a dark 5 1/2″ square, stitch on the lines, cut apart & press toward the large triangle.

Trim using your Tucker Trimmer, rotate and trim again.

Each set makes mirror image combination units. Both are used in the pieced inner border. It is a good idea to keep the units organized into left and right groups. You’ll be glad you did.

Lay out your units.

Stitch into rows.

Add your inner borders.

Add your pieced inner borders and your final outer border.

I love the backing too. This quilt was completed with Quilters dream Batting! Thank you Northcott for letting me create with your beautiful fabrics. The description I’ve shared in this post does not answer every question you may have. Please feel free to contact me with questions.

#northcottfabrics #strokesofbrilliance #debtucker #studio180design #tuckertimmer #vblock #newyearsstar

Scrapodopolis – BlockBuster’s #1 – #9

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I just finished my quilt containing Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster patterns #1 through #9! Scrapodopolis seems like a pretty good name.

I used the Tucker trimmer 1, Wing Clipper 1, Square/Squared, V Block & Four Patch Square up tools from Studio 180 Design. I was encouraged by fellow Certified Instructor Sarah Furrer to try a block layout a little outside the box, and I totally did!

This is the layout I chose. I did change it up a little.

My blocks are 12″ when finished. that indicated that my Square/Squared units would finish at 6″. I Needed 16 square/squared units and decided the center squares would be cut from 16 different fabric pulled from the blocks & the side triangles would be the same background fabric used in the blocks. The 3″ rectangles on either side of the square/squared units would match the border fabric. The outer borders would finish at 6″ also. I added a 3″ border outer border to enhance the four square/squared units in the border.

Don’t do what I did. I started in the center and stitched the outer square/squared units to the center blocks, (they had to be un-sewed and sewn to the borders pieces). In each of the corners, I stitched a 12″ block to a square/squared unit & stitched a square/squared unit to a 6.5″ square and then stitched it to the block. The two blocks on either side of the center were stitched to a square/squared unit

This is much better. Now there are 3 rows of blocks in the center ready to be stitched together & the border square/squared units are pieced to the border strips.

Once all the pieces were stitched together I decided I needed to add a 3″ outer border so all the units appear to be floating.

I am so pleased with how it came out! My finished quilt measures 67″ x 67″.

I can’t wait to start the next quilt with BlockBuster #10!

BlockBuster #9 – Three In One

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This block requires your Tucker Trimmer I and V Block tools. BlockBuster 09 Three in One provides 3 different possible block layouts. The block is made up of V Block, Combination & Quarter Square Triangle units. I’m making Block 1 as a 12″ block, with 4″ finished units.

All of the units in these three blocks are the same (and placed in the same location), yet just by rotating the units and changing your fabric placement, you’ll get three very different blocks.

These are my fabric choices. I will be making Block 1. I decided where I wanted my fabrics in the block by looking at the colors in block 1 and assigned my fabric choice for the units.

I need four V Block units with the center triangle cut from the background fabric and the side triangles cut from each of my four fabric colors. For a 4″ finished unit I cut a 5″ WOF strip of the background and each of the four fabric color groups. (check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions and on the tool itself.)

The center unit is a Quarter Square Triangle made from each of the four fabrics. I cut a 5 1/2″ square from each of my four fabrics. ( Check the Size Cutting Chart in the tool instructions.)

The corner units are Combination Units. Each combo unit is made from fabrics that match the side triangles on either side of the V Block units and the background fabric. Cut 2 each 5 1/2″ squares from each of the four fabrics and four 5 1/2″ squares from the background fabric.

V Bock Units

Everything you need to know for making V Block units is in the tool instructions. I’m starting with the V Block center triangles. To cut the center triangles, layer no more than two layers deep. Fold the ends deep enough to accommodate the slanted cut for a 4″ finished unit and finger press it.

Position the tool on the strip so that the dashed line labeled “Fold Line for Center Triangle” is aligned with the fold and the correct size line of the tool is against the bottom edge of the strip. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool and unfold to reveal the center triangle pieces.

Move the cut triangles to the side and flip the strip over from top to bottom. Align the center triangle trim line with the previously trimmed edge and cut your next pair of center triangles. For this block you need four center triangles.

For the Side triangles. place the strips facing each other, either right sides or wrong sides together on the cutting mat. Locate the bold solid line on the tool that reads “Cut Line for Side Triangles”. Position that line against the trimmed end of the strip and the proper size line against the bottom of the strip. Trim along the slanted edge of the tool.

Cut one set from each of the four fabrics.

Lay out the V Block units, making sure you are lining up the long edge of the side triangles with the edges of the center triangle. Position pieces right sides together lining up the slanted cut edges “tip to tip” and stitch one side triangle to the unit. Press toward the side triangle. Position second triangle, stitch & press as shown. Repeat with the other V Blocks.

Lay the V Block unit on the cutting mat with “V” pointing toward you. Lay the tool on the unit aligning the “Finished Size” measurement with the seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. (For left hand cutting directions see tool instructions.)

Lift the tool and rotate the unit. Reposition the tool on top aligning the correct “Cut Size” measurements with the previously trimmed corner and “X” with the sewn seam intersection. Trim up the right side across the top.

Quarter Square Triangle – Center Unit

Check the Size Cutting Chart to determine size of the starter squares. For 4″ finished units cut one 5 1/2″ square from each of the four colors. Make half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of 2 of the fabric squares with your Magic Wand, stitch on the lines and cut apart. Press seams toward the darker fabric. Do Not Trim. Check your fabric placement choices to determine which fabrics to make HST’s out of.

Note: When making half square triangles, combination units and quarter square triangles, you will be making two units at a time. You can make two blocks or save the units for something later.

On the back of one of the HST’s, use your Magic Wand and mark two diagonal lines. Position the HST units right sides together, carefully nesting the sewn seams. Stitch on the lines, cut apart and press swirling the center.

Position your Tucker Trimmer over the pieced unit. Carefully align both the common diagonal and the size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. Lift the Tucker Trimmer tool and rotate the unit. This time be sure to position both the common diagonal, the size diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement desired. Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top.

Combination Units

Check you fabric placement choice to group your fabrics for making the combo units. There are three 5 1/2″ squares (one background & 2 darker fabrics) for each combo unit. Start by making half square triangles (HST) by marking two diagonal lines on the back of one of the darker fabric squares and placing it right sides together with the other dark fabric square. Stitch on the lines and cut apart and press. Do Not Trim. Do this for each color group.

Mark two diagonal lines on the back of one HST. Place one HST on one background square centering it and stitch on the lines.

Cut apart and press toward the large triangle. When you make combination units with this process, you are making mirror image combo units. You will only need one set of combo units for one block. Deb Tucker has a Non Mirror Combo Technique Sheet that shows you how to make only the combo units you need.

Position the Tucker trimmer over the unit, carefully aligning both the common diagonal and the size diagonal with the stitched seams. Right hander’s trim up the right side and across the top, while left hander’s will trim up the left side and across the top. Lift the tool and rotate the unit. This time line up both diagonal lines and the outline to the exact measurement desired and trim as before.

Lay out your units and stitch into rows, pressing as shown.

Stitch your rows to make your block. I now have BlockBuster’s #1 – #9 completed! Time to make a quilt!

Mini Love

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As an Island Batik Ambassador the products featured in this post were given to me by Island Batik.

Do you like mini quilts? Part two of Island Batik’s Ambassador February assignment was to make a mini quilt 24″ square or smaller. I chose a simple block.

I used Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk & Mini Flower Carnation Pink, plus 2 fat quarters from the Galentine Day Bundle, one red for the star points and another red for the border.

I decided to make 4 blocks. Each block has a center square, 4 two color quarter square triangles for the star points and 4 half square triangles. My block units are 2 1/2″ finished, and the block measures 7 1/2″ finished. I decided to start with the half square triangles (HST). For four blocks I would need 16 HST. With my Tucker Trimmer I, I can make two at a time. Deb Tucker has a new Technique Sheet called “Eight at Once”. This technique sheet has a chart that gives you the fabric requirements for oversized HST in 11 sizes. For 16 – 2 1/2″ finished HST I would need two 7″ squares of the Mini Flower Carnation Pink and two 7″ squares of Neutral Buttermilk.

Using my Magic Wand, draw diagonal lines on the wrong side of the lightest fabric. I also marked the vertical halfway mark & the horizontal halfway mark.

Stitch on all four diagonal lines only.

First trim the vertical halfway mark & then the horizontal halfway mark. Then trim in between the stitched diagonal lines. And, all at once you’ve got 8 HST.

Press toward the pink. Do you know that “what ever you are pressing toward…goes on top”? That means lay your units with pink fabric on top. Set your seams, then push over the pink fabric and press.

Lay your unit on the cutting mat. We always trim our units to the cut size. My units are 2 1/2″ finished, that means the cut size is 3″. Find the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer, align the 3″ diagonal line on the HST’s diagonal line and center it. Trim up the right side and across the top. Rotate the unit, align the just trimmed edge with the 3″ clean up line, again align the 3″ diagonal, trim up the right side and across the top. If you are left-handed, position your unit to the left and the whole circle on your Tucker Trimmer would be positioned to the left also. You woud trim up the left side and across the top.

Now we will make our Quarter Square Triangles (QST). I check the chart in my Tucker Trimmer instructions. For 2 1/2″ finished units, my starter squares should be 4″. For all four blocks I need Eight Red 4″ squares & Eight Pink 4″ squares. Using my Magic wand I draw 2 diagonal lines on each pink square. Layer one pink square with one red square aligning the raw edges. Stitch on both diagonal lines and cut apart.

We are going to press toward the red , so lay your units red side up and press as before. Divide your HST’s into two even piles. Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines as shown above on half of your HST’s.

Position one HST marked with the stitch lines with a HST without the stitching lines, right side together, and opposite colors facing each other. Align and nest the center seams.

Stitch on the lines and cut apart. Swirl the center as shown above and press.

Position the Tucker Trimmer over the pieced square. Carefully align both the common diagonal and the 3″ size diagonal lines over the sewn seam lines. Trim up the right side and across the top. Rotate the unit, line up the Tucker trimmer again. This time be sure to position both the diagonal lines and the outline of the square to the exact measurement of 3″, trim up the right side and across the top.

Cut four 3″ red squares for the block centers. Lay out the block as shown above.

Stitch the units into rows, press the seam as shown.

Stitch the rows together and press as shown.

Make all four blocks. I added sashing. I cut two 1 1/2″ x 8″ strips and joined the two blocks on top row, and then the two blocks on the bottom row. I cut three strips 1 1/2″ x 16 1/2″. I joined the top row to the bottom row and added a strip on either side of the square. Cut two strips 1 1/2″ x 18 1/2″ for the top and bottom of the square. Note: Always measure your blocks for accurate sashing measurements.

From another Galentine Day fat quarter I cut 3″ outer borders. I finished it with my Hobbs Cotton Batting. I stitched in the ditch and bound it with some Island Batik Neutral Buttermilk. It was pieced & quilted with Aurifil Mako 50 thread.

This is a sweet simple quilt. Reminds me of Forest Gump, “Life is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re going to get”, these blocks look like nicely wrapped chocolates. Happy February!

BlockBuster #7 – Whimsy Turndash

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I love this block So sweet & easy. All the instructions you will need for BlockBuster # 07 Whimsy Turndash came with your Square/Squared & Tucker Trimmer I tools which are required to make this block. You will also need to reference your Little Houses Technique Sheet.

Whimsy Turndash is made up of 3 different units. Unit A is Square/Squared, one for the block center. Unit B is Little Houses, 4 are needed. Unit C is Half Square Triangles (HST), 4 are needed for the block corners. I made a 12″ finished block containing 4″ finished units.

The Whimsy Turndash supply list (link in the first paragraph above) offers you 3 different layouts and a black line master to play with. I chose 2 colors and a background fabric shown above.

Unit A – Square/Squared: Determine the desired finished size of your unit. Go to the Center Square Section on your Square/Squared Tool. Mine finished size is 4″, The Center Square Sections tells me to cut a strip 3 1/2″ wide.

I already trimmed off the selvage of my 3 1/2″ strip. Place the line for 4″ finished units on the bottom of the strip up against the trimmed end. Trim up the left side and across the top. You now have a perfect precision cut center square for your unit.

On your Square/Squared tool find the Size Chart for Triangles. For 4″ finished units I cut two 3 1/4″ squares and cut them once diagonally.

Center a side triangle over the center square and stitch. Center another side triangle to the opposite side of the center square and stitch. Press toward the side triangle.

Center another side triangle as before and stitch, repeat on the opposite side so all sides of the center square have a side triangle stitched to it, press toward the side triangle.

Position the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool over the pieced unit. Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit. Mine is 4″ finished, so there is a 4 at each corner of the center square. Trim up the right side and across the top. Check your tool instructions for Left handed cutting tool position.

For the second cut Lift your tool & rotate your unit. Position the tool lining up the “X’s” again and lining up the cleanup lines on the tool with edges previously trimmed. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Unit B – Little House: You will need to make 4 Little Houses. Each little house is made up of 3 squares, one large and two small. For a 4″ finished unit cut four 4 3/4″ squares and eight 2 3/4″ squares.

Begin by marking a diagonal line on the back of your small squares, this will be a stitching line.

Note: you may want to mark an additional line 1/2″ from the center diagonal line to use as a secondary stitching line for creating half square triangles out of the left over fabric.

Position one small square in one of the corners of a large square, right sides together, with the marked diagonal line going across the corner of the large square as shown above. Stitch on both lines and trim apart.

Press toward the triangle. Position a second small square in the corner next to corner you just stitched. Stitch on both lines, cut apart press toward the triangle. Press your half square triangles to the dark. The small half square triangles are not used in this unit. If you don’t want to make them for another project just draw the one diagonal line and once it is stitched discard the corner fabric.

Using the Trim Down Section of your Square/Squared tool line up the peak of the House with the “X” corresponding with your finished unit size. Align the seams with the dotted lines extending down from the “X”. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Rotate your Little House around, and line up the two trimmed edges with the cleanup line corresponding to your unit cut size. This time aligning the peak with the “X” at the bottom. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Repeat with the other 3 large squares.

Unit C – Half Square Triangles: We need four Half Square Triangles. Go to the “Starting Square Size Chart” in your Tucker Trimmer instructions. I am making 4″ finished units, so I need to cut two 5″ background squares and two 5″ squares your color of choice.

Use your Magic Wand and draw to diagonal lines on the back of your background squares as shown above.

Place background squares right sides together with your color of choice squares, stitch on the lines, cut apart and press toward the dark fabric.

We always trim our units to the cut size. My HST are 4″ finished and 4 1/2″ cut size. therefore I look for the half circle in the corner of my tool and position the Tucker Trimmer over the unit with the half circle in the upper right hand corner, carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above. Trim up the right side and across the top. If you are left handed, you would position your tool with half circles in the lower left hand corner of the unit.

Rotate your unit and line up the trimmed edges with the corresponding cut size of your unit, and carefully aligning the solid diagonal line with the stitched seam as shown above. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Lay out your completed units. Sew into rows.

This is the back of the block showing how I pressed the seams.

I love the completed Whimsy Turndash and I hope you will too. This is a great block to practice these easy techniques with.

I Love New York OBW #62

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I had a really busy Fall teaching schedule this year. I am so looking forward to 2018. I got a jump start by making a quilt for Granddaughter Bailey’s 19th birthday. She absolutely loves New York City. We have visited there several times and walked from one end of the city to the other. I had this fabric from Timeless Treasures for several years. It just occurred to me that I must have been saving it for Bailey.

It is about 9 degrees in Central NY today. This is my 62nd One Block Wonder.

The back also has a New York City themed fabric. Happy Birthday Bailey!

Deb Tucker had a busy year also, Studio 180 has many new patterns out. I’m working on one now called Whirling Dervish that is so fun. I will be posting about it soon. There are also new Studio 180 Design Technique Sheets to expand our skills.

“Stacked Squares” is a technique that will allow you to make the “Economy” block perfectly every time without using paper foundation piecing. Like all Studio 180 Design processes, you’ll be constructing oversized units and then trimming them down. Above I made a block using the “Stacked Squares” technique sheet and the required Large Square/Squared Tool to make a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square in a square, in a square! Whew!

You have heard of the “Shaded Four Patch”, well here is a sample of what you can do with the “Shaded Nine Patch” units. The Shaded Nine Patch is an amazing unit that has endless possibilities all by itself or it can be combined with other fundamental units to create even more designs. With the Shaded Nine Patch Technique Sheet you can make this unit in 7 sizes.

I made this block using the Bird of Paradise Technique Sheet. This techniques requires the Large Square/Squared tool, it is so very cool. You can make this unit in 6 sizes from 1″x 2″ to 6″ x 12″.

I love this new “Eight at Once” technique sheet! With the Tucker Trimmer I you can make Half Square Triangles (HST) 2 at a time. With this technique you can make 8 HST’s at a time in 11 different sizes! Wowza!

Deb also gave us a new tool, the Four Patch Square Up. Four Patches are basic units that seem so simple to make. Just stitch 4 squares together and you’re good to go. But anyone who attempted these units knows they are notoriously difficult to make. The Four Patch Square Up tool is the solution. The tool’s perfectly engineered lines are designed to quickly locate and align with the unit center and sewn seams, allowing for easy trimming on all four sides. You will be able to make Four Patch Units in 12 sizes!

I played with the Four Patch Square up using Deb Tucker’s BlockBuster #24 Compounding Four block pattern. I love the design it makes when you put 4 blocks together.

I wish you all a Happy & Healthy New Year! Let’s go quilt something!

BlockBuster 5 – Whirligig

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This is a very cool block, but be sure to use your best pressing, measuring and cutting skills as this is a 3 out of 4 stars for difficulty. All the instructions to make this block can be found in the instructions that came with your Wing Clipper I, Tucker Trimmer I and on the Pickets & Quickets technique sheet.

This is a tricky block; you will need to pay attention to your fabric placement and the orientation of your quicket and picket units. To help you out here is link to the Whirligig Black Line Layout you can print this sheet and use your colored pencils to help choose your fabrics and placement.

I chose five colors and a background fabric to make 4 different color units, each containing 2 flying geese, a Picket, a Quicket and a half square triangle.

The 05 Whirligig block can be made in 3 sizes: 6″, 9″ and 12″. I chose the 12″ block. Check the Cutting Chart, and choose the size block you want to make. We will start with the Flying Geese Unit. The cutting chart gives you the finished and the cut sizes of the units. Check your Wing Clipper instructions to see what size starter squares you need to cut. As you know when using the Wing Clipper you start with one large square and 4 small squares.

Following the instructions use your Magic Wand and draw two diagonal lines on the back of your small squares.

Position 2 of the small squares right sides together in diagonally opposite corners of the large square, nudging them in toward the center by just a few threads

Stitch on both drawn lines, them trim between the lines on the center diagonal.

Press the seams toward the smaller triangles. One of these units will make 2 flying geese, the other will be saved to make a left slanted Quicket.

Position one of the smaller squares in the corner of the previously pieced unit. Nudge the square in like you did before. Stitch on the drawn lines and trim between the lines as before.

Press the seams toward the smaller triangles.

Position your oversized unit horizontally on your cutting mat with the goose pointing toward you. Align the diagonal guide lines of the Wing Clipper with the sewn seams of the flying geese unit. Trim up the right side and across the top. (See the Wing Clipper Instructions for left hand cutting.)

Lift your Wing Clipper and rotate your flying geese unit 180 degrees. Reposition your Wing Clipper to align cleanup guidelines with the previously trimmed raw edges and the “X” at the top with the intersection of the seams. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Remember we only used one of the heart shaped units for the flying geese. We will use the other to make our left slanted Quicket. Lay the unit on your cutting mat as shown above. Position your Wing Clipper tool over the unit, the “X” on the tool should align with diagonal seam. I am making a Quicket with a cut size of 4 1/2″ by 2 1/2″, so I positioned my tool to ensure I can trim all four sides.

Trim up the right side then across the top.

Lift your Wing Clipper tool and rotate your unit 180 degrees. Align the trim down lines with the just trimmed raw edges and aligning the long diagonal line on the tool with the single diagonal seam. Trim up the right side and across the top.

The cut size of my right slanted Picket is 2 1/2″ by 4 1/2″. Following the instructions on my Pickets & Quickets Technique Sheet, I bump up the size by 1/4″. My rectangle is 4 3/4″ by 2 3/4″. My small square is 2 3/4″. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the small square.

Position the small square right sides together with the rectangle and align the raw edges. Stitch on the line and trim the excess. Press toward the small triangle.

Position your Wing Clipper tool over the unit, the “X” on the tool should align with diagonal seam. Trim up the right side and across the top.

Follow the instructions that came with your Tucker Trimmer I for making Half Square Triangles (HST) in the size you chose. Using your Magic Wand draw two diagonal lines on the back of one of your starter squares. Place your starter squares right sides together. Stitch on lines and trim down the center. I pressed toward the dark fabric.

Trim the oversized HST to the desired cut size. Mine are 2 1/2″. (See the Tucker Trimmer Instructions for left hand cutting.)

Lift your Tucker Trimmer and rotate the HST 180 degrees position the diagonal line and the outline of the square to the measurement desired and trim up the right side and across the top.

We are now ready to sew this unit together. Layout the 2 flying geese, 1 left slanted Quicket, 1 right slanted Picket and 1 half square triangle as shown above..

First stitch the 2 flying geese together, press in the direct the geese are flying. Then stitch the geese to the right slanted Picket. Press toward the Picket.

Stitch the HST to the left slanted Quicket, pressing toward the Quicket.

Stitch the two sections together.

Repeat the process for each of the other 3 sections. If all of your geese are the same color you can make all your flying geese in sets of four, then make the Pickets & Quickets using the method in the technique sheet. When I stitched the four sections togehter I pressed the seams open to avoid bulk.