Category Archives: Studio 180 Design

Journeys Month 10 – Victory Block: Part 1

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys BOM – Month 10 Victory Block: Part 1. This month you will be using Studio 180 Design V Block tool. Sarah Furrer is my helper this month.

Unit P, V Blocks will be cut from Print 1 & Print 4.

Piecing Instructions

Step 1 – Cut the Center Triangles from Print 4 strips. Lay the strip out and fold over the end of the strip as shown. Position the V Block® tool on the strip so that the Fold Line for Center Triangle is on the fold and the bottom of the strip is lined up with the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool).

Step 1

Step 2 – Cut along the slanted edge of the tool. Unfold the piece to reveal a Center Triangle. Flip the strip top to bottom as shown.

Step 2

Step 3 – Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip, and cut the next triangle.

Step 4 – Continue to cut triangles. Flip the strip, cut a center triangle, flip, and cut again. Continue until you have 52 center triangles total.

Flip the strip.
Line up the Center Triangle Trim Line with the edge of the strip.
Continue to cut triangles.

Step 5 – Position the Print 1 Side Triangle strips wrong sides or right sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Cut Line for Side Triangles line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 5

Step 6 – Rotate the V Block® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the angled edge of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 52 pairs of Side Triangles from Print 1.

Step 6

Step 7 – Lay out the center triangles and the side triangle pairs.

Step 7

Step 8 – Align and stitch one side triangle to the center triangle. Use care to make sure you are lining up the correct edges of both the center and side triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Do this for all center triangles.

Step 8 – this photo shows layering the V Block unit on top of the side triangle
Stitch and press seams open.

Step 9 – Position the remaining side triangles on the other side of the center triangles. Stitch and press the seam open. Repeat for all units

Position remaining side triangles on the other side.
Stitch & press seams open.

Step 10 – Trim the units. Place the V Block unit on the cutting mat right side up with the point of the Center Triangle closest to you. Position the V Block® tool on the unit, aligning the 6” Finished Size measurement with the seam lines. Trim the first two sides of the unit.

Trim up the side and across the top

Step 11 – Rotate the unit 180o and reposition the tool on top, aligning the trimmed edges of the unit with the Cut Size measurement of 6½” and placing the point of the Center Triangle “V” in the “X” at the top of the tool. Trim the remining two sides. Trim all 52 units.

Trim 2 – trim up the side and across the top.
Make 52 Unit P V Blocks

See instructions for left hand cutting. Congratulations, you have learned another new skill and how to use the V Block tool.

Starget

I just finished Studio 180 Design pattern “Starget” by Deb Tucker. This quilt finishes at 88″ x 104″. It requires V Block, Square/Squared, Wing Clipper I & Split Rects tools.

I made this quilt for my sister Mary. She came with me to every doctors appointment and every cancer treatment for nine months. Mary had to wait in the car during these (winter) appointments because of COVID restrictions. She loves this pattern and I was so happy to make it for her.

Radioactive

I obviously can’t get enough of 60 degree triangles. I decided to take a break from One Block Wonders to play with my Star 60 Tool and make Radioactive by Deb Tucker.

Shimmer Radiance

Northcott Fabrics provided me with Shimmer Radiance by Deborah Edwards. These fabrics are so beautiful with a soft luscious hand and saturated colors.

Radioactive uses Star 60 units for 12″ and 6″ triangle blocks. First I cut my side triangles for my 12″ Star 60 units, then the 6″ units.

Then I cut my Diamonds using my Star 60 tool.

6′ & 12″ Star Units

Once I have cut my units for both my star 60 units it is time to construct my units.

Lay out the bright Diamonds and the background side triangles as shown above. Take a triangle from the right hand side and position it on top of the diamond. Match the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond as shown; align the raw edges.

With the diamond on top, stitch along the matched edges. Press seams open.

Position a remaining triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond. Align the raw edges. With the diamond on top; stitch.

Press seams open. Both the 6″ and the 12″ Star 60 units are constructed the same way.

Block Construction

Choose 6 Star 60 units and 3 companion triangles and layout as shown above.

Note: 3 Star 60 units have the diamonds pointing inward and 3 are pointing outward.

Take the 3 Star 60 units that are pointing outward and position them so the raw edge with both side triangles is either by your right hand if you are right handed or left hand if you are left handed. Locate and align the Flat Edge trim lines on the tool with the seams of the diamond and trim.

Position and stitch each of the 3 trimmed Star 60 units with a Companion Triangle. Stitch with the Star 60 unit on top.

Press the seam toward the Companion Triangle or open.

Trim the Companion Triangle. Position the unit on the cutting mat so that for right handers the Companion Triangle is in the 2 o’clock position or 10 o’clock for left handers. Align the point of point of the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the point of the diamond in the Star 60 unit and the 4 1/4″ horizontal guideline on the seam. Trim the triangle.

Trim the 3 remaining Star 60 units (they are pointing inward in the layout). Position the pieced unit right side up on the cutting mat. Align the 4″ Diamond Point Guidelines with the sewn seams. Trim along both sides of the tool.

Sew the top 3 units as shown. Press all seams open.

Stitch the remaining 3 units as shown above.

Sew the top and bottom sections together. Match the center intersection and the raw edges. Press seams open.

Trim 1

Trim the 12” blocks. Position the block on the cutting mat so that one point is away from you and a flat side near you. Align the 4” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seams of the Star 60 unit at the top of the block and the 8” Diamond Point Guidelines with the seam of the Companion Triangle. The 4¼”, 6¼”, and 8¼” horizontal guidelines will align with seams as well. Trim on both sides of the tool. Because the tool is smaller than the block, trim to about the halfway point on each side of the tool.

Trim 2
Trim 3

Rotate the block so that the next untrimmed point is pointing up, realign the same guidelines and trim again. Then rotate the block to trim the final point. Realign the guidelines and clean up the last point.

Follow the pattern instructions for trimming the 6″ blocks.

Align and center each accent Companion Triangle with the 6” pieced block. Stitch with an accurate ¼” seam. Press all seams toward the Companion Triangles.

Layout your triangle blocks.

Stitch triangles into rows, then add the setting triangles on both ends.

Radioactive

I made the lap size Radioactive, measuring 55″ X 75″. Thank you Northcott Fabrics for these beautiful fabrics. Finished with Quilter’s Dream Batting.

Journeys Month 9 – Corner Beam

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven‘s Journeys BOM Month 9. You all have worked so hard. This month you will learn to use your Corner Beam tool. Sue Tucker & Naz are my helpers for Month 9.

You will be working with Print 1, 4 and 11 this month.

Cutting the Center Beams

Step 1 – Stack the 7” center beam squares up to 4 layers deep. Align the Center Beam Trim #1 line on your Corner Beam® tool and the 6” finished unit line (bottom edge of tool) with the raw edges of your stack of squares. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 1

Step 2 – Rotate and cut again. Lift and reposition the Corner Beam® tool, aligning the dashed line labeled Center Beam Trim #2 with the previously trimmed angled edge. Cut again. Do this for all your center beam squares.

Step 2
Step 2

Cutting the Side Triangles

Step 3 – Fold the side triangle strip right or wrong sides together in order to yield mirror images. Trim the selvages and position the Side Triangles Trim #1 line on your strips, lining up the 6” finished unit line (bottom of the tool) with the bottom raw edge of the strip. Cut along the angled edge.

Step 3

Step 4 – Rotate the Corner Beam® tool and position the Side Triangles Trim #2 line on the edge of the strip you just cut, making sure the bottom of your strip is lined up along the second trim line. Cut along the edge. Continue cutting until you have 8 pairs of side triangles from Print 11 and 4 pairs of side triangles from Print 1.

Step 4

Step 5 – Lay out and organize your pieces into the correct positions as shown to ensure you sew the proper sides together.

Step 6 – Stitch the first side triangle to each center beam, making sure you sew the correct triangle edge to the center beam. Press the seams open.

Press seams open

Step 7 – Stitch the second side triangle to the other side of each center beam. Press each seam open

Step 8 – Position the trim down area of your Corner Beam® tool on your unit. Carefully line up the diagonal seam guidelines on the Corner Beam® tool with the diagonal seams of your unit. Trim.

Step 8

Step 9 – Rotate your unit. Align the cleanup lines for the 6½” cut size with the cut edges, the V shaped guideline with the seam intersection, and the tick marks with the seams at the wide end of the beam. Trim. Repeat for all units. Label as indicated in the Unit Summary.

Step 9

Assemble 4 Middle Edge Sections

It is time to assemble the four Middle Edge Sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:

8 Units A from Month 1
8 Units B from Month 2
8 Units D from Month 2
16 Units H from Month 5
16 Units L from Month 8
8 Units M from Month 9

Step 10 – Lay out the units as shown to create the Middle Edge Section.

Step 11 – Stitch the units together into rows. Press the seams open between the units.

Step 12 – Stitch the rows together into the Middle Edge Section. Press the seams open between rows.

Step 13 – Repeat steps 10-12 to make a total of 4 Middle Edge Sections.

Steps 10 – 12
Naz carefully supervised Journey’s Month 9

Make 4 Middle Edge Sections. Congratulations on work well done!

Journeys Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Block of the Month 8 – Uneven Chains 2. I know you all worked so hard last month on your Liberty Stars. You learned how to make Uneven Chains in month 1, so this month should be a breeze. We will again be using the Four Patch Square Up tool.

This month we will be using prints 6, 10 & 11

Piecing Instructions

Step 1 – Stitch your strips together into Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C. Position two strips right sides together and align the long edges. Stitch with your best ¼” seam.

Step 2 – Press your strip sets. In all strip sets, press toward Print 6. A helpful pressing tip: whatever you are pressing toward goes on top.

Strip Set A
Strip Set A make 1 – 2 1/4″ sub-cuts, 16 sub-cuts required.
Strip Set B
Strip Set B make 1 – 2 1/4″ sub-cuts, 16 sub-cuts required.
Strip Set C (stitch strips together)
Strip Set C make 2 – 3 1/2″ sub-cuts, 16 sub-cuts required.

Step 3 – Sub-cut the strip sets using the information in the diagrams above. Make sure to use the correct sub-cut size for the strip set you are working with and cut the correct number of pieces needed.

Step 4 – Lay out the pieces from Strip Set A, Strip Set B, and Strip Sets C as shown. Stitch an A piece to one side of the C piece and Stitch a B piece to the other side. Make sure you sew the correct piece on each side so that it looks like the diagram.

Step 4 – Lay out and stitch

Step 5 – Press the unit so that the seams spin. To spin the seam, lay the last sewn seam east to west on the mat, remove the two or three threads in the center on both sides that run north to south, and press so all the seams go in the same direction.

Step 6 – Trim the unit to size. Position the unit as shown on your cutting mat and locate the circle for the 3” finished size on your Four Patch Square up® tool. The finished sizes are located above the words Finished Size Four Patches – Center. Position the circle over the seam intersection between the small and large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines radiating from the circle align with your seams.

Trim the first two sides of the unit.

Step 7 – Rotate the unit 180 degrees. Align the 3” finished size circle over the other intersection of the small square and the large square as shown. Make sure that the dashed lines align with your seams and that the 6½” cut size clean up lines align with the outside trimmed edges. Trim the remaining two sides. Once all 16 units are made, label them Unit L.

Congratulations, you’ve completed month 8 and I’ll bet you are even more comfortable using the Four Patch Square Up tool.

Remember, you can go back and search for any of the Journey’s posts, they are never deleted and I’m always available for questions.

Flowers of the Sun – OBW #84 & the Diamond Four Patch Wedge

Continuing my journey to create interesting embellishments for my hexagon and octagon One Block Wonders (OBW’s). I created fabulous stars using Studio 180 Design’s Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet and the Wedge Star Tool.

Flowers of the Sun by South Sea Imports

Once again I went to my OBW stash, I’ve had this beautiful large large print for at least 10 years. When I showed it to my friend Sue Tucker she immediately suggested Aqua stars be added.

Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite

I went to my Joen Wolfrom Color Wheel. To find a complimentary color look directly opposite. For Orange/Red it is Aqua/Blue. Groovy Seam Rippers are my favorite.

I could have chosen several values of aqua, but I decided to use two.

I was lucky to find Kona Cotton Paprika for my star side triangles. The Diamond Four Patch Wedge Technique Sheet gives you instructions for making this block in 22 sizes from 6″ to 48″ finished blocks. I decided that I wanted several size stars in my OBW. My octagons are 6″ finished blocks. Therefore, I would choose size variations in multiples of 6″. I made a 24″, 18″ 12″ and three 6″ finished blocks.

Step 1 – Make strip sets. I chose to make my Inner Diamond & Outer Diamonds the same color. See the Diamond Four Patch Technique Sheet for making strip sets A & B.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other. Make sure both sets are right sides down. Use the Wedge Star tool to get the 45 degree angle.

Make the first cut.

From the first cut, cut angled sections the same width as the cut size of the diamond strip.

You’ll need 8 angles “A” & 8 angles “B” sections for each star.

Pair a section “A” with a section “B”
Mark seam intersection

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure that the inner and outer points are oriented correctly. On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams.

Position the pieces so that the intersections of the marked lines and the seams match. Pin and stitch.

Stitch
Press your seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer points using the Wedge Star tool. Consult the chart for the line needed, and position the line on the seam of the outer point only, trim each side.

Step 5 – Add the small wedges to the out points that you just trimmed. See the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 3 for “Cutting the Small Wedges”.

Layout the small wedges and the Diamond Four Patches.

Stitch the right wedges first. For complete instruction on “Piecing the Diamond Wedges” see the Wedge Star tool instructions, page 4.

Diamond Four Patch Wedge
18″ Diamond Star Wedge

Step 6 – Trim the pieced wedges using the Wedge Star tool. For finished stars up to 24″, align the desired finished block size line with the outer point.

Step 7 – Assemble and trim the block according to steps 1.12 through 1.18 in the Wedge Star tool Instructions.

As before, I marked the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams and pinned before stitching. Stitch 2 Diamond Four Patch Wedge together. Remove the dog ears and sliver trim the Wedge pair by placing on the mat Righties orient the pair so the 90 degree corner is in the upper right, lefties position it so the 90 degree corner is in the upper left. Align the common diagonal on your Tucker Trimmer with the seam to trim the dog ears and true up the 90 degree angle.

Tucker Trimmer I

Tucker Trimmer III

Flowers of the Sun measures 65″ X 77″.

Journeys Month 6 – Corner Section

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 6 – Corner Section. My helper for Month 6 is Sue Tucker, of Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make the Square/Squared unit using the Square/Squared tool. You will be using Prints 1, 2 & 5. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.

Piecing Instructions

Diamond Squares

Step 1 – Lay your Print 1 strip on the mat and clean up the short edge. Locate the Center Square window template for a 6” finished unit. Place the solid lines of the window template on the raw edges of the strip end. Cut up the side and across the top to trim each square to a precision size. Cut 4 center squares.

Step 2 – Stitch two Print 2 side triangles to opposite sides of the center square. Stitch with the center square on top. Press the seams toward the side triangles.

Step 3 – Stitch one Print 2 side triangle to one remaining side of the center square and a Print 5 triangle to the other side. Press the seams toward the side triangles.

Step 4 – Trim to 6½” with your Square Squared® tool. Align the X’s labeled 6 with the seam intersections and the dashed lines with the seams. Trim. Rotate the unit 180o and align the seam intersections with the X’s labeled 6. Also align the cut edges with the 6½” clean up lines. Trim again. Repeat steps 1-4 to make a total of 4 Diamond Square units. Label the finished Units J.

Below is a correction. The original photo for the second trim showed the Left Hand Trim for Trim 2. I do not have the original fabric so I remade the Square/Squared unit from stash fabric.

Trim 1
Trim 2
Make 4 Unit J

Assemble Four Corner Sections

It is time to assemble the four corner sections of your quilt. To do this you will need the following:

8 Unit A’s from Month 1. 8 Unit C’s from Month 2. 24 Unit E’s and 24 Unit F’s from Month 3. 4 – G Blocks from Month 4. 4 Unit H’s from Month 5. 4 Unit J’s from Month 6.

Step 5 – Lay out the gathered units as shown to create one corner section.

Step 6 – Stitch the Unit F Flying Geese together to create the rows of geese. Press the seam away from the point of the goose. Attach Unit J to the end of the Unit E Geese as shown in the diagram.

Step 7 – Sew together Unit C, Unit A, and unit H as shown to create two sections and press as indicated.

Step 8 – Sew Block G, together with the two sections you just created as shown and press as indicated.

Step 9 – Sew the Flying Geese rows to the block and press as shown.

Step 10 – Repeat steps 5-9 to make a total of 4 Corner Sections.

Congratulations! You have learned to use the Square/Squared tool, not mention you are half way through your Journeys Quilt.

Sensational Squares with the Square/Squared Tool

I just finished quilting “Lion Eyes” Octagonal One Block Wonder. I had 18 Sensational Squares sets left over.

Remember, Sensational Squares are the triangles that fill the space between the octagons.

I wanted to add the left over Sensational Squares to the borders of the quilt.

I made my Sensational Squares into Square/Squared units using my Studio 180 Design Square/Squared tool.

There are 3 parts to this tool.

The Center Square Section, which gives you a series of squares that are precisely drafted so that their diagonal measurement is exactly the finished size of the Square²™ unit.

The Trim Down Section gives you guide lines to align with the seams of the pieced Square²™ unit so you can trim each to a precise size with a proper ¼” seam allowance on all sides.

The Size Chart for Triangles gives the recommended size squares to cut that when cut in half diagonally will yield two slightly oversized triangles for constructing the unit.

Note: The fabric in the photo is different from the Lion Eyes.

Per my Wedge Star Instructions I had cut my Large Wedges from 4″ strips and my Corner Squares from 3″ strips (you must have at least 4 aligned repeats). Cut 3″ square sets.

Cut your square sets once diagonally.

Each stack of 4 half square triangles will give you one 4 Patch Posie.

Stitch 2 triangles together and press the seams the same way on both halves.

The seams will nest when stitching the halves together.

Swirl the seams and press.

Use your Square²™ ruler to precision cut your center squares from your 4 Patch Posie. I lined up the diagonal line on the tool with the diagonal seam centering the lines for a 4″ finished square making sure I had fabric to trim on all 4 sides. Trim up the side and across the top. Rotate the unit lining up the just trimmed sides with the size lines and the diagonal line with the diagonal seam and trim up the side and across the top. The Square²™ unit looks great with a fussy cut square in the center or simply cut chosen fabric as usual. Just remember that this square will be diagonal in the pieced unit.

The 4 Patch Posie is now trimmed and ready for oversized triangles.

Check the chart on the Square/Squared Tool for strip size to cut squares for side triangles. I’m making 4″ finished units so I cut my strips from a folded strip 3 1/4″ wide.

Cut once diagonally.

Position two triangles on opposite sides of the center square. No need to fuss with matching the middles as the triangles are larger than they need to be. Just basically center them and try to keep the raw edges aligned.

Press seams away from the center square.

Position remaining two triangles on the remaining two sides of the center square. Again, don’t fuss too much with aligning the centers, just get them close. Stitch and press the triangles away from the center square.

Ready for the trim.

Position the Trim Down Section of the Square²™ ruler over the pieced unit. Focus on aligning the “X’s” for your particular finished size unit over the sewn seams. If they do not line up exactly, simply center the ruler over the area by finding the middle ground of all four marks. Trim up the side and across the top. For the second cut, rotate the unit, position the ruler on top of unit again lining up the “X’s”, and also lining up the cleanup lines on the ruler with the edges previously trimmed.

This ensures that you end up with a square that has proper ¼” seams on all sides and is exactly the correct size to use in your quilt project. I added 1″ strips to two sides of the units to make the units measure 4 1/2″ by 6 1/2″. I did this so when I add the binding I won’t lose the points on my square/squared unit. Measuring the correct lengths I cut the 6 1/2″ strips to add to my border additions.

The Square/Squared tool makes finished diamond in square units in six sizes from 1″ to 6″. If you require mores sizes you can purchase the Large Square/Squared Tool which can make them in sizes from 1″ to 12″.

Rainbow Kitty OBW #82 & the Star 60 Tool

The official name for this quilt is Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty. This quilt was made with love for my Granddaughter Sam. It was supposed to be finished for Christmas but it is in time for my special Valentine.

Panel by Chong-A-Hwang for Timeless Treasures

Why did I choose 5.5″ Finished Hexagons?

This panel measured 23 inches wide. I chose 5.5″ (Cut my strips 3.5″) finished hexies because 4 X 5.5 = 22″. Now I only have trim 1/2″ from both sides and my hexies will fit along the bottom and the top of the panel.

Checkerboard 60

I wanted to add a large star to my design. Using my Star 60 Tool and Checkerboard 60 Technique Sheet I was able to make a great star.

I began by deciding on what size to make my star. I wanted it twice as big as my 5.5″ finished hexies, hmmm, that means an 11″ finished star. The Checkerboard Technique sheet makes beautiful stars in 17 sizes from 2″ up to 18″ in 1″ increments. I needed to make 5.5″ Finished units. I followed technique sheet instructions for a 6″ Finished Units and will trim them so they would finish at 5.5″ units.

Step 1 – Make two strip sets.

Step 2 – Layer the strips sets one on top of the other right sides down. Using the Star 60 tool and a regular ruler establish the 60 degree angle.

From the first cut, cut additional angled sections the same width as the as the cut size of the diamond strips.

Step 3 – Pair each “A” section with a “B” section. Make sure the inner and outer diamonds are oriented correctly. The pink diamonds will be the inner part of my star. The outer diamonds are yellow.

Mark 1/4″ seam allowance using the Magic Wand.

On the edges you will be stitching together, mark the 1/4″ seam allowance across the seams on the wrong side.

Pin section A & B

Stitch your section “A” with Section “B” units.

Press the seams open.

Step 4 – Trim the outer diamond using the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the Outer Diamond Trim Guidelines for a 5″ finished unit.

First cut.

Continue cutting side triangles.

Step 5 – Add the side triangles.

Layout the right side triangles.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the diamond. (Whatever you are pressing toward, goes on top.)

Layout the left side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

After it is stitched, but before you press, trim the unit as shown above to remove bulk.

Press toward the side triangle.

Step 6 – Trim the pieced Star 60 unit suing the Star 60 tool. I trimmed using the 5″ finished unit guidelines.

Step 7 – Describes the trimming the final edge. I did not complete this trim. Remember, I need an 11″ finished star, which means I need 5.5″ finished units. I accomplished this by trimming the diamonds per the 5″ guidelines. I created an 11″ finished star by NOT trimming the outer edges of the star.

Layout your diamond units.

Stitch your diamond units together creating two halves.

Making Star 60’s – To make 5.5″ finished Stars, I am following the cutting instructions for 3″ Finished Units. Remember, the chart refers to UNITS not to Finished Stars! To use the chart, first determine the desired finished size of your unit, then follow the row across for the strip size for the shape you want to cut.

Cutting the Diamonds – I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units. Trim one short edge at a 60 degree angle as shown above. Locate the Diamond Sub-Cut Guideline in the chart which for 3″ finished units is 4″. Align those guidelines with the raw edges of the strip and the angled cut just made as shown in the diagram. Cut along the leading edge of the tool to create oversized diamond shapes.

Cut your side triangles. For 3″ finished units the side triangle strips are 2 1/2″.

Layout the right side triangle.

Position the side triangle on top of the diamond, matching the flat corner to the edge of the diamond.

Stitch with the diamond on top.

Press toward the Diamond. Layout the remaining side triangle.

Position the the remaining side triangle on the other side of the diamond point. Align the flat corner of the triangle with the edge of the diamond, aligning the raw edges as before.

Trim the bulk as shown above.

Press toward the side triangle.

I followed the cutting instructions for 3″ finished units, BUT I’m making 5.5″ finished stars, so I’m trimming the Diamond Point using the 2 1/2″ guidelines. I do not trim the outer edges of the unit to obtain a 5.5″ finished star.

Star 60 Units

Stitch units into two halves.

Designing With the Hexagons

The final layout

After I numbered my rows, I stitched the four rows above the checkerboard star into two rows, and the same with the four rows under the checkerboard star as shown in photo 1. Photo 2 shows stitching the top and bottom row to the checkerboard star halves. Photo 3 shows the two rows joined together.

Continue to stitch rows into 4 sections, Left, Right, Top & Bottom.

I placed the bottom section right sides together to verify how much I need to trim off the sides of the panel so it will be the same width as the top and bottom hexies. In this case I trimmed 1/2″ off both sides.

You can choose to attach either the top or bottom hexies first. I chose the bottom because I wanted to control where the hexies attached to the bottom of the panel. After the hexies are laid out and stitched together we loose 1/4″ between them. I felt I could safely loose a couple of inches off the top of the panel without affecting the design. But I did not want to loose inches off the panel bottom.

I pressed the bottom hexies under 1/4″ and top stitched them to the panel.

Match up the hexies/dog ears of the left side with hexies/dog ears on the bottom. Stitch leaving about 12″ from the top of the panel.

Place the panel and partially stitched left side on a table and place the top hexies on top of the panel matching up the dog ears to establish where the top hexies will be stitched to the panel.

Pin top to the panel being sure the dog ears match up to the left side hexies.

Top Stitch the top hexies to the panel. Finish stitching the left side to the panel and top hexies.

Match up the dog ears of the right side and stitch.

Samantha’s Rainbow Kitty, measures 75″ X 70″. I will quilt it as soon as the backing arrives.

Journeys Month 5 – Homeward Bound

Welcome to Stitchin Heaven’s Journeys Month 5. My helper for Month 5 is Deb Tucker, of Studio 180 Design. This month you are going to learn to make Lemoyne Star Quarters using the Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star and Tucker Trimmer I tools. You will be using Prints 7, 9 & 11. Label your fabrics and use your best cutting skills when cutting your starter squares.

Piecing Instructions

Step 1 – Organize Strips. Place Print 9 and Print 7 into two separate piles. Use Print 7 to make the A Strip Set and Print 9 to make the B Strip Set.

Step 2 – Make Strip Sets A and Strip Sets B in the same manner as described in the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star basic instructions. Position each diamond strip 4¾” down from the top of the background strip. Sew the strips lengthwise and press as indicated in the diagram below. Pay close attention to proper strip alignment and pressing to ensure success.

Step 3 – First Cuts. Layer Strip Set A and Strip Set B right sides together as illustrated. Trim the ends of the strips at a 45° angle, then continue making 45° angle cuts every 3¼” across the length of the strips. You will get 8 cuts from a paired strip set. Cut the remaining strip sets in this manner until you have 20 pairs.

Step 4 – Make Second Cuts going vertically south to north, as shown. Position the ruler edge at the tip of the star strip and trim straight up. These triangles will be added to the pieced unit.

Jackie’s Tip for staying organized is to label two paper plates A & B. For Right handers, Strip “A” is on top & Strip “B” is on the bottom. Cut one unit at a time, place the “A” unit on plate marked “A” & the “B” unit on plate marked “B”. You will always know which units are A & B for pressing.

Step 5 – Arrange, position and stitch the cut pieces together into pieced triangle units. Press as shown in the diagram to yield future nesting seams.

You can chain stitch your “A” and “B” units for easier pressing
Press “A” units toward the Star Point
Press “B” units toward the side triangle

Tip: Remember “whatever you are pressing toward – goes on top”!

Step 6 – Trim down all pieced triangle units using the 12” line on the Rapid Fire® Lemoyne Star tool as shown in the diagram.

Step 7 – Assemble quarters. Arrange the sewn and trimmed A and B sections into quarter blocks. Stitch the sections together and press the seams open to best distribute bulk. You should have 20 quarter blocks total.

You can choose to press your seams open or…
You can choose to press the seams so they are all going in the same direction.

Step 8 – Trim the quarters to 6½” x 6½” with your Tucker Trimmer® I tool. Clean up the dog ears and true up the first corner as shown (this should just be a few threads at most), then rotate the unit 180o to trim the opposite corner. Align the Common Diagonal with the seam and the 6½” clean up lines with the trimmed edges to trim the remaining two sides. Repeat for all 20 quarters. Label the finished quarters Unit H.

First Trim
Second Trim

Recap: Make 20 Unit H – Homeward Bound Units.

Homeward Bound, Unit H

Congratulations, you have learned to use your Rapid Fire Lemoyne Star tool!